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Sitting atop a limestone column, I watch the sun set into a sea of crystal-clear turquoise, and vow to stay until I can see fish dancing among the urchins in the moonlight. My stomach has other plans. Its hungry grumble is soon interrupted by the chimes of a 15th-century cathedral that dominates Old Town Korcula. I follow the narrow cobblestone streets that, together, form the shape of a fishbone. Once again, I'm struck by the architecture--this whole town was designed to invite a cooling breeze in the summer, while curtailing the harsh winter winds. Arriving in the square, I ask a local man, "Can you recommend a restaurant?" He delights at my accent. "Where are you from?" "California." He takes my hand. "Come here! There's someone you have to meet!" We burst into a cafe, where a woman and her child are preparing sardines. "Eva, meet Antonio. Antonio, Eva is from California!" Antonio proudly demonstrates the English he's learned in school: he is in third grade, he has three siblings, and he loves pizza. Soon, Luka interjects. "Let's continue the conversation at my house!" With that, the four of us are back on the cobblestone. Two shadows approach in the darkness, and Luka calls, "Ivan! Marko! Get a baguette and some tomatoes, then come to my house!" A block later, more shadows appear. Luka beckons, "Petra! Nika! Get some wine, and come to my house!" Then, again: "Gabriel! Fran! Bring some beef to my house!" It is the original crowdsourcing. When we arrive, there is already meat on the grill, and everyone is chattering away. Between wild charades and bouts of laughter, I sample wine, freshly-baked bread, and juicy meat platters. When Luka offers the last bowl of lamb stew, I thank him, but he kindly corrects me: "Don't say, `Thank you.' Say, `It is delicious!'" After food comes guitars, then stars. As the party winds down, Luka suggests I stay the night with Antonio and his mother. "You'll see why." Dropping my bags in their "guest" room (which looks suspiciously like a child's room), I open the heavy wooden shutters--to reveal the best view of the cathedral in the city! From my bed, I see the sea, the stars and the clock tower as I drift to sleep. Until-- BONG! BONG! As I recover from my predawn heart attack, Antonio clambers in and bolts the shutters. Now I realize why they're so heavy. The next morning, Luka asks how I enjoyed my night. Beaming, I exclaim, "It was delicious!"