Explore Caribbean

Visiting El Yunque National Forest in Puerto Rico

Thu, 11 Aug 2022 21:54:53 GMT

El Yunque, the lush green rainforest on the northeastern coast of Puerto Rico, is one of my favorite places in the world. Coquíes (a tiny frog whose call sounds like coh-qui) serenade you along the winding roads of Río Grande that lead to the rainforest. You can't help but admire the palm trees, the pops of color from the bird of paradise flowers, and the darting hummingbirds. Entering El Yunque immediately gives me a sense of peace.

The rainforest was severely damaged in September 2017 by Hurricane María, and it took several years for the park to reopen. Many of the scars of María are still here. Visitors should check the current conditions as some trails are temporarily closed. Here are some tips on how to best prepare for your visit.

Getting there and making reservations
Visiting El Portal de Yunque
El Yunque trails and hikes
Eco-conscious accommodations at El Yunque
Community experiences at El Yunque

Getting there and entering the park

Getting to El Yunque is straightforward by car, and as public transportation is impossible, a rental car is the best bet if you want to explore on your own. Located in the municipality of Río Grande, it’s an hour's drive east from San Juan.

As of August 2024, reservations are no longer required to enter the park. Entry is on a first-come, first-served basis, and there is no fee, but keep in mind there is limited parking at the main recreation area.

If you're interested in a private tour or guided hike, the park offers a list of authorized tour operators.

Visiting El Portal de Yunque

I recommend starting your visit to El Yunque by visiting El Portal, the visitor area that reopened in January 2022. As well as information and exhibitions about El Yunque, there are forest rangers on staff that can answer any questions. Given the constant changes with the trails and roads, going over a map with the rangers is a good idea, even if this is not your first visit to El Yunque. They can also tell you about each trail's length and challenge level so you can plan your experience.

The view from El Portal de Yunque. Image credit: Jessica van Dop DeJesus

The space is modern and airy, surrounded by rainforest vegetation. One of the things that caught my eye was the many breadfruit trees I saw during my visit. Breadfruit (pana) is a popular ingredient in Puerto Rican food, and I was delighted that I could order tostones de pana (fried breadfruit) with my lunch at the El Portal restaurant. It's the ultimate forest-to-plate experience. The cost to enter El Portal is $8 per adult but note that there are several ways you can qualify for free entry.

El Yunque trails and hikes

El Yunque has 24 miles of recreational trails for all levels. Due to weather and trail conditions, they are subject to closures. Check this page for a complete list of trails and their availability. Here are currently available trails I find particularly worthwhile:

El Angelito Trail: this trail takes you to the natural pool created by the Mameyes River in just 20 minutes. It’s an easy hike, perfect for those traveling with a family.

Britton Trail and Tower: this challenging trail takes you on a steep walk through the Cloud Forest (take a right towards Mount Britton Tower) or go straight or left to continue on to El Yunque Peak. On a clear day, you can see a stunning view of the Northeast coast of Puerto Rico. (Note: the trail is open but the road segment towards the tower and the tower itself are currently closed for construction.)

La Coca Trail: one of the most challenging trails at El Yunque is only 1.8mi but mostly uphill. Given that it’s a tough trail, it’s less crowded, and you’ll encounter some swimming holes and small waterfalls along the way. Make sure you prepare with water, proper clothing, and sturdy shoes if you plan to take this trail, and stay on the trail, as it is easy to get lost.

Juan Diego Trail: this easy trail has a surprise at the end: a waterfall. It's only .125mi long and relatively flat, perfect for families and those with mobility issues

View from the top of Britton Tower. Image credit: Getty Images / Jennifer Blount

Eco-conscious accommodations at El Yunque

Currently, camping is not permitted at El Yunque due to damage from Hurricane Maria, but there are plans to open camping facilities in the future. However, Yuquiyú farm, located at the foothills of El Yunque, offers eco-friendly treehouses with rainforest views.

If you're looking for a group retreat, consider Casa Alternavida, located only 15 minutes from El Yunque. It provides a series of group events focusing on the healing powers of the nature of El Yunque and its surroundings.

If you want a traditional hotel experience, the Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico is a newly renovated resort with eco-conscious features like a hydroponic farm (currently being built), reusable water bottles throughout the property, and installing solar power in the near future.

Planning a trip to Puerto Rico? Find out how travel insurance can cover medical emergencies, lost or stolen baggage, or other travel mishaps.

Community experiences at El Yunque

If you want to volunteer at El Yunque, check out Love in Motion, a non-profit that focuses on conservation throughout the island. Love in Motion organizes a 7-hour trail maintenance experience. Visit their website for the schedule and details about the cleanup.

You can also support community group, Grupo Conciencia, through its Adopt a Coquí Program in partnership with Discover Puerto Rico. A donation of $25 will allow you to symbolically “adopt” one of the iconic frogs. Coquí adopters will receive a keepsake adoption certificate for their contribution to supporting conservation, sustainability, and climate resilience efforts by the organization.

A coqui frog. Image credit: Getty Images / Kevin Schafer

Things to Do in Barbados Beyond the Resorts

Mon, 24 Jan 2022 19:42:59 GMT

Upon my slow descent into Barbados, I’m filled with anticipation for the month ahead. My rental is situated in Saint James Parish, 5mi (8km) from the capital Bridgetown. On arrival, I’m keen to connect with the local community, an anchor to keep me from all-inclusive this and all-inclusive that. To do that, my landlord recommends I join a local running group. It isn’t my usual idea of an island holiday activity, but I feel open to something new. I’d never heard of the Hash House Harriers before, and it just so happens they are hosting a run and dinner this afternoon. I dig out my running shoes and make my way to nearby St Thomas parish in time for their Christmas soirée.

The Hash House Harriers (or Hash for short) is an international, social running club. Members affectionately call it “a drinking club with a running problem” because when you’ve completed the set course, ranging from 3mi (5km) to 6mi (10km), a small bar is waiting for you at the end. The concept dates back to British civil servants in 1938 Malaysia who were seeking a way to work off a hangover. Something tells me the Brits didn’t have melodic calypso tunes, an ice cream van, and a well-stocked bar waiting for them at the end like I do.

The Christmas feast is a sumptuous affair. All the Caribbean classics are presented in potluck style on a Christmas-themed tablecloth. Fish cakes, macaroni pie, grilled potatoes, and coleslaw are on offer, as well as cou-cou (made from corn meal and okra), a Bajan (Barbadian) specialty. What surprises me most about the group – made up predominately of locals – is their warmth and blithe acceptance of newcomers. My new Hasher friend Sam offers an abundance of insider tips, and I appreciate that getting to know the locals will make my time on the island even more memorable.

The brand-new republic of Barbados
Sustainable ways to experience the real Barbados

The brand-new republic of Barbados

On the easternmost point of the Caribbean chain, Barbados has a population just shy of 300,000, and the locals speak a Bajan dialect of English. There is little information about the Arawaks, the indigenous people of the island, but today, Barbados is predominately (94%) home to Afro-Caribs. After three centuries of colonization by the British, Barbados gained full independence in 1966 and transitioned to a republic at the end of 2021.

Surfing at Freight's Bay. Image credit: Lexi Connors

Barbados is home to thriving fishing and agriculture industries, but a deeper look into the economy revealed that tourism makes up 40% of GDP and employs 30% of its workforce. This news should influence any visitor to make conscious choices about the power of their dollar – particularly if considering an all-inclusive trip, where the majority of spend could be leaked out to foreign interests through various stakeholders. I got a first-hand look at this on a quick trip to Carlisle Bay, where beach club wristbands were currency and offshore conglomerates were cashing in.

Sustainable ways to experience the real Barbados

With the goal of supporting the local community, I set out to find activities that didn’t involve a beach club or resort. Not to say I don’t enjoy the beach, quite the contrary. There are more than 80 stunning beaches in Barbados and to describe the color of each requires the thickest of thesauri. I was thrilled to learn that there are no private beaches in Barbados, and all allow for public access.

Surf with Hawkbill sea turtles at Freight’s Bay

For this activity, I rented a board from Ride the Tide (they also run surf lessons) and by the time I’d paddled out, I’d already sighted a few turtles. Surfing alongside them was an experience I will never forget.

Catch a drag show at Ragamuffins in Holetown

Nothing screamed Christmas more to me than Mariah Carey tunes, sequins, and a pink wig. The hour-long show starts at 9pm, but you can also dine at Ragamuffins before it starts. Expect high energy and multiple costume changes.

Watch the West Indies play cricket on home soil

Bajans are crazy for cricket – it’s like a pseudo religion. During a match, local fans lead the cheer with calypso musicians helping to stir up the crowd. I bought fish cakes, a Banks beer, and a sorrel-flavored icy pole to eat during the game at Kensington Oval, thanks to Sam’s wise suggestions.

Watching cricket at Kensington Oval. Photo credit: Lexi Connors

While away an afternoon at an authentic rum bar

There are more than 1,500 local rum bars scattered throughout the island – they serve as a place for locals to gather and socialize. If you hear a loud SLAP, that’s just a friendly game of dominoes (almost as popular as cricket). A small bottle of rum should cost approx. US $10 / BBD $21 and while the locals wouldn’t dare mix it with soda, you can buy that too. I visited one in Bathsheba, 10mi (17km) from Bridgetown by local bus. The bus ride back was a little blurrier, I assure you.

Sample the local baked goods

The island’s best sourdough loaves and croissants come from Cliff Bakery. On Sundays, you can find its mobile van at Holders House organic farmer’s market – but go early, they sell out fast. If I close my eyes, I can still hear the crackling, crispy outer crust from that first bite. While you’re in the area, peruse the local handicrafts nearby – Barbados has a thriving pottery scene.

Catch a movie at the Globe Drive-In

In Christ Church, 5.5mi (9km) from Bridgetown, outdoor films are accompanied by a warm breeze and swaying palms. Wednesday to Sunday nights, simply tune your radio to the drive-in station, tilt back your seats, and watch the big screen.

Sail around the island

Cruising on a catamaran is a gloriously relaxing way to see the island. Before I booked my tour, I sought out an operator that’s managed by local entrepreneurs. Having a jovial dance with the crew at the end was a massive highlight.

Volunteer your time

There are plenty of volunteering opportunities in Barbados, such as tree planting or joining a local beach clean-up. There are also two animal sanctuaries, Ocean Acre or Ark Animal Welfare, that welcome volunteer dog walkers or marketing and maintenance experts who can lend a hand.

Ditch the rental car and join a local hiking group

A running group might not be for everyone, but that doesn’t mean you should miss out on the spectacular scenery. The local hiking group is free, but donations are welcome.

7 Things to Know Before Visiting Puerto Rico

Wed, 17 Mar 2021 01:08:15 GMT

I grew up in Puerto Rico, in a small town called Guayama, on the island's southern coast. Although I travel every year back to La Isla del Encanto – the island of enchantment, as it's fondly called – I never tire of exploring the island and finding new experiences. Puerto Rico is known for its beaches, but there is so much more to see and do here. Here are some of my suggestions on how to make your trip an unforgettable one.

Rent a car and explore beyond San Juan
Plan a Sunday of chinchorreo in the countryside
Discover the two outer islands (Vieques and Culebra)
Go on a guided hike at El Yunque National Forest
Explore the southern coast of Puerto Rico
Experience the Caribbean and the Atlantic Ocean in one day
Learn about Afro-Puerto Rican culture in Loiza

Rent a car and explore beyond San Juan

Yes, San Juan is beautiful, but there is a lot more to Puerto Rico. Although the island is fairly small, roughly 110mi (175km) wide by 35mi (55km) long, each geographical region offers something unique. Drive along the east coast to relax at beaches such as Luquillo Beach and Seven Seas. For an adventure, I love navigating the winding roads of Route 10 or Route 149 through the Cordillera Central, the mountain chain that crosses the island from East to West. I always keep my eyes open for waterfalls alongside the road, making for the perfect photo op.

Along the roads, many vendors sell fresh fruit, frituras (fritters filled with meat or seafood), or a pincho (kebab) of savory grilled pork, and even tiburón (shark). One of my favorite island road-trip activities includes buying a cold coconut, drinking the water, and asking the vendor to cut it in half so I can indulge in the delicious pulp.

Plan a Sunday of chinchorreo in the countryside

Puerto Ricans love to party. There's nothing we enjoy more than spending time with friends and family, listening to upbeat music, and eating good food. Chinchorreo takes place mostly on weekends, and it consists of going to a dedicated road, mainly in the countryside, and hopping from vendor to vendor. These days you can find chinchorreo routes everywhere across the island. For example, the town of Ciales in north-central Puerto Rico has become a popular spot for this activity. You’ll see venues such as Casa Vieja teeming with people, live music, and locals sipping on their parcha (passion fruit) mojitos.

Chinchorreo at Casa Vieja in Ciales. Image credit: Jessica van Dop DeJesus

For the quintessential chinchorreo experience, head to an area called Guavate in the town of Cayey, in southeastern Puerto Rico. On weekends, the place comes to life with live bands and lechoneras, restaurants dedicated to cooking whole roasted pigs with sides of rice, stewed root vegetables, and fried plantains. I grew up not too far from here, and this was a monthly weekend outing for our family.

Discover the two outer islands (Vieques and Culebra)

An archipelago of several islands and cays, the territory of Puerto Rico contains two habited islands besides the main island: Vieques and Culebra. These tiny islands are sparsely populated, making them ideal for a secluded getaway. Instead of large resorts, there are small hotels, guesthouses, and vacation rentals, which give it a more intimate feel.

Culebra is home to Playa Flamenco, one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. With its white, sandy beach and azure waters, it's the perfect place to relax and forget about the world. There are other, smaller beaches along the island that are secluded enough that you may be the only visitor there.

Vieques is known for horses that roam throughout the island. Most have owners, but since the island is so small, they roam free. A night time kayak tour of bioluminescent Mosquito Bay is also a must – it’s surreal to watch the water light up as you paddle along. But make sure not to visit during a full moon, because the bay doesn't light properly, and many operators don't even host experiences. I made the mistake of scheduling my last two trips to Vieques during a full moon!

Go on a guided hike at El Yunque National Forest

El Yunque National Forest is the only rainforest in the United States National Park Service and one of my favorite places on earth. Listening to the coqui's calming sounds (this tiny frog makes a very distinct call, "cooh-qi") automatically relaxes me and takes me to a happy place. Many local tour operators and volunteers at the newly reopened El Yunque El Portal Visitor Center offer guided tours along the forest's many trails. Although the forest is one of the smallest in the United States, it’s one of the most biologically diverse. Along with a range of wildlife, there are 150 fern species and 240 tree species (88 of these are endemic or rare, and 23 are exclusively found in El Yunque).

The forest was extensively damaged by Hurricane Maria in 2017, but trails have been gradually reopening. After a challenging hike, I love taking a dip in La Mina Falls, a stunning waterfall with a natural pool. The water is bitterly cold, but I guarantee that it will help your sore muscles feel better. I recommend going early in the morning during a weekday, to avoid crowds.

Iconic La Mina Falls in El Yunque National Forest. Image credit: Jessica van Dop DeJesus

Explore the southern coast of Puerto Rico, filled with culture and gorgeous beaches

I may be biased, but I think the southern coast of Puerto Rico is one of the most underrated regions of the island. Many visitors tend to stay in San Juan and its surrounding areas, but there is plenty to see, do, and of course, eat, here. The biggest city on the coast is Ponce, which is known for its culture. It’s home to El Museo de la Musica Puertorriqueña, containing memorabilia of the many Puerto Rican music genres. El Museo de Arte de Ponce is one of the most prominent museums in the Caribbean, with an impressive permanent collection, including the famous painting Flaming June by Frederic Leighton. Growing up, my Dad used to take us to Ponce once a month on a weekend outing, and it's become a special place for me to return.

The island's southwest coast has impressive beaches with blue, calm waters. Popular beaches include Playa Santa in Guanica, and Boquerón and Playa Sucia, located in Cabo Rojo. I also recommend a stop in La Parguera, a coastal community in Lajas, with a lively nightlife scene on the weekends and boat rides along the bioluminescent bay. But for me, taking in the sunset at Combate Beach in Cabo Rojo with a passion fruit mojito from Annie's Place is the ultimate luxury.

Experience the Caribbean and the Atlantic Ocean in one day

Puerto Rico is lapped by both the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. The beaches on the northern coast tend to be more brazen, with plenty of waves. You can take a dip in San Juan in the morning and then drive an hour down to Patillas, a beach town on the island's southeast coast, for a swim in the Caribbean.

Learn about Afro-Puerto Rican culture in Loíza

Puerto Rico's culture is a mix of European (mainly Spanish), African, and Taíno (the indigenous people who lived on the island before colonization by the Spaniards). The African influence, introduced via slavery, is sometimes overlooked, but its roots are in every aspect of Puerto Rican culture: food, music, art, and dance. A great place to learn more about this heritage is the town of Loíza, located 15 minutes east of San Juan.

Catch live performances of bomba, one of the traditional Afro-Puerto Rican dances, throughout the city on the weekends. Indulge in traditional Puerto Rican food in Piñones, a beach neighborhood lined with kiosks serving delicious treats such as fried cod fritters (bacalaítos), tostones (fried plantains), and empanadas with a selection of creative fillings. Learn about Afro-Puerto Rican art at Estudio de Arte Samuel Lind, an art studio in Loíza. A native of Loíza, Samuel's art focuses on the Afro-Puerto Rican experience for his oil-on-canvas work.

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Barbuda’s Road to Recovery After Hurricane Irma | Travel

Fri, 20 Dec 2019 22:03:49 GMT

Barbuda, with its pink-shell beaches and picture-perfect palm trees, was Princess Diana’s East Caribbean escape whenever she sought to lose the paparazzi. Now, two years since Hurricane Irma, it’s an island trying to repair its recent past and recover a paradise lost.

Part of the Lesser Antilles, and located on the outer arc of the West Indies, Barbuda was directly in the path of the Category 5 storm. When Irma visited in the early hours of September 6, 2017, Barbuda suffered 95% devastation. Winds of up to 185mph (298kph) decimated everything from homes and hotels, to schools, the airport, and the community’s only hospital. Neither running water nor electricity survived, and the island’s steel phone tower folded in two as if it were made of chicken wire. The Prime Minister, Gaston Browne, called the island “uninhabitable” and ordered its 1,500 residents be evacuated.

Barbuda's gradual recovery
Pink sand and frigatebirds
Boosting the economy
Trip Notes

Barbuda's gradual recovery

The island and its people are rising again, but it has been a slow process. When I visited with my young family in November 2018, officials estimated 75% of the population had returned. Yet as we arrived for a day trip, no other travelers were on the catamaran that shuttles passengers between Barbuda and its sister-isle Antigua. Instead, we bounced up and down alongside only sleepy-eyed laborers and smartly dressed NGO workers.

It was a sharp contrast to bustling Antigua, 39mi (63km) south, which avoided severe damage by Irma. Much of Barbuda still felt barren and broken. Flooded dirt roads forced our driver to weave between potholes, uprooted trees, boulders, and wild donkeys. Fences lay flattened. Abandoned beachside cottages featured thick cracks running across their interior walls like varicose veins. A grandiose hotel close to Pink Sand Beach sat empty, save for a chandelier made of shells.

Pink sand and frigatebirds

Yet, despite all this, it’s possible to enjoy Barbuda's unrivaled beauty – and in doing so, pump a little money into an economy in desperate need of exactly that. 4.5mi (7km) south of the ferry terminal, on deserted Princess Diana Beach – so named in 2011 to mark what would have been the late royal’s 50th birthday – we sipped from coconuts hand-picked by our driver and swam in the crystalline Caribbean Sea. We snorkeled with schools of tropical fish, and with a bit more luck, would have been able to spot sea turtles, barracuda, rays, and a variety of other marine creatures.

Back on land and alone for as far as the eye can see, it’s easy to pretend you’re shipwrecked on an uninhabited island. Condé Nast Traveler named Pink Sand Beach the 14th most beautiful in the world, while at the lagoon close to Codrington, Barbuda’s largest town, you can find the largest frigate breeding and nesting colony outside the Galápagos, with around 2,500 birds.

Frigate Bird Sanctuary, Barbuda. Image credit: Antigua and Barbuda Tourism Authority

Boosting the economy

Happily, it’s not only the birds who are flocking back. As of September 2019, half of the island’s 1,200 properties have been rebuilt, according to Prime Minister Browne. Accommodation options remain limited, but they never were abundant. Beach bungalows have reopened, there’s a handful of homestay and Airbnb options available, and a luxury resort located at the northern end of 11 Mile Beach has reopened to rapturous international reviews. Princess Diana Beach has started hosting idyllic weddings again, and popular steel-band music nights and Caribbean cooking classes have even returned to the island.

If in doubt that even a basic day trip can help a community back on to its feet, consider this: as we headed to the wharf to catch the catamaran back to Antigua, our driver stopped at his house to drop off some construction materials. Exiting his black pick-up, he motioned towards the empty shell of a suburban bungalow; its roof just a series of exposed wooden rafters. “That’s home,” he said. “But until I can afford to finish the repairs, I sleep there…” We followed his gaze to the right of the house, where a white, UN-provided tent stood erect in the garden.

Trip Notes

Getting there

The Barbuda Express – catchphrase: “A to B by Sea” – leaves from Antigua at 6:30 or 7:30am most days, takes around 90 minutes, and returns at 3pm most days. A round trip costs US $100. It’s often possible, and sometimes cheaper, to charter a 15-minute flight from Antigua for up to six people.

Day tours

A variety of operators offer day tours, which typically include the ferry, a lobster lunch on Pink Sand Beach, and visits to the Frigate Bird Sanctuary, Princess Diana Beach, and various caves with petroglyphs and stalactites. See Barbudaful.net for more details.

Accommodation

Since this article was originally written, a number of new hotels, resorts, and guest houses have opened. Consider staying a night or two, as you'll have more time to explore.

Responsible Travel in the Caribbean: Tips From an Expert

Fri, 20 Dec 2019 20:32:12 GMT

Ecotourism vs overtourism
Making responsible choices
Supporting the regional economy
Listen to the World Nomads Podcast: Caribbean

From conservation success stories to unprecedented environmental degradation, tourism can be a double-edged sword but, more and more travelers are embracing more responsible forms of travel. In the Caribbean, that often means looking beyond the typical cruises and all-inclusive resorts and exploring the region’s unique cultures and incredible landscapes.

A global biodiversity hotspot home to many endemic species, Caribbean ecosystems are admired by scientists, locals, and visitors alike. Sustainable tourism is a growing industry in the region, and it contributes to both economic development and successful conservation efforts.

When traveling throughout the Caribbean nations, you’ll notice that the region is slowly emerging as a leader in sustainability, through efforts such as adopting renewable energy and banning single-use plastic. It offers countless opportunities to actively participate in responsible tourism and help drive the environmental movement.

Ecotourism vs overtourism

The Caribbean has been a victim of its own success in attracting sun, sand, and sea vacationers. In 2016, 46.7 million people experienced the islands’ lush rainforests and coral reefs, but overtourism, a polluting cruise industry, and climate change have had a negative impact on the Caribbean’s sustainability. From coral bleaching to plastic waste and large deposits of sargassum algae washing ashore, the Caribbean has been the first to witness the detrimental impact of climate change on the environment.

But the region is also taking action, taking the lead in environmental efforts such as cleaning up the oceans. Most of the islands have already taken the step to preserve their local environment by banning plastics. As Cheryl Carter the UK Director of the Barbados Tourism Marketing Inc. explains: “Banning single-use plastics goes some way to ensuring the protection of our pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters that we are famous for. As a destination, however, we realize that our sustainability efforts cannot stop there, and we are proud to say we are embracing many conservation projects and methods across the island, from driving electric cars to biodynamic farming. We are excited for a more sustainable future.”

An ecolodge in Bocas del Toro, Panama. Image credit: Getty Images / DamoceanCreative

Making responsible choices

Helping to preserve beautiful landscapes and rich biodiversity doesn’t have to be left to scientists and politicians – as a traveler, you can contribute by making responsible choices.

Air travel has been put under the spotlight as a major source of carbon emissions, but there are solutions for the eco-conscious traveler. Buying carbon offsets for flights is one popular option, as it enables you to donate to various projects based in the region, ensuring your contribution stays local.

If you’re looking for an experience that you won’t find within the all-inclusive resorts that dot the beachfront, there are many alternative forms of retreat that blend tourism and sustainability. Evident in Guyana becoming the world’s top ecotourism location, and Aruba pioneering agroforestry-based tourism, the region is adding an environmental flair to its breathtaking panoramas and rich cultural history.

As an ecotourist, the responsibility to protect the environment is shared between you and your host community. By choosing environmentally friendly resorts, joining local conservation efforts such as The Sea Turtle Conservancy, and learning about the region’s ecology, you not only expand your knowledge of sustainable practices, but also help to drive conservation efforts.

Hawksbill sea turtle. Image credit: Getty Images / Brandi Mueller

Supporting the regional economy

As a result of the increasing popularity of ecotourism in the Caribbean, more and more eco-conscious travelers have visited the region. However, a 2017 report by the World Travel & Tourism Council notes that despite the region’s popularity, misconceptions regarding the severity and location of storms in the Caribbean have discouraged tourists from traveling to the area. The destruction caused by Hurricane Dorian and Tropical Storm Humberto in 2019 serve as a stark reminder of the problems facing the various nations that make up the region, but these events are rare and should not put off potential visitors.

Sensational headlines tend to be rife on those occasions that severe weather does occur, so ensure that any information you heed comes from local sources that are aware of the current conditions at your destination. Tourism makes a vital contribution to the region’s economy, so it’s important to make informed decisions, as your choice to cancel does not just affect you, but can have serious local repercussions and cause further economic damage.

The tourism industry and the environmental sector have not always been on the same page, but they are intertwined. Ecotourism is not only protecting the local environment, but also the economy, by ensuring that future generations can enjoy the same natural beauty that has long defined the Caribbean. Responsible tourists are driving the sustainable development of the region, one vacation at a time.

The Caribbean: When to Go and How to Get Around

Fri, 20 Dec 2019 19:27:38 GMT

Climate and weather
Best time to visit
Getting around the Caribbean

Climate and weather

From Jamaica’s steamy mangrove swamps to the occasionally snowy top of Pico Duarte in the Dominican Republic, the Caribbean’s weather is as diverse as its natural environment.

The entire region benefits from its proximity to the equator – from about 1,700mi (2,735km) in the northern Caribbean to around 621mi (1,000km) on Panama’s Caribbean coast – leading to warm temperatures usually between 25-33°C (77-90°F). That being said, there’s marked variation in climate across the thousands of islands and the surrounding mainland nations.

Exotic wildlife inhabits the rainforests and reefs that abound throughout the Caribbean, which is considered a biodiversity hotspot. Finding activities that help you explore the environment is easy, and can provide valuable information regarding local conservation efforts and projects aimed at safeguarding the region’s natural capital for future generations.

Many islands and mainland nations, such as Puerto Rico, in the eastern Caribbean, and Costa Rica and Belize, in Central America, feature warm, humid tropical weather. Meanwhile, the southern Caribbean islands of Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao tend to have a drier tropical climate, evident in their savannah-like landscapes and broadleaf forest. More temperate climates can be found on the elevated terrain of mountainous islands such as Dominican Republic, Haiti, or Jamaica.

Stormy weather in Puerto Rico. Image credit: Getty Images / Bloomberg Creative

Best time to visit

The Caribbean experiences a period of dry, warm weather from December to April, and a wet season, which stretches from May to November, with the highest risk of hurricanes and tropical storms occurring between June and November. Transport options, including flight or ferry schedules, can be affected by inclement weather, so it’s important to stay updated and trust the decisions made by local operators.

Caution is always warranted when booking holidays during the wet season, but remember that the region is vast, and that a severe weather event occurring somewhere in the area is not always likely to affect your own destination. Responsible travelers should monitor reports from the Global Disaster and Coordination System (GDACS) and other official sources. But refrain from instantly cancelling your vacations when a hurricane hits the news, and instead contact your hotels and listen to local authorities and advice.

Vintage taxi in Havana. Image credit: Getty Images / zodebala

Getting around the Caribbean

While all-inclusive package holidays are ubiquitous in the Caribbean, travelers who want to explore their own way will get to experience the region from a totally different perspective. Backpackers are still infrequent, but for the adventurous traveler with an open mind, it can be a highly rewarding opportunity.

Flights

Many flights to the region transit through Miami/Fort Lauderdale or Panama, but there are direct flights from various US, Canadian, and European cities to some islands. Traveling between islands can be surprisingly difficult and expensive, meaning any multi-island trip requires advanced planning. The regional carrier LIAT links some destinations in the Eastern Caribbean, but you’ll often hear the joke that the acronym stands for “Leave Island Any Time”, serving as a playful warning to travelers (note: as of November 2020 the airline has been operating at a reduced capacity).

Island transport

Transport within the islands tends to be relatively easy, but can sometimes be expensive. Taxis are usually a safe option but require the same common sense that you would employ at home. Local buses on many islands provide an affordable alternative, but you may have to ask around to work out the schedules and routes. In Jamaica, the Knutsford Express provides a reliable, comfortable option with air conditioning and Wi-Fi, and serves most major towns on the island.

Ferries

Despite its beautiful waters and the short distances between islands, the Caribbean lacks an extensive ferry network. Fort Lauderdale, Florida to Freeport, Grand Bahama is the only regular ferry link between the region and the United States, and services departing from South or Central America are available from only a handful of ports to nearby islands.

Domestic ferry links are common within countries to their smaller islands, such as from Trinidad to Tobago, Grenada to Carriacou, St. Vincent to the Grenadines, and within the Bahamas archipelago. One of the best options for an international island trip is with the L'Express des Îles ferries running frequently to connect the islands of Dominica, Guadeloupe, Martinique, and St. Lucia.

Why These 3 Caribbean Museums Are Worth a Visit | Travel

Fri, 20 Dec 2019 18:41:37 GMT

Memorial ACTe Museum, Guadeloupe
Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue and Jewish Museum, Curaçao
Heritage Museum of Carriacou, Grenada
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Memorial ACTe Museum, Guadeloupe

Every now and again, you go somewhere that changes you and your world view. The Memorial ACTe museum in Pointe-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe, is such a place. Long after my visit, the memory is as fresh as the day I visited.

It’s the largest museum on the planet dedicated to the history of the African slave trade and slavery from the early 17th century to the present. The 77,000ft² (7,154m²) complex, which opened in 2015 on the site of the former Darboussier sugar factory, is an architectural wonder. The black box housing the permanent exhibition visually represents a treasure house of knowledge. The tiny quartz specks in the black granite honor millions of victims of the slave trade and slavery. The silver latticework symbolizes new, intertwined beginnings.

You could spend days in this museum, which was awarded the 2017 Museum Prize by the Council of Europe for its major contribution to the knowledge of European cultural history. It’s part of UNESCO’s Slave Route Project, the global initiative to promote the healing and harmony of people through the shared legacy of slavery.

As fascinating as the façade is, the works inside are powerful and soul-stirring. I saw the replica of a slave ship stuffed with hundreds of people side by side. I lifted a chain – once around someone’s neck – that was so heavy it pulled my hand downward. It made my heart sink, and brought tears to my eyes. As I walked around the exhibits, reflecting years of oppression, I felt uncomfortable and disturbed. I had never reacted to a museum this way. However, the emotions I felt were cleansing; when truth is acknowledged, there is peace. - Sheryl Nance-Nash

Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue. Image credit: Elyse Glickman

Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue and Jewish Museum, Curaçao

A Dutch territory 40mi (65km) north of Venezuela, Curaçao’s appeal to Jewish travelers is that of a fabulous island escape with substance – a rich Jewish history dating to 1651. That history is readily brought to life within Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, the oldest continuously operating congregation in the Western Hemisphere, and adjoining Curaçao Jewish Museum.

Together, they’re the heart and soul of the island’s small-but-active Jewish community. The sandy floor and simple-but-elegant baroque interiors serve as constant reminders of how a small group of Sephardic-Portuguese Jewish merchants escaped the Spanish and Portuguese Inquisition in the 16th and 17th centuries and contributed to Curaçao’s cultural and economic growth.

On my first trip, in 2010, I arrived just in time for Friday night Shabbat services. Afterwards, the rabbi introduced my group to the welcoming, multicultural congregants. He dispelled the popular myth about the temple’s sand-covered floor, chuckling at the romantic notion of having sand brought in from the Sinai Desert. Its actual purpose was to muffle footsteps and praying to avoid detection from Spanish invaders or pirates – a legitimate concern when the synagogue was consecrated in 1732.

In 2010, the museum had a modest but nicely arranged assortment of Jewish artifacts providing a general overview of Jewish life, traditions, and holidays. Nearly a decade later, it’s been extensively refurbished. A detailed timeline at its entrance puts the island’s Jewish history in context with general world history, while artifacts from long-established Sephardic and Ashkenazi families humanize the Jewish role in Curaçao society.

On my second visit, in 2019, my close friend Renee said that she felt at home here in a way she hasn’t in other Jewish communities. When sharing family names and stories from her Sephardic-Caribbean family tree, the congregants responded in kind with details of their mixed Jewish heritages. Conversations like these, over challah and coffee, say as much about Curaçao’s collective pride and Jewish culture as the museum does. - Elyse Glickman

Clamencia Alexander, Heritage Museum of Carriacou. Image credit: Bruce N. Meyer

Heritage Museum of Carriacou, Grenada

The beautiful island of Carriacou, one of seven that makes up the nation of Grenada, takes some effort to get to. But it’s worth the 90-minute ferry ride from the capital, St. George’s, when you discover gems like the Heritage Museum of Carriacou.

We stumbled upon this museum one afternoon while poking around in Hillsborough, Carriacou’s tiny main town. Located in what we were told is the world's second-oldest cotton gin, it's a cluttered little museum, but amidst the disarray, you can appreciate the colorful music, clothing, and history of the people of Carriacou.

While angling for a closer look at a big drum used in the Maroon Festival, celebrating the island’s indigenous culture, I literally stumbled on what, at first, looks like an old log. Some years earlier, a local man found this “log” buried in the sand on Mount Pleasant Beach. As he dug it up, he realized it was a canoe made from a gum tree from the Orinoco River Basin in Venezuela. The interior had been burned and carved with a stone axe. No one knows who made it or how long it had been buried in the sand.

Upstairs, we found a collection of folk art by Canute Caliste, a self-taught artist whose works are in museums around the world, including the Smithsonian.

Caliste, who died in 2005, was also a master fiddler and boat builder who fathered 22 children. One of those is Clamencia Alexander, who manages the museum. Each month, she showcases a fresh selection of her father’s work from her personal collection, which is the world’s largest of Caliste’s work.

My husband, an art major, loved Caliste’s colorful simplicity in capturing the spirit of Carriacou, and we thanked our good fortune to happen upon this charming little museum in this out-of-the-way destination. - Diana Lambdin Meyer

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Respect and Renewal: Contemporary Art in Curaçao

Fri, 20 Dec 2019 01:52:30 GMT

Although I’ve been a musician for most of my life, I’ve always felt less than gifted in the arts. Put anything other than a mic in my hands, especially a paint brush, and I become a klutz, making art in general something I both admire and fear.

But on a trip to the island of Curaçao, in the southern Caribbean about 40mi (65km) north of Venezuela , I discover something among its rich, world-renowned community of artists, many of whom infuse their work with principles of sustainability – the healing spirit evident in the name of the island, derived from the Portuguese word for heart (coração).

On a day-long tour of the works of three leading artists, I find inspiration everywhere.

Garrick Marchena
Serena Janet Israel
Andy Kirchner
Trip Notes
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Ami Ta Kòrsou (I Am Curaçao). Image credit: Garrick Marchena

Garrick Marchena

I’m in Curaçao’s capital, Willemstad, a city that embraces upcycling by converting countless, deteriorating colonial buildings into dazzling new hotels and businesses. Leading our Tuk-tuk brigade down the narrow back alleys of the pastel-colored Pietermaai district is street artist Garrick Marchena. The 53-year-old native paints strategically placed murals throughout the city to raise awareness of the environmental and cultural issues the island is facing, such as the ongoing recovery from colonialism.

He stops in front of one of his most renowned works, called Ami Ta Kòrsou (I Am Curaçao), which features a Partawal, a local white-tailed hawk that serves as a symbol of guardianship. Next to it, a poem proclaims the emancipation and healing of the city in artistic lettering inspired by indigenous cave paintings and California Cholo lettering – a gothic-style graffiti used by Mexican gangs.

Chichi® sculpture. Image credit: Jay Galvin / Flickr Creative Commons

Serena Janet Israel

With my art appetite whetted, the brigade heads to Serena’s Art Factory. Many visitors to Curaçao will recognize the Chichi^® doll souvenir, a curvaceous, black plaster sculpture of a woman created by the sprightly, energetic Serena Janet Israel – a 48-year-old German transplant who has lived in Curaçao for more than 20 years. Each Chichi^® doll is hand-molded by Israel and hand-painted by a local artist to create a one-of-a-kind original, rather than a mass-produced trinket. Sustainably extends to the mold itself, which can be reused hundreds of times. “Our Chichi^® stand for decency and respect,” Israel declares.

I’m invited to paint my own design on a Chichi^® doll, but am doubtful of my abilities. However, once I cradle the Chichi® doll in my hand, I give my full concentration to the project. I don’t seem to exhale until the last, painstakingly detailed red brush stroke, and realize that I’ve been in a meditative state during the entire two-hour session, leaving me energized and focused, yet completely at peace. Who knew painting could be so healing?

“Love Light”. Image credit: Andy Kirchner, 2nd Life Curaçao

Andy Kirchner

We end our day at 2nd Life Curaçao, an art studio and collective located at the home of “The Recycled Pirate” aka Andy Kirchner. Upcycling is the lifeblood of Kirchner’s work, and he’s most known for his “love lights” – lanterns made from cans that weren’t being recycled, as recycling bins were only placed around the island starting in 2016 by the TUI Care Foundation.

Kirchner, a ruggedly handsome man with a salt and pepper beard, walks with a slight limp and a cane because of a tragic scuba diving accident seven years ago that cost his girlfriend her life. Out of the pain came the inspiration for him to create 2nd Life Curaçao, which is not only focused on sustainability but also dedicated to giving a second life to the injured and disabled. We each take home a hand-hammered lantern of a heart, which now sits on my counter, reminding me to love and appreciate Mother Earth, and myself.

No trip to Curaçao is complete without a swim in the warm Caribbean waters. As I float lazily on my back, after a day fueled by art and human connection, I feel resolved to bring my new principles home with me, along with my cherished Chichi doll, to remind me of the artist within me. During my short time on this island, I was cured of my own limiting beliefs in my artistic skills.

Trip Notes

Getting there

American Airlines, jetBlue, Air Canada, and KLM offer direct flights to Curaçao from Miami, Caracas, Amsterdam, and Newark. From Curaçao International Airport, it’s a quick 15 to 20-minute taxi ride over to the Pietermaai District (around US $35).

Costs

Curaçao is fairly affordable, compared to its better-known sister island Aruba.

For meals, local plates start at US $6, but travelers can spend as much as US $20-$60 for a meal at the upscale resorts and restaurants. Keep an eye out for local, seasonal food such as Dutch pancakes or Balchi di piska (fried fish cakes).

There are several options for getting around Curaçao. Bus rides often costs no more than US $1 a trip. Taxis are convenient, starting at about US $8 a fare. Rental cars are steeper, ranging US $30-$80 a day.

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Dominica: 4 Eco-Adventures on the “Nature Island” | Travel

Sat, 14 Dec 2019 00:42:22 GMT

This 29mi (47km) long, 16mi (26km) wide island, one of the Lesser Antilles in the Eastern Caribbean, was dubbed with the Latin word for Sunday by Christopher Columbus in 1493. Environmental sustainability is inherent here. It was the first nation to be certified by the Green Globe program for sustainable development in 2005. This adoration of nature has made the island a phenomenal place for eco-adventures.

Snorkeling at Champagne Reef
Visiting the hot springs
Lessons in rappelling down a waterfall
Foraging for food with a local chef
Trip Notes
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Snorkeling at Champagne Reef

I have heard about Dominica’s Champagne Reef, one of the few places on earth where it’s possible to snorkel above a volcano. I’m with the responsible tour operator Nature Island Dive, and I’m not sure what to expect, but am hoping to see the effervescence caused by geothermal activity.

Our expert snorkeling guide, Dizzy, picks up her speed and fins towards a scene straight out of a nature film. Nature herself is tickling me, as I joyfully swim through the rare phenomena of small gas bubbles rising from the volcanic seafloor. The venting attracts a slew of sea creatures and I see a school of squid for the first time, and catch a glimpse of an octopus, scorpionfish, and a sea turtle near the Scott’s Head Peninsula.

Visiting the hot springs

Dominica has one of the world’s highest concentrations of dormant volcanoes, which lend themselves to epic hikes such as the famous Boiling Lake trek, an 8-hour round trip with an elevation of 2,600 ft (790m).

After exploring Dominica’s mountainous terrain, I’m eager to soothe my body in the natural, hot sulfur springs the island is known for. I stroll between heated dipping pools, mud oozing between my toes, at the locally owned Ti Kwen Glo Cho in Wotten Waven, an unpretentious outdoor spa in the middle of the jungle, but only a 15-minute drive from the capital, Roseau. I’m the only foreigner here, but am warmly welcomed by locals.

After soaking in the hot water pools, I dash into freezing freshwater, streaming out of an industrial pipe to form a shower. Indigenous flowers scent the air as I settle in for a long, warm soak in the rustic, outdoor copper tub, with the cascading waterfall in the background as my soundtrack.

The hike to Boiling Lake. Image credit: Getty Images / Joseph Thomas Photography

Lessons in rappelling down a waterfall

There are more than 12 officially named waterfalls in Dominica, and it’s possible to rappel down the cascades. I join a beginner’s course with Extreme Dominica, and after gearing up, we receive training on how to rappel across a canyon, starting with an 8-foot ledge, which helps take the edge off my reasonable fear of jumping from taller heights.

The terrain is easy to traverse – just a moderate fitness level is needed, and there’s an 11-year-old on our tour. We hike through the verdant jungle into a canyon and make our way along a mossy gorge. A series of thrilling jumps, rappels, and rock slides gets us down the face of six waterfalls and into cool natural pools. It’s intimidating and adrenaline-inducing at times – especially during a hair-raising, 25ft (8m) jump off a waterfall.

Foraging for food with a local chef

I’m vegan, and foraging is one of my favorite travel experiences – to me, one of the best ways to discover a destination is through its food. I meet Grant Lynott, executive chef of Zing Zing restaurant at the Secret Bay eco-resort, on a backyard-to-table nature walk, harvesting ingredients for a meal straight from the source.

Armed with a wicker basket and a pair of gardening shears, we peruse the resort’s organic food gardens. Most of the plants we find were planted by colonizers from France and England (who competed for ownership of the island from 1632 until 1805, when the French withdrew). We pluck edible hibiscus flowers and wild herbs for seasoning, including moringa, sorrel, and bay leaves. I'm surprised to discover there are plants I had no idea were edible, including papaya seeds, which can be used to make pepper, and love trying their unique flavors.

Trip Notes

Getting there

Several local airlines fly to Dominica from other Caribbean islands. There are occasional ferries from Martinique, Guadeloupe, and St. Lucia. Hire a car with a driver to get around Dominica.

Hot springs

Wotten Waven is 15 minutes from Roseau. Entrance for visitors is US $10. You can store your belongings at the covered benches by each pool.

Snorkeling at Champagne Beach

Snorkel tours are US $30 a person including equipment, Marine Park fees, and a trained guide. Guided kayak snorkel tours are US $50 per person. Groups of four or more can be picked up in Roseau for an additional US $25 per person.

Rappelling waterfalls

A half-day tour starts at US $159 per person and includes equipment, a local guide, and pick up in Roseau. No prior experience is required. Bring swimwear and closed footwear.

It’s important to check you’ve purchased the right level of travel insurance cover and have the appropriate qualifications for your chosen adventure sport before you leave home. Still not sure if you’re covered? Check your policy for more details.

Foraging

The foraging experience is US $182 per group (two to four people) and must be booked in advance.

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5 Unforgettable Experiences in the Caribbean | Travel

Fri, 13 Dec 2019 19:57:21 GMT

Surf trippin’ in Panama
A bomba workshop in San Juan
Connecting through craft beer in Puerto Rico
Guavaberries, a Caribbean Christmas carol
Restoring a coral reef in Bonaire
Listen to the World Nomads Podcast: Caribbean

Surf trippin’ in Panama

On a particularly hot, humid, and surf-less January day on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica, I get a text message from a friend promising a swell in the Caribbean.

A day later, I cross the Panamanian border to Changuinola, and catch a one-hour speedboat bound for Isla Colon in Bocas del Toro province.

After our first surf at a punchy wave called Paunch, we replenish at a signless roast chicken joint behind a chain link fence. Ice-cold Balboa cervezas accompany the salty chicken and neon-orange habanero sauce.

The next day, the entire town of Bocas gathers in the plaza as the President of Panama arrives by helicopter. Running down in the nick of time, we're able to shake the hand of Ricardo Martinelli as he works the crowd.

Meanwhile, we’ve heard about a secret wave on Isla Bastimentos that you can only access by hiking to it.

After more than an hour of trudging through the jungle in sticky, sandal-snapping mud, we find a surf spot. We know it's the one, because the secret is out: six other surfers sit waiting for a wave. We paddle out and say hello. Within minutes, one of the other surfers shouts, “BULL SHARK!”

I nearly walk on water as I paddle to the shore, grab my broken Havaianas, and sprint back to the docks.

That night, we celebrate our misadventures at the local bars. Since I’d already lost one pair of thongs and know of a swim-up cantina, I put a protective layer of duct-tape on my feet in lieu of shoes. Going shoeless pays off when we have to swim, fully clothed, to the last boat back to Isla Colon. - Audrey Hills

Bomba dancing and drums, Puerto Rico. Image credit: Sandor Weisz / Flickr Creative Commons

A bomba workshop in Puerto Rico

“Maraca, cuá, buleador, subidor!”

We repeat the instructor’s words as she stands on stage, pointing at various instruments – a rattle, a pair of wooden sticks, low-pitch and high-pitch drums. Before I can memorize them, more words follow: “seis corridos, sicá” – names of distinct beats that the drummer demonstrates for us. Learning bomba, Puerto Rico’s earliest musical genre created by enslaved Africans, feels like learning a new language.

I might have missed this bomba workshop, held at Corporación Piñones se Integra’s (COPI) community center in Loíza – the heart of Afro Puerto-Rican culture – if I hadn’t contacted Local Guest. A community-focused tour enterprise, Local Guest connects visitors with immersive experiences around Puerto Rico. They’d arranged my visit with COPI’s founder, Maricruz Rivera, who shared the history of Puerto Rico’s African heritage and the decades of marginalization of Black boricuas (Puerto Ricans) in this Piñones region. In 2001, the center began reviving bomba music to preserve Afro-Puerto Rican identity and culture for future generations.

That same week, Rivera invited me back to COPI – a 15-minute drive east of Old San Juan – to join a group US students and teachers for a bomba class.

It’s time to dance and demonstrate what we’ve learned together. The women are handed green, red, or yellow skirts, used to express bomba’s signature movements. We shake our hips while moving backwards, our hands holding our skirts out wide; we stop and sway side to side, while snapping our skirts open. With each move we make, slow or fast, the drummer beats a corresponding rhythm. Learning bomba, it turns out, isn’t about words. It’s about unity. - Lily Girma

Ocean Lab brewery. Image credit: Ocean Lab

Connecting through craft beer in Puerto Rico

Before visiting in 2019, I hadn’t visited Puerto Rico (PR) in 14 years, before the term “craft beer” entered the lexicon of anyone outside the savviest of mainland American connoisseurs. True, I’d snuck the occasional sip of Cuba Libre during my family’s annual vacations, taken to nurture friendships forged in 1950, when my Caucasian grandparents began bringing their children down every year for a winter escape. But in 2005, I had yet to imagine I’d become a professional beer writer, and options for local cerveza consisted of little more than mass-produced Medalla.

When a work trip called me to return, I sought out several of PR’s dozen-or-so artisanal breweries, plus bar owners and homebrewers. I learned that independent breweries like Ocean Lab, Pura Vida, FOK, and REBL are blossoming from the beaches to the mountains. In San Juan, publicans are pouring them all.

The geographic penetration surprised me. But true shock came from witnessing the prevalence of craft beers I’ve devoted my career to writing about.

One afternoon, stopping for lunch in what used to be barely passable jungle, I literally gasped when I spotted a coffee shop covered in decorative signs for breweries like Bell’s, Cigar City, and North Coast. Two decades ago, I doubt this area had running water. Now it has American craft beer.

And at La Taberna Boricua in San Juan, a keg poured Founders Canadian Breakfast Stout, a Michigan beer so rare I’ve never seen it on draught. Words evaded me when the bartender poured me an entire pint.

I’ve carried a lot of guilt about neglecting my life-long Puerto Rican friends, especially after Hurricane Maria. But with this new community joining my present with my past, I feel my sentimental homeland has embraced me anew. - Tara Nurin

Lucia Henley’s guavaberry liqueur stand on St. Thomas. Image credit: Ashley Winchester

Guavaberries, a Caribbean Christmas carol

For me, it’s not the holidays without a healthy dose of guavaberry liqueur. I’ve celebrated Christmas nearly every year with family on St. John in the US Virgin Islands, and this Yuletide beverage is as traditional as Santa’s milk and cookies.

The sweet, but strong, rum-based brew is the product of a centuries-old eastern Caribbean tradition steeped in song, celebration, and secrecy. Groves of guavaberries, which appear year to year, are as transient as Scrooge’s generosity, and are closely guarded family secrets.

There are commercial versions available, but our go-to source for the authentic stuff is Lucia Henley’s stand off of Highway 32 in the East End of St. Thomas, another of the US Virgin Islands. Henley is among the most prolific purveyors of the homemade drink, and visitors can find her stand well-stocked from November through December with guavaberry liqueur, jams and pies.

A song, “Good mornin’, good mornin’, ah come for me guavaberry…” speaks to the island custom of caroling house to house in exchange for a sample of that family’s stash, and Henley always sings a few lines of the tune as she offers me a taste of her concoction. It’s special, like a fine brandy, and is traditionally passed between carolers and revelers in the same way as wassail – the mulled wine drink of Medieval Christmastime that’s also linked to song. Today, guavaberry liqueur is most often enjoyed alone in a snifter or over ice, as a holiday aperitif, but it’s also tasty as a topping over ice cream.

Our favorite way to imbibe is after caroling and Christmas Eve events on St. John, following Santa’s visit – by boat – in downtown Cruz Bay, and each sip of the bright red drink adds to the festive atmosphere. - Ashley Winchester

Cutting staghorn at Buddy's Reef Nursery. Image credit: Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire

Restoring a coral reef in Bonaire

Weighted down by scuba gear and floating just above the sandy ocean floor, I carefully tie a string, dangling a coral fragment, to the branch of a “tree” in a coral nursery. The tree is made of thin, metal cross bars attached to a thicker post – coral fragments hang from each bar like Christmas ornaments. Around me, divers gently brush juvenile coral to remove algae and predators, while others clip, restring, and rehang fragments – which grow an inch a month – on the trees. The clipping process enables the coral to regenerate time and again.

These coordinated efforts are all part of a Discover Reef Renewal Dive with Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire. We’re helping to restore the coral that surrounds the island and provides habitats to myriad marine life. After all, the reefs are what draw divers from around the world to this small, Dutch Caribbean island around 50mi (80km) north of Venezuela.

Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire was founded in 2012 with a mission to protect and restore the coral reefs within the Bonaire National Marine Park, which was established in 1979 and surrounds the island entirely. Currently, some 13,000 individual corals are grown in Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire’s eight nurseries, and more than 22,000 corals have been outplanted back to the reefs. The foundation invites certified scuba divers who are interested in volunteering to complete a training course and assist with the nursery, maintenance, and outplanting corals to restoration sites around Bonaire and Klein Bonaire.

As someone who’s been passionate about marine life since learning to snorkel in Hawaii as a little girl, I'm thrilled to participate in a Discover Reef Renewal Dive and do my part to help preserve Bonaire’s coral reefs for future generations. - Susan Barnes

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Caribbean Festivals: Nomads Share Their Favorites

Thu, 12 Dec 2019 01:38:24 GMT

Playing Jouvert at Trinidad Carnival
Maypole Festival, Bluefields, Nicaragua
Turks and Caicos Conch Festival
Feria de Río Tigre, Guna Yala, Panama

Playing Jouvert at Trinidad Carnival

Burning sunshine, booming soca music, and blinged-out parades may be most people’s image of a Caribbean carnival, but for me, it’s the untamed intensity of “dirty mas”(masquerade): joining a city-full of revelers to dance through moonlit streets under a coating of mud, body paint, oil, and even melted chocolate. This orgy of pure, unadulterated bacchanalia is Jouvert, a loose translation of the French jour ouvert (opening of the day), and the official start of the Caribbean's biggest and best Carnival.

This pre-dawn ritual begins with a 2am alarm, hot coffee, the first of many rum shots, and the briefest of outfits, pearly-white and ready for adornment. Outside, the air crackles with misrule as we meet our band and receive the Jouvert baptism, covering each other top-to-toe with smooth, purified mud until faces and features disappear in glorious anonymity.

The music truck growls into action as we shuffle onto the road, moving together in the chip, chip, chip rhythm of the Jouvert walk. Arcs of paint fly: red, yellow, blue, and purple splattering me, the tarmac, the street signs in Pollock-esque style, and polka-dotting the roadside dancers who leave smudged imprints of a back or bottom against a pristine white wall.

Paint-smeared Jouvert revelers on Trinidad. Image credit: Getty Images / Blacqbook

Dawn streaks into the sky as we reach the hallowed, grassy Savannah. We’re the first. As we cross the stage, dancing for ourselves to the empty stands, the rising sun reveals a kaleidoscope of humanity: ochre mud, technicolor paint, rich brown chocolate, slick black oil: bodies moving with snake-hipped intensity, friends hugging, everyone laughing and loving the sheer pleasure of being alive.

And three hours later, scrubbed up and clad in feathered, beaded glory, we’re back on the road in the hot-hot sun for the first day of the main Carnival parades.

Trinidad’s Carnival is celebrated the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday every year.

Author: Polly Thomas

Maypole Festival, Bluefields, Nicaragua

Every May in Bluefields, a small town on Nicaragua’s Caribbean coast, the streets explode into a celebration that traces its lineage 400 years – not to Spain, but to Great Britain.

British pirates first touched these shores in the 17th century, where they met the indigenous Miskitos, who’d already mixed with Africans who’d escaped a capsized Portuguese slaver. Over the years, former slaves, European settlers, and Caribbean immigrants formed Nicaragua’s English-speaking Creole people. One of them was my great-grandmother. I doubt she imagined one of her descendants would be born in California and have to wait 29 years for her first Maypole dance.

On my first night in Bluefields, my cousins took me to one of the neighborhood block parties that rotate throughout the month. There was a greasy pole (shimmy to the top to grab the prize), an ultra-local beauty pageant, and a dance competition around the Maypole, a tree hung with streamers and real fruit.

The Maypole dance was an ancient fertility rite in England, but the people of Bluefields have made it all their own. The dizzying rhythms are unmistakably African, and it’s sung in English, Miskito, and Spanish. To dance Maypole, you have to surrender and let your hips bounce of their own volition.

Maypole Dancers. Image credit: Lauren Schenckman

By day, each neighborhood comparsa, or troupe, dances in a town-wide parade to live drummers. On the final night, we gathered for the “tulululu”, wiggling our way in pairs down a tunnel of joined hands. We danced all night, then ran for shelter from Bluefields’ torrential rain.

But my unforgettable Maypole moment was at a small party thrown by a family friend. Her granddaughters, four and six, took the floor. Effortlessly, they shook their hips to the Maypole rhythm – a good sign that this very old festival will have a very long life.

Bluefield’s Maypole Festival is held throughout the month of May.

Author: Lauren Schenkman

Turks and Caicos Conch Festival

Put a shell up to your ear, and you’ll hear the sea. Listen to Triton’s Trumpet, and you’ll hear the Caribbean.

Every November, the British Overseas Territory of Turks and Caicos, some 575mi (925km) south of Miami, Florida, celebrates its edible trumpets. Visitors and “belongers” (locals) conch it up at the Conch Festival, held at Blue Hills on the island of Providenciales. Festivities include a conch fritter-eating contest, a conch-knocking contest, a conch-peeling competition, and a conch-blowing tournament. The winner of this last, prestigious event must produce a recognizable tune. When I entered, I produced a plumbing anomaly. The judges also didn’t like my peeling productivity, and in the eating contest, four fritters at one sitting was considered second division.

I left the cooking to the experts. Belongers at The Three Queen’s bar – the cradle of conch worship – told me where to get the best: Coco Bistro (ravioli), The Bay (crepes), Hemingway’s (chowder), and the shacks down Blue Hills Road for conch sautéed in rum.

Conch salad served in a conch shell. Image credit: Getty Images / Carlyle Sands / EyeEm

The conch is known as Triton’s Trumpet after the Greek god of the sea. It's favored by merpeople – maids and men. Along with the spiny lobster and the flamingo, the conch is featured prominently on the islands’ coat of arms. It must be the world’s only heraldic mollusc. Conch is a cult.

When Columbus discovered conch on Turks and Caicos in 1492, he described the shells as “the size of a calf head”. Today, Providenciales has the world’s only commercial conch farm.

Having eaten conch (Strombus) in its fried, smoked, frittered, and pecan-encrusted form, I soon developed many of the famous attributes of the Caribbean marine snail. After conching it up, you don’t move very far. Or very quickly.

The Turks and Caicos Conch Festival is held on the last weekend of November.

Author: Kevin Pilley

Feria de Río Tigre, Guna Yala, Panama

Held on Isla Tigre, in the north of Panama’s Guna Yala archipelago, is Feria de Río Tigre, a four-day craft fair. As one of the last indigenous tribes of the Caribbean, the Guna gained independence from Panama in the 1925 revolution. They became the first autonomous indigenous group in Latin America, which has allowed them to retain their enchanting culture.

Drawing Guna from their remote islands, the fair has an inclusive, community feel as they teach each other and visitors the craftsmanship of pottery, sewing molas – colorful appliqué clothing unique to the Guna – and geometric, beaded bracelets called chaquiras.

Guna dancers at Feria de Río Tigre. Image credit: Lucy Pierce

I’m treated to a magical Nogagope performance, an intimate, spiritual dance between couples to bamboo flutes and maracas. Dedicated to Mother Earth, the ritualistic dance is intended to keep evil spirits away. The couples line up to face each other, slowly hopping back and forth diagonally to the rhythm. Dressed in molas, the women begin to spin, with their flowing, dark hair echoing the sensual movement of the dance.

Volleyball matches are also part of the festivities and are highly competitive, with players launching into action like springbok on the run. Despite their wide grins of encouragement for me to join them, the ball is tactically angled away from me after I make a few dud shots.

The day wraps up with a feast of enormous, meaty lobster and delicate, sweet crab followed by fresh coconuts. No frills, just locally foraged foods as I discuss Guna traditions with my new friends.

Feria de Río Tigre is held in mid-October.

Author: Lucy Pierce

A Sint Maarten Vacation on a Shoestring Budget

Wed, 11 Dec 2019 20:17:52 GMT

Is Sint Maarten expensive? Yes, but it is possible to travel on a budget! Learn how a family can spend a month on this notoriously expensive Caribbean island without breaking the bank.

Almost as soon as I paid for the flights, I realized my mistake. While a month in Cambodia or Colombia can be enjoyed on a meager budget, no matter how cheap your tickets to the Caribbean are, 30 days of family accommodation will almost certainly turn an economical escape into an exorbitant one. Add on island taxis, imported food, and daily entertainment, and such a trip threatens to not only break the bank but also your nomadic spirit.

After a small panic, I reasoned: we were not visiting Sint Maarten for its mega-resorts nor its rib-eye steaks. The attraction was the unique 34mi² (87km²) isle, part of the Leeward Islands in the Northeast Caribbean. Divided in half and governed by two different countries – Sint Maarten by the Netherlands, and St. Martin by France – its fine-as-flour beaches and crystalline waters are complemented by arguably the world’s most famous landing strip. Given all three can be enjoyed for free, Sint Maarten on a shoestring should be possible… right?

Accommodation
Transport
Food
Entertainment
Trip Notes

Accommodation

A cursory search online highlighted the hazards of long stays in the West Indies. All-inclusive was out of the question, but even two-star hotels were charging US $3,000 for the month. Airbnb averaged US $445 a night. Eventually, after digging with all the determination of our toddler daughter and her bucket and spade, we happened across a yacht support center on the French side of the island.

Such centers are designed to offer assistance to crew members temporarily forced ashore. We had stayed in similar in Antigua, and found them both excellent and economical. Our St. Martin lodgings included a laundromat, engine repair shop, and no-frills waterfront cabins for US $30 per night. We fell asleep each evening to the calming sound of the sea and used the free Wi-Fi while we sipped our morning coffee. Its location was not ideal, but with a car it was no problem. And in the Caribbean, it’s almost always best to rent a car.

Island road, St. Maarten. Image credit: Getty Images / Danita Delimont Getty Images

Transport

All around the Caribbean, island taxis cater almost exclusively to visitors, and the prices reflect that. Arriving at Sint Maarten’s Princess Juliana Airport, we were quoted US $30 for an 11-minute drive to our digs. Instead, we got a free shuttle to a nearby rental car office and booked a Hyundai i20 for US $25 a day.

The other obvious benefit of a car is that it opens up the entire island. In the town of Swetes on Antigua, that had meant a spontaneous stop opposite the Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church, where a temporary roadside barbecue sold US $10 lobster lunches. In Sint Maarten, it meant lying under incoming airplanes on Maho Beach, but also visiting various others, such as Orient Bay, Cupecoy, and Mullet Bay. On the way, we stopped at a local market and filled a small thermal bag with drinks, rather than splurging at the beachside bars.

The "Old Street" Shopping Arcade, Philipsburg. Image credit: Getty Images / Bob Krist

Food

Sometimes it seems if you want to eat cheap in the Caribbean, you’re stuck with fast food. Thankfully, that’s an illusion – you just need to eat like a local. Visiting The Bahamas a year earlier, we discovered if you eat under the bustling bridge at Potter’s Cay, rather than at the tourist haven of Arawak, you can save more than 50% on your conch salad or jerk chicken.

In Sint Maarten, it’s a similar story. We avoided the beachfront cafes that unashamedly charge US $15 for a simple omelette, and headed to Dish D’Lish, a family restaurant in the Simpson Bay neighborhood not far from Princess Juliana airport, where we heaped our plates with seafood pasta at the US $10 gourmet buffet. (Note: Dish D'Lish has since closed.)

Traveling soon? Learn how travel insurance could help your trip to the Caribbean.

Entertainment

November, when we were there, is at the tail end of hurricane season, meaning low-season rates for high-season weather, but you should expect at least a couple of tropical downpours. In Sint Maarten, you’ll find casino flyers everywhere that include US $5 or $10 vouchers – no purchase necessary. We spent a rainy evening taking turns playing 50 cent blackjack with free money. Whoever said the house always wins probably also believes it’s impossible to do Sint Maarten on a shoestring. They’re wrong.

Trip notes

The official currency of St. Martin is Euros, and the official currency of Sint Maarten is Antillean guilders, but US dollars are accepted on both sides of the island.

Beyond Reggae: Exploring the Caribbean Music Scene

Fri, 06 Dec 2019 01:26:30 GMT

Caribbean jazz
Gospel dancehall in Jamaica
Electronic music in the Caribbean

The islands of the Caribbean have proudly claimed ownership of their native styles of music, flavored with North American and European influences. Jamaican ska, reggae, and dancehall, Trinidadian calypso and soca, as well as French-Caribbean’s cadence and zouk, have all been major exports and festival draws since their inception. But starting in the 1980s, jazz, electronic music, and Jamaican gospel dancehall have also entered into the Caribbean music circuit.

Caribbean jazz

In 2006, I was working at my aunt’s restaurant in Nevis. I had just graduated music school, and was keen to utilize my new skills and contacts. While getting to know the local bar and restaurant owners, it struck me that the island was ripe for a blues and jazz festival, as it attracted an affluent traveler demographic I felt would enjoy world-renowned artists in a tropical setting. Many scoffed at my youthful idea, reminding me that St. Lucia already had a world-renowned jazz festival, but some encouraged me to pursue it.

Sadly, Nevis was hit by a hurricane in 2008, knocking out the Four Seasons, one of the main hotels on the small island and a major draw for tourist dollars. I shelved my idea and pursued work in North America. But I must have been onto something. Less than a decade later, the Nevis Blues Festival debuted in April 2015 and lasted two years, until another hurricane hit in 2018. Now, blues and jazz performances are scattered throughout the island at various resorts and hotels.

But as early as the 1980s, jazz music started to gain popularity throughout the Caribbean. The softening of intra-Caribbean musical barriers allowed an influx of musical styles to infiltrate the region through global radio stations, visitors, and youth who attended college abroad and brought new styles of music back home. Such is the case with Arturo Tappin, a Barbadian saxophonist first exposed to jazz music when his son attended university in North America. Apparently Tappin’s Barbadian manager, Scofield Pilgrim, then introduced many Trinidadians to jazz when he lived in Port of Spain, Trinidad. And in turn, Trinidadian Gene Lawrence later became chairman of St. Lucia’s jazz society.

St. Lucia Jazz Festival. Image credit: Getty Images / Earl Gibson III / Contributor

In 1986, Aruba’s Jazz and Latin Music Festival debuted, running until 2001. It was the Caribbean’s inaugural jazz festival. St Lucia’s Jazz Festival followed in 1992. Paxton Baker, a young American who would go on to become a philanthropist, organized and booked award-winning international talent for both festivals, as well as Trinidad’s Pan Jazz Festival, celebrating the rising popularity of this Caribbean music genre, which features jazzy arrangements of popular tunes on the steelpan.

The success of these early jazz festivals inspired 30 more annual festivals throughout the Caribbean by the mid-90s, along with an influx of jazz clubs scattered throughout the islands. Many festivals eventually merged to soul, pop, R&B, and reggae headliners, including the late Amy Winehouse. But strictly jazz-programmed festivals are still running in Haiti, Barbados, Havana (Cuba), and Bermuda; the latter two run every two years. Year-round, Havana hosts amazing jazz at various hotspots around the city, including Jazz Club, La Zorra y el Cuervo, and Miramar Jazz.

Gospel dancehall in Jamaica

When I visited Kingston in 2010, the Jamaica Family Festival was on. It was a beautiful outdoor concert with delicious jerk food, smiling kids, and live music. When local singer Kevin Smith took the mic and began to sing the gospel over dancehall riddims, I did a triple-take; I had never heard dancehall praise God before!

Gospel dancehall emerged in the early 1990s, around the time the original down an’ dutty dancehall was making a global impact in music. With a similar reaction to the “rude boys” of early reggae music, many church-going Jamaicans could not embrace dancehall’s explicit lyrics and raunchy dance moves.

Given the popularity of gospel pop music in Jamaica since the 1980s, gospel dancehall was a natural evolution as a cleaner, family-friendly (and Christian) spin on an otherwise popular dance genre. Gospel reggae would quickly become interchangeable with the genre. Lady Saw, Papa San, Goddy Goddy, DJ Nicholas (who converted to singing the gospel after a dream), Prodigal Son, Lt. Stichie and Kevin Smith are a few of the artists to emerge.

Lady Saw, Reggae Sumfest, Montego Bay, Jamaica. Image credit: Getty Images / Shelby Soblick / Contributor

Electronic music in the Caribbean

Given the French and Dutch Caribbean ties to the European club scene, and Rihanna hailing from Barbados, it was only a matter of time before the Caribbean became the new host for various underground electronic dance music (EDM) festivals, featuring DJs performing long before the genre caught hold.

EDM festivals in the Caribbean started with Aruba’s long-running Love Festival. Its demise in 2014 paved the way for SXM Festival, a boutique music festival featuring international DJs such as Dubfire and Nina Kravitz that debuted in 2016 across the Dutch-French island of St. Martin-Sint Maarten. Given the Dutch ties to club culture, Sint Maarten already had a thriving techno scene and nightlife. The festival brought new, international DJs to these clubs.

I was fortunate enough to attend the festival during its first two years. Dreamy music by DJs Behrouz, Chaim, and The Doctors flowed all afternoon from a treetop booth, overlooking infinity pools hugged by the thumping dance floor. Festival goers splashed about in sunglasses and on unicorn floaties. The intimate setting was pure bliss, refreshingly free of bros, muscle t-shirts, and obnoxious attitudes.

In April 2018, Vujaday Festival arrived in Barbados with a sunrise party, featuring headliner Moses, over the breathtaking cliff of Bathsheba Beach, and YookO’s album release aboard the pirate ship, The Jolly Roger, where partiers swung out on a rope into the Caribbean waters over lush electronic music beats. When the festival isn’t running, electronic music fans flock to the sultry Nikki Beach bar, with its signature orange lounges and splash pool.

Jamaica also started the small but growing Tmrw.Tday Festival, featuring a blend of electronic music and a Saturday night reggae showcase that brings out many locals. Traditionally, electronic music in Jamaica has been heard in its native genres: dancehall and dub music. Lee “Scratch” Perry was an innovator and pioneer in dub music due to his remixing, studio techniques, and production style. Dub, in turn, inspired electronic music genre dubstep.

To some purists, Jamaica rivals Germany for creating new synthesized genres. In any case, the Caribbean influence on these music styles can’t be denied – and the music world is much richer as a result.

Dominican Republic Travel: Things to Do Beyond the Resorts

Thu, 05 Dec 2019 22:59:40 GMT

A rural adventure in Barahona
Offshore escape to a wildlife refuge
Overnight in Valle Nuevo’s cloud forest
Trip notes

When I was writing a guide book on the Dominican Republic, located between Cuba and Puerto Rico in the Greater Antilles, I traveled around the country for a year. My mission was to unearth immersive experiences, away from the DR’s resort towns. Over the months that followed, exploring the country south to north and center, I stumbled on a world of locally run accommodations, community tours, and breathtaking island scenery.

A rural adventure in Barahona

My explorations lead me to Cooperativa para el Desarollo de la Ciénaga in the southwestern province of Barahona. Aurelino, the cooperative’s tour guide, gives me specific instructions to reach their community center: catch a Caribe Tours bus from Santo Domingo to Barahona town, then transfer to a guagua, or local bus. I’m to tell the driver to drop me off “donde la cooperativa de La Ciénaga,” another hour east.

The first three-hour ride takes me into the campo, or countryside, past vast plantain fields and roadside fruit vendors, until we enter bustling Barahona. The second chicken-bus ride takes my breath away as it winds down a narrow, coastal highway flanked by green hills and an iridescent blue sea.

Aurelino and two of the cooperative’s women – including my host for the night, Dona Paulina, and her daughter – welcome me off the bus.

“The house isn’t far, we can walk there,” Paulina’s daughter says. We descend a small hill into a neighborhood. I spot a yard filled with white plastic chairs and children running around screaming, balloons in hand.

“It’s my goddaughter’s birthday. We’ll stop by for a few minutes,” says Dona Paulina.

Directly across is her single-story house, where I leave my bags. At the birthday bash, Latin tunes blast while the kids show off their moves. Strangers kiss me hello on the cheek, and I’m handed a plate of food. I don’t understand their rapid-fire Dominican Spanish, but I feel as welcome as a neighbor.

At sunset, La Ciénaga’s tiny waterfront fills with residents. Fishermen canoes are parked on the beach, and families swim or play basketball. Aurelino takes me on a quick boat ride along La Ciénaga’s scenic coastline under an orange sky.

The next morning, over breakfast, Dona Paulina and I talk about the cooperative life, and the sustainable income they’ve generated for the community from the restaurant, homestays, a marmalade-making venture, and selling adventure tours.

At 9am, Aurelino picks me up to begin our adventure to Balneario La Plaza – a three-hour hike along the Bahoruco River. A bumpy safari truck takes us into a thick, humid forest to the river entry point. I can’t take my eyes off the water: it’s a crystalline turquoise more striking than the Caribbean Sea. Climbing over rocks, and cooling in fresh water pools, we eventually reach a massive canyon. I gasp looking at a secluded turquoise pool a few feet below. Aurelino smiles ear to ear and leaps into the water, screaming: “¡Paraíso!” Paradise!

Offshore escape to a wildlife refuge

My journey continues to the DR’s northwestern edge – past cactus-lined roads, salt ponds, and goats grazing off the highway. I know I’ve reached Monte Cristi when I spot El Morro – the town’s 700ft (213m) limestone mesa overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Locals flock there at sunset for its golden, sand-and-pebble beach at the base of the mesa. I do the same, before I make way back to the waterfront area where roadside bars blast music and serve cold beer, while kids swim off the dock.

El Morro, Monte Christi. Image credit: Getty Images / Jon Spaull

In the morning, Soraya y Santo Tours, a husband-and-wife team native to Monte Cristi, take me on a boat trip to the Cayos Siete Hermanos (Seven Brother Cays), 1.5 hours off the shores of Monte Cristi, near the border with Haiti.

As the boat captain explains, shouting over the motor, the major draw is Cayo Tuna. Every year from June to August, migratory birds nest in this wildlife refuge area – three species of seabirds known as the Brown Noddy, Sooty Tern, and Least Tern.

Anchored off Cayo Tuna, wading onto shore, my ears fill with piercing sounds. Thousands upon thousands of birds are perched on leafy bushes covering most of the isle – my sole companions on this deserted, white sand circle in the middle of the Atlantic.

Overnight in Valle Nuevo’s cloud forest

Warming up by my cabin chimney, I chuckle that I’m experiencing cold weather in the Caribbean. I’m at Villa Pajón, a Dominican family-owned lodge tucked inside Valle Nuevo National Park.

Perched on a plateau at 7,000ft (2,130m), near the center of the DR, and surrounded by dense pine forests, the warmest daytime temperatures hover at 70°F (21°C). Evenings drop into the 50s and can reach below freezing in December. For naturalists, Valle Nuevo is a paradise of plants and wildlife, including more than 70 bird species.

Valle Nuevo National Park. Image credit: Getty Images / photofxs68

I spend the day hiking with Seïor Guzmán, whose family has owned this property for generations. A short trail behind the lodge leads us through a maze of giant criollo pine trees, ferns, and bromeliads in a cloud forest. I feel transported into another universe, when my host tells me to stop.

“You hear that alarm-sound? It’s the jilguero.” The Rufous-throated Solitaire, a tropical bird native to the region.

A bowl of fresh sancocho – a hearty meat-and-root-vegetable stew – warms us up over lunch at the lodge. Walking back to my cabin for a nap by the chimney, I realize that I’ve succeeded – I had found the Dominican Republic I want others to see.

Trip notes

Getting there

Fly into Santo Domingo, Puerto Plata, or Santiago international airports to make your way to Barahona, Monte Cristi, and Valle Nuevo, respectively. Major car rental offices are available on site; highways are modern and well indicated, but watch for speeding drivers. Regional bus service is available on Caribe Tours to Barahona and Monte Cristi, with scheduled daily departures listed online. Valle Nuevo in Constanza requires a four-wheel drive.

Caribbean Food: Tasting My Way Around the Islands

Thu, 05 Dec 2019 01:20:43 GMT

Barbados
St. Lucia
Nevis

Barbados

Through a window hatch at the front of a brightly painted wooden shack, Cuz hands me a fish cutter, his face breaking into a giant smile. I’ve been waiting here, near Pebbles Beach in Barbados, the easternmost island of the Lesser Antilles, for one of its most famous sandwiches – cutters – a salt-bread roll filled with fried fish seasoned with Bajan spices. These are typically allspice, onion powder, chilies, thyme, parsley, nutmeg, clove, and black pepper.

Cuz’s father, Cuz senior, began the business almost seven decades ago, and the family still sells around 500 cutters a day. Pointing to a stack of rolls, Cuz says: “When they’re done, I’m done; I pack up and go.” Inside, a radio blares and two large pans keep the oil sizzling as Cuz deftly fries fish and fires them onto buns, topping each with salad. The fish is soft, sweet, and so moreish I get back in line for seconds.

Eating out in Barbados can be expensive – the west coast of the island is dotted with wallet-busting fine-dining restaurants – but when you seek out the local fare, you’ll find gems like Cuz’s. Food stalls and vans serving hot lunches out of their back doors cluster in beach car parks and “pon de roadside”: fried chicken or baked fish, accompanied by macaroni pie – known as just “pie”; it’s made with long tubes of macaroni, mixed with cheese, evaporated milk, Bajan spices, and hot sauce, all of it baked until crisp. These are cooked daily in homes across the island, loaded into silver chafing dishes, and driven out to meet demand.

Stop by the wet markets in Bridgetown, Oistins, or Speightstown to see the abundant varieties of fish caught not far from shore: marlin, mahi mahi, and the ubiquitous flying fish, that shimmer when they swim in shoals and break the surface of the water. Upstairs at bustling Cheapside vegetable market you’ll discover tiny, hole-in-the-wall food stalls that fry doughy fish cakes made from salt fish, flour, herbs, and spices.

On a Friday night, head to Oistins Friday Night Fish Fry for seafood, rum, beer, dominoes and dancing. There’s always a long queue at Uncle George Fish Net Grill, where the eponymous Uncle George, tongs in one hand, spatula in the other, flips tuna, swordfish, lobster, shrimp and “dolphin” (mahi mahi).

Oistins Fish Fry. Image credit: Getty Images / Alan Copson

Or take your own, self-guided local food tour by hopping on one of the souped-up vans (ZR buses) that pump out reggae music and beep their horns at potential passengers on the sidewalk. Costing $1 US a ride, they’re an ideal way to skip from rum shop to rum shop, sipping rum punch while you try Barbados’s national dish: flying fish and cou cou (cornmeal and okra).

In Barbados, “having a lime” is to party and have a good time, and zipping around on “reggae buses” is just that.

St. Lucia

There’s nutmeg and cinnamon, soursop, sugar apples, limes, plantains – even cow’s milk in recycled glass bottles, all piled on top of wooden stalls. It’s a Saturday morning at Castries Market in St. Lucia, about 110mi (180km) northwest of Barbados. Chef Craig Jones – a big, white, Welsh Rastafarian – and I are picking our way around large, muddy puddles amidst a cacophony of cries and Creole sales pitches. I point quizzically to a large root vegetable, but before Jones can answer me, the stallholder is trying to tempt him: “Look at these dasheen, Ras, beautiful dasheen.” I am still puzzled so Jones – who has been cooking on St. Lucia for two decades now – explains: “Dasheen is like a dry potato, and it becomes sticky when you cook it.” All around us is the sweet smell of mangoes, laid in vast piles, all different shapes, sizes, and hues. “There are 30 to 40 different varieties of mangoes,” Jones tells me. “There’s mango Austin, which is great, but mango Julie is the sweetest and has the best texture and taste.”

Castries Market. Image credit: Meng He / Flickr Creative Commons

But the most prolific fruit in St. Lucia is the banana. Like almost everything grown on this island – it’s a similar story across almost all of the Caribbean – it was imported during colonialist slave-owning times, replacing sugar cane as the cash crop. It features in the confusingly named national dish, green fig and saltfish: green fig is really just green banana. Full of iron, it’s boiled to make it more digestible and served with saltfish (salted white fish, often cod).

It’s at roadside pitstop Red Truck that I find true St. Lucian cooking: stewed pork cooked in its own juices (no water), cloves, onion, chives, and seasonal peppers. There’s black pudding and a deep-flavored cow heel soup, thick in texture from split peas and okra – loved across the island, it often has dasheen or green fig added in.

The cooks offer me a rum punch to wash down my meal. I take a big gulp – realizing too late it’s more firewater than cocktail; it leaves me choking and laughing. My St. Lucian friend Ulrich Augustin snorts: “It is more of a sipping drink.”

Nevis

Sunshine is holding two spiny lobsters in both hands and asking if I’d like one – of course I would. Freshly caught in the waters just off Nevis, a small island near the northern end of the Lesser Antilles, the lobster is grilled and served with butter and hot sauce. I must have it with his famous Killer Bee, says Sunshine (real name Llewellyn Caines: “My grandmother called me Sunshine from the day I was born, because I smiled and didn’t stop”). It’s a rum-based, spicy cocktail with some kicks so secret he’d have to “kill me” if he told me what they were. He boasts: “It’s so good, people come over from St. Kitts just to drink it.”

On the tables at Sunshine’s restaurant on Pinney’s Beach are bottles of Nevis Hot Pepper Sauce. I discover they’re made by Llewellyn Clarke, an English chef who returned to his family’s Nevis roots to cook in a hotel, and set up a sideline making what I believe to be one of the finest hot sauces in the Caribbean.

Picking hot peppers on Nevis. Image credit: Getty Images / Monty Rakusen

In his kitchen in Rawlins Village, known as the island’s breadbasket because of its abundance of fruit and fresh produce, the smell of sweet but punchy Scotch bonnet chilis fills the air as he boils the fiery red peppers down with vinegar, salt, sugar, thyme and garlic. “My bottles are filled with love and sunshine. I don’t do the final bottling until I think the sauce has matured enough – I am always tasting it, it is just like making wine. There’s a point in your memory where you know what something should taste like,” he explains.

The national dish of Nevis is fried fish and johnny cakes, originally derived from the word “journey”, possibly because the balls of slightly sweet, crisp-fried dough are easily portable. Often, johnny cakes will be served at breakfast with stewed saltfish, tomatoes, lettuce and hard-boiled eggs. Also beloved is goat water – more like a cross between a soup and a stew – with hints of clove, black pepper, thyme, and Scotch bonnet in the sauce, cooked low and slow until the goat is meltingly soft. After only a few mouthfuls, I need a bottle of Carib beer, because goat water, like so many things in Nevis, has a bit of a kick.

Native Boat Regattas in The Bahamas | Caribbean Travel

Wed, 04 Dec 2019 22:41:02 GMT

In The Bahamas, the sea surrounds and nurtures each gem-like island. There are times when it tests a person’s mettle, tries their soul, and tempers both to produce a hardy breed of sailors who take pride in their power to live in harmony with the powers of the wind and waves. They are the Out Islanders. Here, seamanship is the measure of a person. They set out to sea in locally built boats of horseflesh (a strong local wood ideal for inner boat timbers), and heart pine. The tradition was born soon after The Bahamas were settled.

History of the regatta
The National Family Island Regatta
Trip Notes
Listen to the World Nomads Podcast: Caribbean

History of the regatta

The boatbuilding traditions here are strong. Each island community takes pride in its own unique craft. They range from Bimini “bonefishers” to Abaco dinghies to single-masted sloops and twin-masted schooners. There are few plans for these vessels, the construction and hull forms are passed down through many generations. In the early days the boats shared much with the boat-building traditions of West Africa. There are many characters among the boatmen, notably Mark Knowles on Long Island. Mark is the man to beat on the one day above all others that is paramount in the demonstration of prowess under sail – Race Day. They say he builds the fastest sloops in the Bahamas.

I witnessed my first race day many years ago off Mangrove Cay, Andros Island. I loved sailing, but I was more fascinated by an undercurrent that ran through the regatta. It was rumored that the islander's knowledge of the winds and waters came to them from an ancient and magical connection upwelling from their African roots. They called it Scratch. Elsewhere in the Caribbean it is called Obeah or Santeria, and its roots are in Nigeria’s Voodoo traditions.

Before the regatta, I gently raised the topic with the regulars at McPhee's Diner. Contestants gathered in this ramshackle collection of huts to eat, drink, and measure up the competition. I was directed to a man who slept on the settlement beach. He had but one arm and one leg. I found him late in the afternoon under a casuarina tree and we talked well into night over a bottle of Mount Gay rum. From him I learned that there had indeed been some “spell casting” in the weeks prior to the race. I was told exactly which sloop would win by using an offshore wind that would arise exactly at 3pm. The prediction was eerily and absolutely accurate.

Traditional Bahamanian sailboats racing. Image credit: Getty Images / Jim Sugar

The National Family Island Regatta

Race Day is officially known as the National Family Island Regatta. The annual event began in 1954 with the intention of keeping Bahamian boat building and sailing traditions alive. The event has done its job. Mark Knowles learned boatbuilding from his grandfather and father. He’s typical of others who represent generations of local knowledge. More important still, many younger Bahamians are taking an active interest in the tradition, indicating that the future is pretty well assured.

In August 2019, the impact of Hurricane Dorian on the Abacos, especially Marsh Harbor, where boat building was centered for many years, put the viability of this tradition in question. But the storm was no match for the ongoing spirit of the regatta.

There’s no better way to experience the breathtaking beauty of these semi-tropical waters, no better way of meeting the Bahamian Out Islanders and of getting to know their unique, seafaring culture than the regatta. Many will watch from the shore. Others will arrive early, get to know the regatta officials and the sailors – and perhaps get a spot on one of the fleet of official boats stationed on the start line. This is the best vantage point.

Luckier still will be those cruising The Bahamas in their own boats. Regatta officials often allow the visitor fleet to moor near the start line, in the very midst of the action. This is the single best way to enjoy the regatta. The event is a visual feast, a photographers dream, and a rare opportunity to experience a centuries-old tradition that is alive and well.

Getting there

Nassau, The Bahamas is served by major US airlines feeding into Florida and leaving from two major hubs, Miami and Ft. Lauderdale. Airlines and smaller charter services fly directly into Exuma International Airport from these hubs for approximately US $600 round trip. Schedules run throughout the week. In addition, ferry services and charter boats travel from Potters Cay in Nassau direct to Exuma, 35 miles south of New Providence. The air-conditioned ferry service costs as little as US $50. Charter flights cost around US $200 round trip.

Being there

The 635 Cays of the Exumas offer a wide variety of modern, quality accommodations, at least twenty with excellent reviews. Most are centered around Marsh Harbor.

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Learn about safety in Jamaica, bomba dancing in Puerto Rico, the hidden Dominican Republic, and more.

Keeping the America’s Cup Spirit Alive on St. Maarten

Wed, 04 Dec 2019 22:14:37 GMT

Learning to sail a 12-metre yacht
Racing against an America's Cup legend
Trip Notes
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It’s a good day for sailing off St. Maarten, one of the Leeward Islands in the northeast Caribbean – sunny and 80°F (26°C), with a fresh breeze. I join the crowd of travelers on the main pier at the capital city, Philipsburg.

I have sailed a bit, but most of us are non-sailors who’ve heard about the St. Maarten 12 Metre Regatta – essentially a mini-version of the America’s Cup races that have long captivated an audience beyond hardcore sailors. The 12 Metre has won many awards for being one of the best “soft adventures” in the Caribbean. But it wasn’t so soft for some of us.

Learning to sail a 12-metre yacht

A handful of 12 Metre staffers work the crowd, dividing us into two crews of 15, with comparable numbers of young adults, older people, and children. Each crew boards a launch and is ferried to its yacht. My group steps onto True North IV.

The yacht’s tanned young captain spots my triathlon t-shirt and assigns me the most physically demanding job on the boat, one of four “grinders,” furiously cranking lines in and out on big spools as the sails are re-set.

Two other professional crew, equally young and tanned, give orders to the rest of us. Everyone has a task – one elderly lady was named timekeeper – and we realize it’s up to us to sail this very fast boat.

Which is no easy job. The 12-metre yachts, historically “the greyhounds of the sea,” are beautifully sleek but finicky vessels built for speed, not comfort, nearly 70ft (21m) long with an 86ft (26m) mast, weighing 35 tons (31,750kg) and flying 1,700ft2 (158m2) of sail. (The “12 metre” classification comes not from the yacht’s length, but from an equation based on several measurements, including the distance from deck to water.)

The 12s were the official boat of the America’s Cup until 1987, when the sports world was riveted by the dramatic races off Fremantle, Australia that resulted in a victory by the New York Yacht Club’s entry, Stars & Stripes, arguably the most famous racing yacht in history. For the 1988 Cup, the specifications were changed, and the future of the 12-metre yachts dimmed.

Ivy, as our crew call our boat, was one of five 12s rescued by the St. Maarten outfitters and brought to the Caribbean to do what they were built to do: race.

After more than an hour, we ragtag visitors feel like a real crew. It’s time to race the other 12, which has been zig-zagging across the harbor, training its crew, too. The course is five legs of about 1mi (1.6km) each, compared with the typical 22m (35km) America’s Cup race.

Another of the 12-metre yachts sailing off St. Maarten. Image credit: Getty Images / Teacherdad48

Racing against an America's Cup legend

As the yachts maneuver toward the starting line, the other 12 comes close enough to glimpse its name.

Astonished, I look at the captain. “Is that…?” I ask.

“Yeah,” he says. “That’s Stars & Stripes.”

We help our timekeeper count down, and swoosh across the starting line seconds ahead of Stars & Stripes.

After one tack (turn into the wind) about 30 minutes into the race, our captain frowns. “We’re behind,” he says. “They’ve positioned themselves to take our wind.” We can catch up only with a series of sharp tacks. “It’s a lot more work,” he warns us grinders.

The next 10 minutes are a mix of concentration and perspiration as True North IV sweeps back and forth. In a decisive move, the yachts appear to be headed toward the same spot on the water from sharply opposing angles.

Heeling at 15°, salt spray in our faces, our boat moving so fast we can hear the bow slicing through the waves, we cut in front of Stars & Stripes at a right angle, almost close enough to reach out and touch its bow.

The good-natured jeers from Stars & Stripes fade as we move away. Another quick tack, and we glide across the finish line, half a length ahead.

“We did it,” the skipper exults. “A slam dunk.” Our shipmates raise a round of cheers for us grinders. I close my eyes, savoring the sea and sun. When I open them, the young skipper is smiling at me. “Hey,” he says quietly. “We just beat Stars & Stripes.”

Trip Notes

The St. Maarten 12-Metre Regatta is based on the main pier at Philipsburg, near Bobby’s Marina, and at www.12metre.com.

Races begin at 8:30am most days, and continue through the day with up to four additional races, depending on demand, at 10am, 11:30am, 1pm, and 2pm.

The cost is US $90 for adults, and US $65 for children 9 and older. Reservations through the website are recommended, but walkups on the pier will be accommodated if there’s room. The yachts have undergone minor renovations for safety, but not comfort. There is no head (bathroom) on board. People with disabilities should inquire about accessibility.

The typical race experiences takes two to two and a half hours, not counting a complimentary rum punch afterward in the 12 Metre Regatta’s club house.

Note: Sailing can be a dangerous sport. Wear your safety equipment including a life vest, don’t mix sailing with alcohol or drugs, and stay aware at all times of your surrounds and the changing weather. Check your travel insurance policy for more details.

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Indo-Caribbean Culture in Trinidad and Tobago | Travel

Wed, 04 Dec 2019 19:44:33 GMT

When I travel and tell people I’m from Trinidad and Tobago, it often results in blank stares. Sometimes people are genuinely unaware the island nation exists. Another reason, though rarely voiced, is probably because I’m obviously of South Asian rather than African descent.

My Indo-Caribbean background isn’t at all unusual. About 40% of the population of Trinidad and Tobago is of Indian descent, which may come as a surprise to those unfamiliar with the country’s British colonial past.

Historical legacy of Indo-Trinidadians
Indian food in Trinidad
Divali, Holi, and other celebrations
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Historical legacy of Indo-Trinidadians

When slavery here ended in the early 19th century, the British turned to India as a ready-made source of cheap labour for the sugar and cocoa plantations. About 150,000 indentured laborers arrived in Trinidad from India between 1845 and 1917. Most chose to stay on after their indentureship period was over, and that decision has shaped Trinidad ever since.

Trinidad and Tobago is a two-island state just 7mi (11km) off the coast of Venezuela, at the southernmost tip of the Caribbean archipelago. Locals usually refer to it as “T&T”, and to themselves as “Trinis”. Though the two islands are definitely one country, they couldn’t be more different.

Trinidad is the larger of the two islands and home to more than 90% of the country’s population. It’s where almost all of the Indian migrants, including my great-great-grandfather, settled.

The historical legacy of Indo-Trinidadians can be seen in place names like Barrackpore, Fyzabad, Patna Village, and Calcutta Settlement. It’s in the faces that you see on the street and the names you hear on the evening television news. A glance at the news will also show that T&T still votes mainly along racial lines, with one party drawing its main support from Indo-Trinidadians and the other from Afro-Trinidadians.

Indian food in Trinidad

While politics can sometimes divide Trinidadians, food always unites them. There’s a Trinidad expression “better belly buss than good food waste”, meaning it’s better to eat till your stomach explodes than leave delicious food behind. Though I have no evidence of ruptured stomachs as a result of this advice, I can attest to the Trinidadian love of food. We sing songs about it, post memes about it, and most of all we eat it... lots of it.

Trinis enjoy an astonishing choice of foods – often on the same plate – and Indian food plays a prominent role. “Doubles” is something of a national obsession; a street food that can be either a quick snack or a hearty breakfast depending on how many you consume. Curried chickpeas are sandwiched between two flat pieces of fried dough called baras (thus the name “doubles”) and served on a piece of paper with whatever savory sauces are on offer. Popular doubles vendors have a throng of customers standing around their cart.

A doubles stand. Image credit: Getty Images / Vince Talotta / Contributor

As with most things, there are always attempts to improve on perfection. In recent years, some restaurants have dreamt up “chicken doubles” and “shrimp doubles”. Like most locals, I view such abominations with scorn. Real doubles are always vegetarian and never fancy.

Curry is another Indo-Trinidadian staple that has become part of the mainstream. Trinidad curries have a simpler flavor profile than their Indian cousins but are no less tasty. Curried meat dishes are available throughout the country, often accompanied by a wide selection of vegetarian sides and usually served with roti (a soft flatbread). When they’re on the go, many locals opt for a “wrap roti”: roti, curry and vegetables folded into the perfect handheld meal.

Like many Indian families, mine converted to Christianity more than 100 years ago, but that doesn’t stop me from accepting invitations to pujas (Hindu prayers). When it comes to food, all religious lines in Trinidad are permanently blurred. Hospitality is an integral part of every puja, and the food provided after the ritual is some of the best home cooking available on the island. Guests sit at communal tables with a large leaf as a plate, and are served a delicious variety of vegetarian dishes. You eat with your hands, and seconds are actively encouraged.

Divali, Holi, and other Indian celebrations

The Trinidadian love of food is almost matched by our love of a celebration. Though Carnival is the preeminent festival, Indian celebrations are also an important part of the national calendar. Divali, the Hindu festival of lights dedicated to the goddess Lakshmi, is by far the most prominent. Hindus beautify their homes and offer pujas in preparation for the night of Divali. Starting on Divali evening, small clay lamps called deyas filled with coconut oil are lit and placed in and around Hindu homes throughout the country.

Lighting deyas for Divali. Image credit: Getty Images / Jeneil S

On Divali night, I usually drive through the villages of Central Trinidad towards the coastal village of Felicity, which is famous for its ostentatious Divali lighting displays. The air everywhere along the route is filled with the sounds of bhajans (hymns). Thousands of twinkling deyas, like fields of fallen stars, punctuate the route and create a special sort of magic. It’s deeply moving, and a beautiful expression of a faith passed down unchanged through the generations.

While Divali is a festival of quiet reflection, Phagwa (also called Holi) is a raucous and fun affair. It’s the Hindu spring celebration, held at recreation grounds throughout the country. Participants throw colored dye (abir or abeer) in both powdered and liquid form at each other, accompanied by traditional chowtal music and much laughter. I’ve learned not to try to dodge the dye, as it’s futile, and getting messy is the whole point.

Phagwa (Holi) festival on Trinidad. Image credit: Getty Images / Sean Drakes / Contributor

In 1994, Indian Arrival Day was made a public holiday in Trinidad and Tobago, to commemorate the arrival of the first Indian immigrants in 1845. But in many ways, every day in Trinidad is testament to their lasting legacy.