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How Japan Healed My Heart | Travel Story

Tue, 03 Mar 2020 21:06:44 GMT

How Japan Healed My Heart | Travel Story

Amazing Nomads:Susan Spann

Fri, 08 Mar 2019 00:17:19 GMT

Amazing Nomad: Susan Spann

As well as delivering our fortnightly World Nomads destination podcast, we share bonus episodes shining the spotlight on amazing people doing amazing things by demonstrating discovery, connection, transformation, love and, like Susan Spann, fear.

What’s in the Episode

00:21 Where did Susan get her inspiration from?

01:05 "this will teach you to brag super blind guy."

02:46 The No Barrier's Pledge

03:18 Afraid of failure

04:34 Why 100 of the most famous peaks in Japan?

07:17 Cancer milestone

07:58 I had a dream

10:10 Susan's thoughts on Japan

11:28 "...at six years old, I got out of line and walked away, because I didn't know what the risk was, and I was afraid to take it. I was terrified that if I got in the bounce house, I was somehow going to die."

13:34 Susan's advice for travelers

Who is in the Episode

Susan Spann is the award-winning author of the Hiro Hattori mystery novels.

Inspired by Eric Weihenmayer, author of Touch the Top of the World: A Blind Man’s Journey to Climb Farther than the Eye Can See, Susan is living in Japan, attempting to climb 100 mountains in a single year and writing a non-fiction book, currently titled 100 Summits, about facing fear and pursuing dreams.

After reading Eric’s second book No Barriers, “a dive into the heart and mind at the core of the turbulent human experience”, Susan signed up to Eric’s No Barrier's pledge, “to harness adversity, break through personal barriers and create a life of purpose and impact”.

Susan Spann “Magic happens when you take that first step.”

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About World Nomads & the Podcast

Explore your boundaries and discover your next adventure with The World Nomads Podcast. Hosted by Podcast Producer Kim Napier and World Nomads Phil Sylvester, each episode will take you around the world with insights into destinations from travelers and experts. They’ll share the latest in travel news, answer your travel questions and fill you in on what World Nomads is up to, including the latest scholarships and guides.

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Speaker 1: The World Nomads Podcast Bonus Episode. Hear amazing nomads sharing their knowledge, stories, and experience of world travel.

Kim Napier: Thanks for tuning into this episode of the podcast.

Phil Sylvester: Look, we love speaking to amazing nomads, because they do so much to inspire us all to explore our boundaries. But even amazing nomads get their inspiration from somewhere.

Phil Sylvester: Today's guest was inspired by Erik Weihenmayer, a blind man who climbed Mt. Everest. Let's just hear a little from Erik's book, Touch the Top of the World: A Blind Man's Journey to Climb Further than the Eye Can See, as it was read by narrator Nick Sullivan.

Nick Sullivan: On a past training climb I had made the mistake of bragging to my teammates that I could sense when we were over a hidden crevasse, by the soft tremulous feel of the snow, and the slightly hollow thunk made by my boot steps. So they had decided to test my claim by pushing me forward and making me lead across the notoriously suspect snow field, below our 14,000-foot camp. "This'll teach you to brag, Super Blind Guy."

Kim Napier: Now, Erik has inspired many people, not just those with a disability, to pledge to live a No Barriers life. Susan Spann is the award-winning author of The Hiro Hattori mystery novels, and she took a No Barriers Pledge to climb all 100 of the Nihon Hyaku-meizan, the most famous peaks in Japan.

Kim Napier: I think I'll put a little bit of a telling in that Phil, but that's okay. She's done 80 so far at the time of recording. If she's successful ... no doubt she will be ... she'll be the first cancer survivor to do so, within a year of completing treatments.

Susan Spann: I have made the decision because I've lived my entire life basically motivated by fear. I had, as a lawyer done that because it was safe. It was what I knew. I had gone to law school because my dad had gone to law school.

Susan Spann: After 20 years of that, I was feeling unfulfilled. And I decided after reading a book by Erik Weihenmayer, if he could live his life in a way that didn't allow anything to hold him back, why was I allowing fear to hold me back?

Susan Spann: And so I made the decision to shutter my law practice and come to Japan and attempt to climb the Hyaku-meizan, or the 100 Famous Mountains of Japan, in a single year.

Susan Spann: At the start of that adventure, I was diagnosed with breast cancer, actually right before I started. During that time I had also signed a contract with my publisher to write a book about this experience, and it talks about my overcoming cancer and coming to Japan to climb the 100 Summit.

Susan Spann: At the beginning of my adventure, I was reading a book on the train; the book happened to be No Barriers, Erik's newer book. In the process of reading the book and starting these climbs. that I was effectively doing exactly what his No Barriers Pledge is asking people to do, which is to break through the barriers in their lives and live their best, most fulfilled life.

Kim Napier: Going back prior to reading Erik's first book, what were you frightened of? Why did you carry this fear around?

Susan Spann: You know, I'm not exactly sure. I really believe that part of the problem was inherited. My father was a very talented man. He should have been an architect. But instead he was a lawyer. I think that's because he was afraid of failure.

Susan Spann: And so all my life I was afraid of failure, and I was just afraid that I would try something and then I would end up broke. Disappointing others I think was more important, most important of all.

Kim Napier: Okay. You made this decision and then dealt this horrible health blow. It would have been very easy, I'm guessing, based on this idea of fear, to give up.

Susan Spann: Indeed. In fact I was very tempted. Had I not signed a contract with my publisher three days before my cancer diagnosis. But between that contract and the cancer diagnosis, I felt like I needed to do it for them. But more, I needed to do it for me. It was even more important than before.

Phil Sylvester: Really? Or were you just scared of disappointing them, now you'd signed a contract?

Susan Spann: I won't lie and say that wasn't in there. But the truth is that when I was diagnosed with cancer, I realized that I had lived my entire life in fear. I had let it control me. I had let it make the decisions. As terrifying as it was, I felt like, here I have cancer now, and I may never have the chance to do these things I wanted to do. It made it all that more important to get better and to get healed and to get on those mountains.

Kim Napier: So why, 100 of the most famous peaks in Japan? I'm thinking if it was me, one would be enough. Susan?

Susan Spann: The truth is, it's sort of a two-part answer. When I was much younger, I became very fond of reading mountain books. I read all kinds of climbing books. That's how I found Erik's first book.

Susan Spann: But I had read this wonderful book by Kyūya Fukada, called Nihon Hyaku-meizan, or 100 Famous Mountains of Japan. And Fukada's book describes a set of 100 specific mountains that he believed, if you climbed them all, you would come to understand what it was to be a mountain in Japan. The essence of Japanese mountains.

Susan Spann: People have climbed these 100 mountains, which was my original goal, to climb those 100 mountains, and become the first western woman over 45 to do it in a single year.

Susan Spann: Now, the Japanese think this is ridiculous because they think a lesson is to be learned over a lifetime. Not in a year. And given the typhoons and the other logistical challenges ... and also what I've learned along the way, I actually agree with them. I am now climbing 100 mountains that have famous historical significance, rather than just these hundred. But that was the foundation of it.

Kim Napier: When you say "mountains," they're not anything like Everest, obviously.

Susan Spann: No, they range in height from ... well, the smallest official mountain in Japan is only 23 meters high. But it's not one I'm counting.

Kim Napier: 23 meters?

Phil Sylvester: Where is it? How is it classed as a mountain if it's only 23 meters?

Susan Spann: It's in Osaka. It's one of the few mountains in Japan that was quote-unquote man made because it was created when they dredged Osaka Harbor [inaudible 00:06:23].

Kim Napier: I might become the first woman to climb that mountain 100 times. 23 meters is very achievable.

Susan Spann: Well, there's a little place nearby that'll give you a certificate if you climb it.

Kim Napier: Aw, yeah, love a bit of a certificate.

Susan Spann: So, I have climbed Mount Fuji. Most of the others that I'm climbing are over a thousand meters. They're significant climbs, but they're certainly not Himalaya climbs.

Phil Sylvester: Is it like a hilly hike that you're doing, or is it proper mountain climbing?

Susan Spann: A little bit of both. Some of the mountains are more like hiking. There's no ice climbing, there are no ropes and rappelling. They're not the kind of faces that you see on Half Dome or Real Mountaineering. They're more what I'd call a combination of climbing and trekking.

Kim Napier: And how are you going with your cancer?

Susan Spann: My TT scan last April was clear. My tests in November were clear. It looks as though we may have destroyed that little beast.

Kim Napier: Wow.

Phil Sylvester: Yay. Well done. Listen, you don't actually sound like a very fearful person to me. Just in this conversation that we're having. Are you different? Are you different now? Were you a different person before?

Susan Spann: I think I faked not being afraid pretty well before. But I think I am far less afraid now. I've had to face a lot of different fears.

Susan Spann: One of the things that I discovered along the way, I had been having chronic nightmares my whole life. Shortly before one of my climbs up in Hokkaido ... I know this sounds really weird ... but I actually had a dream in which I was talking to myself, woke up after the dream, and realized that my nightmares were really the fact that I had never really loved myself my whole life. And in the dream, I gave myself permission. It was okay, and I had not had a nightmare in seven months.

Kim Napier: That's pretty powerful. Why didn't you like yourself? It sounds like you've come from a home where education is valued.

Susan Spann: I do. And I think what, based on this dream and what I've come to realize in the mountains and hiking, was I just never felt like I was good enough. I never felt like who I was, was good enough. I was always living for the next achievement. Maybe then I'll be good enough.

Susan Spann: And this 100 Mountains have led me to understand that I don't need some kind of external accolade or achievement. That I'm okay for who I am.

Phil Sylvester: Well, on that note, another 20 mountains to go. Do you think you might find an-

Susan Spann: Indeed.

Phil Sylvester: ... an emptiness after you've achieved that? Or how you go, how you're planning to do that if you've been somebody who needs to achieve? If you don't have a target, are you going to be able to stay healthy?

Susan Spann: Well, the good news is I'm actually also a novelist. I have six mysteries in print; they're set here in Japan. So I do actually have a target, because I have an obligation to my publisher every year, which is good.

Susan Spann: But I also do intend to finish climbing the actual Hyaku-meizan, and to keep climbing other mountains and seeing things here in Japan and exploring. But now instead of doing it because I will be better when I finished it, I'm enjoying where I am now. The challenges that I set for myself are just that. They're challenges to grow and to stretch. But not to become someone who's worth loving.

Phil Sylvester: How long have you been living in Japan?

Susan Spann: We moved over here on May 14th, which was almost a month to the day after I finished my cancer treatments of 2018.

Phil Sylvester: And how are you finding living there? They're a very sort of deep culture, a very spiritual culture as well. How are you finding that?

Susan Spann: Oh, I love it. When I was in my 20s ... or maybe in my 30s ... I saw a television show, one of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations programs. He was talking with an expat who had moved to the ... and they're talking by this muddy river, and the gray clouds are overhead.

Susan Spann: Bourdain asks the guy, "How did you fall in love with Vietnam? How did you come to live to be here?" And the guy says he got off a plane in his college years, and fell in love with Vietnam, and never left.

Susan Spann: I remember watching that television show in my 30s and thinking, "That guy's weird." And I got off the plane and I smelled the air, and I looked around, and all of a sudden I understood exactly what that man had said to Anthony Bourdain. This country got in my heart and in my blood, and it just refused to let go.

Kim Napier: Just listening to your life, I'm thinking like Phil, I don't see any fear there. Going through a law degree, starting your practice, closing it down, becoming a novelist, heading off to another country to live, climbing mountains. That takes guts. That doesn't sound like someone that's hiding away like a frightened little mouse.

Susan Spann: Yeah, but you don't see in there that I've always still been the little six-year-old who was standing in line at the carnival to bounce in the bounce house, and read the sign on the side. This is a true story. Sign on the bounce house said, "Enter at your own risk." And at six years old, I got out of line and walked away, because I didn't know what the risk was, and I was afraid to take it. I was terrified that if I got in the bounce house, I was somehow going to die.

Kim Napier: [inaudible 00:11:49] an anxiety that we're talking about?

Susan Spann: I had terrible social anxiety. I had to learn to manage it, because of course as a lawyer and a law school professor, I would stand up in class and I had to learn how to do that.

Susan Spann: But the whole decision to become a lawyer was motivated by fear. I wanted to be a writer my whole life. And my father said, "How are you going to earn a living?" Of course, the fear kicked in. That was the bounce house, right? All over again.

Susan Spann: I can't become a writer because there are risks. I might end up broke. Or dead. And so I became a lawyer. And I eased my toe into writing. I did it part-time, while I was practicing law.

Kim Napier: I'm wondering, and this is a bit of a whoo-whoo moment .... I'm wondering whether somehow you were delivered this diagnosis of breast cancer with some higher being saying, "You want to be frightened? Here you go. I'll give you this. Face your fear with that."

Susan Spann: I think that's actually quite possible. Never once after my diagnosis, or during chemo or any of it, did I say, "Oh, why me?" Because every time I started to do that, my response to myself was, "In your deep heart of hearts, you've known, since your grandmother died of breast cancer when you were 12 years old, you've known you were going to get it."

Susan Spann: The timing did seem too coincidental to be coincidental. I make the decision to break free, I make the decision to face my fears. And literally within a month, I'm diagnosed with cancer? That's not a coincidence. However, it's an opportunity.

Kim Napier: What would your advice be, then, to travelers that sit back overnight and read books on climbing mountains, but are too frightened to do it. What would your advice be?

Susan Spann: Do it. It doesn't matter how old you are, or what other things you're facing. It's like Erik says in his No Barriers Pledge, it's about making the decision not to let what holds you back, hold you back any longer.

Susan Spann: My mother is 75 years old. She climbed Mt. Fuji with me. She didn't get all the way to the top. But she got most of the way. She got a surprising way, for somebody who'd never climbed a mountain in her life.

Susan Spann: I wasn't able to climb the whole actual Hyaku-meizan list for various reasons. But I shifted it. Now I'm climbing 100 mountains that are of historical significance. I'm seeing things I never dreamed I would see. I'm doing things I never dreamed I would do. And what I would tell those people is, "Magic happens when you put on your boots and have the courage to take that first step."

Kim Napier: That is such great advice. Magic happens when you take that first step. Now, we'd love to hear form you on what's holding you back, or in fact, held you back, and how you've used travel to face your fear.

Phil Sylvester: And if you know an Amazing Nomad who demonstrates discovery, connection, transformation, love, or, like Susan, fear, email us at podcast@worldnomads.com. And we'll line 'em up.

Kim Napier: Yep. You can get the World Nomads Podcast on iTunes, or you can download the Google Podcast app. Please subscribe, write, share, and tell your friends about us.

Kim Napier: Next week, we're going to take you to Rwanda.

Phil Sylvester: Bye.

Kim Napier: See ya.

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Tokyo Discoveries: Robots and Tech

Sun, 04 Dec 2016 23:10:24 GMT

There’s no doubt that Japan is one of the world leaders when it comes to technology, particularly in its innovations in robots and androids. But what’s it like to come face-to-face with a Japanese android?

Miles Rowland from World Nomads traveled to Tokyo's Miraikan, home of the world-famous Honda Asimo robot, to interact with some of Japan's most advanced technology. He found that while the new innovations in robot tech made him uneasy, the overall feeling was one of pure amazement.

Tokyo Discoveries: Where the Locals Eat

Sun, 04 Dec 2016 22:25:29 GMT

Miles Rowland eats his way through sushi bars, endless Family Mart meals and ramen in the Japanese capital, Tokyo. Searching for a more local and down-to-earth eating experience, he explores with Tokyo insider, Yuriko Yamada, who shows him the not-so-well-known area of Tateishi, on the outskirts of East Tokyo.

This quaint little alleyway-style marketplace is filled with standing sushi bars, fresh produce, and intimate bars and restaurants that cater mainly to locals looking for refreshment after a hard day's work.

Tokyo Discoveries: Deadly Delicacies

Wed, 16 Nov 2016 02:38:41 GMT

The food culture in the Japanese capital, Tokyo, is second to none, but what sets it apart are the quirky innovations and dedication to technique and presentation.

Miles discovers that it’s the Japanese dedication to precision and care that allows chefs to flirt with danger and serve up some mind-bending dishes.

Tokyo Discoveries: Cultural Surprises

Fri, 04 Nov 2016 03:39:22 GMT

To outsiders, Japan may seem to have an extraordinarily quirky side. To those traveling to Japan, a couple of days in Tokyo is a rite of passage.

Miles then digs a little deeper, with his Tokyo Insider, Ivan, who shows him the reasons behind these fascinating Japanese cultural practices, and like anything in Japan, there's always more than meets the eye.

How to Spend 24 Hours in Kyoto: In Photos

Tue, 01 Nov 2016 05:37:08 GMT

I like to tackle trips with little-to-no planning, so my adventure kicked off with a last-minute dash on the bullet train from Hakone to Kyoto. Being lost is the best way to discover new horizons.

The day started early at 8am. The air is cool and the sun is beaming down on us.

It’s the beginning of May – the perfect time of year to avoid the intense humidity that follows in the summer.

First on our list is possibly the most iconic place to visit in Japan, (second to Mt Fuji). As a passionate travel photographer, I was particularly drawn to Fushimi Inari-Taisha.

This was possibly one of the most beautiful things I saw in Japan.

There’s a very peaceful and calming atmosphere in this place.

Before walking through the shrines, locals ring a bell at the top of these temple-like buildings.

This tradition is a sign of respect, and the sound of the bells calls the gods into the shrine. From there, visitors clap their hands twice and begin praying silently.

Next on our list is the beautiful Bamboo Forest of Arashiyama. Having arrived here in the early hours of the afternoon, the place is filled with visitors.

It made me wonder how people capture shots of this place when nobody else is in sight. Perhaps we got here too late.

When we asked around, the trick is to either go really early in the morning, or late in the afternoon.

The forest welcomes us with a calming atmosphere.

Locals are involved in a lot of traditional activities, like painting, transporting visitors on man-powered rickshaws, and walking around in traditional Kimonos.

Just in time for Golden hour, we moved on to the neighboring Nijo Castle. The sheer size of this place is incredible.

As we walked around, we see the castle is made up of different structures and beautiful gardens.

Nijo Castle belonged to the first shogun of the Edo Period, Tokugawa Ieyasu. After serving as the imperial palace, it was then donated to the city and used as an educational tourist attraction.

As the day closed in on us, we began looking through the city in search of a traditional alleyway bar or restaurant.

There’s no shortage of these in Kyoto. Our day ended with a little too much Sake in our systems.

Kyoto is by far my favorite city in Japan. Maybe even my favorite city in the world.

Kyoto has remained true to its traditional Japanese culture. You can still find locals embracing every part of their traditions – expect to see Kimonos and wooden sandals worn by locals wherever you go.

I’m almost surprised Kyoto is not the capital of Japan.

Who knows? I loved this place so much that my next visit could be permanent.

5 Unique Cultural Experiences in Japan

Thu, 06 Oct 2016 05:40:59 GMT

Ikebana: learning to arrange nature
A Manga drawing class
Understanding Bushido, the samurai warrior code that guides Japan
Costumed street-kart cruising
The art of Furoshiki: folding beauty

Ikebana: learning to arrange nature

It sounds unlikely, but the ever-so-gentle art of Japanese flower arranging was popularized by samurai. When they weren’t fighting on behalf of their feudal lord masters, these warriors favored more cerebral pursuits, such as pioneering Japan’s now-iconic tea ceremonies, and Ikebana.

This revelation is delivered to me by Ikebana artist Kimiko Yamamoto, during a flower arranging class in her Kyoto home. She tells me that, to counterbalance the adrenaline and chaos of war, samurai were attracted to meditative activities. The precise and silent art of Ikebana helped them relax.

Like samurai, Ikebana artists seek perfection, she told me. That comment rang true as I watch her painstakingly position a flower in a vase, sizing it up from multiple angles and making minute alterations before finally she is satisfied.

She explains that Ikebana aims to mimic nature. Each arrangement is intended not just to be pretty, but to have the same sense of balance we see in the outdoors, where open fields can flank deep forests, and colorful blossoms sprout from dull foliage. Ikebana artists value empty space, Yamamoto tells me.

This is in contrast to European-style arranging which favors bold designs, with dense bunches of flowers. “Keep it simple,” she says. Visitors can do the same at Ikebana classes, which can be found in most major Japanese cities.

A Manga drawing class

I’m not embarrassed by many things about myself, but I’ve always cringed at my inability to draw. For me, even sketching a basketball is difficult, yet here I am in a Tokyo art studio attempting to recreate a female character from Manga, the famous style of Japanese comic books. Fortunately, I have the expert guidance of seasoned Manga artist Nao Yazawa.

She runs Manga School Nakano International in Tokyo, one of many businesses across Japan that offer classes in Manga art to visitors. This style of comic book exploded in popularity in the 1950s and now is one of Japan’s most recognizable cultural products, collected by fans across the world.

After showing me some of her work, which feature exquisite detail, Yazawa challenges me to replicate one of her characters. “Impossible,” is my reply. So, she provides me with some artistic training wheels. Yazawa gets me to draw a grid on a piece of paper. This, she explains, will guide me in maintaining a sense of scale, as I begin drawing first the character’s head, then its face, body and limbs.

She is correct, to an extent. The body parts are reasonably well proportioned. They are just warped in shape, to the point it looks as if my creation is melting. Nevertheless, I leave this class with at least one trick to slightly improve my drawings.

Understanding Bushido, the samurai warrior code that guides Japan

Some travelers dress as samurai for photo opportunities while holidaying in Japan. But visitors who want to delve deeper into this unique element of Japanese culture can join a samurai workshop in major cities such as Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo.

It was during one such class in the Japanese capital that I encounter Bushido. This 800-year-old code of conduct was a cornerstone of the samurai culture and is still influential in Japanese society, encouraging respect, obedience, modesty, generosity, and self-discipline.

If you’ve ever wondered why many Japanese people are unerringly courteous, learning about Bushido will illuminate you. The young man who leads my samurai workshop, Yukihiro Oshida, spent years studying these Japanese warriors, who emerged in the 12th century and became not just respected soldiers but also political power players.

He explains that, while samurai were fearsome during combat, they maintained strong ethics in day-to-day life. This insight added greatly to my fun experience of learning how to move fluidly and wield a katana sword like a samurai.

A lesson in wielding a katana sword. Image credit: Getty Images / GCShutter

Costumed street-kart cruising

Sometimes, you just have to get silly. Street karting certainly is not a deep cultural experience such as learning Ikebana or Bushido. Instead, it is raw joy, the kind of frivolity that can reconnect you with your childhood in a wonderful way. Dressing up as a Japanese cartoon character and then driving a go-kart through busy city traffic is also something you almost certainly can’t legally do back home. So, enjoy it while you can, during your holiday in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, or Okinawa.

Those are the four locations where Street Kart has become an enormously popular activity in recent years. Wearing a zany costume, I climb into a small, 209lb (95kg) kart which is surprisingly fast, allowing me to keep pace with the cars around me until they pass 40mph (64kph). In a group of six karters, I cruise through downtown Tokyo, and eventually along an elevated road with views across Tokyo Bay. To follow suit, all you need is an international driver’s permit and a sense of fun.

The art of Furoshiki: folding beauty

Laying before me is a green, rectangular piece of fabric. I stare at it, waiting for inspiration. Perhaps sensing my creative juices are not yet flowing, my teacher Yuka gives a demonstration. We are sitting inside Sakura Japanese Culture Salon, at Tokyo’s Shiba Park Hotel, where Yuka instructs visitors in the 1,300-year-old Japanese artform of Furoshiki.

While the Japanese paper folding style of origami is world famous – and also taught here at Sakura – the somewhat similar Furoshiki is not well known internationally. Initially, it was invented as a means of decorating the valuables of Japan’s emperor with vases and ornaments wrapped in fine fabric, which was folded, woven, and tied in attractive fashion.

A Furoshiki demonstration. Image credit: Getty Images / piotrmilewski

In the 14th century, Furoshiki expanded beyond Japan’s palaces and became used as an attractive way of carrying everyday items. “It’s much nicer than using a plain bag,” Yuka says. She explains that, in recent years, Furoshiki has enjoyed a resurgence as younger people learned how to fold fabric around bottles of wine, picnic supplies, or even their groceries.

After watching Yuka again and again – she is terribly patient – I replicate her moves and curl my fabric around a box of chocolates, creating a swirling pattern and a pretty bow on top. Yuka is right, this was certainly prettier and more interesting than a bag or wrapping paper. It was worth the effort.

Top Places to Visit in Tokyo and Kyoto, Japan

Tue, 04 Oct 2016 23:32:19 GMT

On my most recent trip to Japan, I visited Kyoto and Tokyo, both independently and on a group tour with Intrepid Travel. If you’re a first-timer to Japan, joining a guided tour can be a helpful introduction to the country and the practicalities of getting around.

But independent travelers need not fear: Japan travel is very doable even if you don’t speak Japanese. Signs typically have English text along with the Japanese. Most big city hotels and attraction staff speak some English, and tourist information centers are plentiful. And if all else fails, I’ve found if I simply stand on a street corner and look confused invariably someone will come up and offer to help.

Japan is a safe country in general and the infrastructure is impeccable – trains and buses are amazingly punctual, connecting you to nearly everywhere you’d want to go.

With the weakness of the Japanese Yen making the country more affordable than it has been for decades, the question isn’t whether you should go, it’s what to do when you get there. Here are my tips.

Traveling to Japan soon? Download our free 14-day itinerary to discover the best of Tokyo, Kyoto, Fukuoka, Osaka and more.

Tokyo sites to visit
Get an overview at Shibuya Sky Observatory
Explore history at Sensoji Temple
Grab a bite to eat near Tsukiji Fish Market
Top sites in Kyoto
Tour Nijo Castle
Meditate at the Ryoanji rock garden
Hike the 88-temple path at Ninna-ji

Tokyo sites to visit

Tokyo is one of the world’s largest cities, which makes it a fascinating but potentially intimidating destination. But you’ll find, as I did, that transport is manageable. The city’s rainbow spaghetti-map of subway lines becomes easily navigable given its color codings, English-language signs, and a high frequency of trains to backtrack even if you make a misstep. Buying a one-day or multi-day unlimited pass can make your travels easier, as does a Japan Rail Pass for cross-country transport – but keep in mind the Japan Rail Pass only works for a small segment of Tokyo’s subway lines.

These are the three sites and experiences I recommend if you have limited time to explore.

Get an overview at Shibuya Sky Observatory

To get a feeling of Tokyo’s massive scope, ascend one of its towering viewpoints. Since 1958, the iconic red and white Tokyo Tower has been providing views from its nearly 500ft (150m) Main Deck, and more recently from its 820ft (250m) Top Deck. Tokyo Sky Tree ups the ante with 1,150 ft (350m) and 1,476ft (450m) viewing decks. But for my money, the best Tokyo viewpoint is from the Shibuya Sky Observatory.

View of the famous Shibuya crossing from Shibuya Sky Observatory. Image credit: Getty Images / Yukinori Hasumi

While only 750ft (229m) high, the viewing platform on the 46th floor lets visitors peer directly over the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection and observe the teeming mass of humanity hustling through Tokyo. Pandemic restrictions, which had severely limited visitors, are being relaxed, but I’d still recommend buying a timed ticket in advance to ensure entry to any of these observatories.

Explore history at Sensoji Temple

Tokyo is dotted with shrines and temples, many of which are well worth visiting. But if you just have one free day in the city, be sure to visit the Sensoji Temple in the Asakusa district. A towering gate with a massive hanging lantern and frightful statues marks the entrance to the temple complex, highlighted with a five-story pagoda and the active shrine with monks chanting throughout the day. Both casual and serious worshipers toss coins in the collection boxes and bow and pray, wafting incense upon themselves for good fortune. A busy pedestrian mall of souvenir shops lines the parkway leading to the inner shrine.

Even on the early days of post-pandemic reopening, Sensoji was packed with visitors in a mid-day rush. So, if you’d like to snap some unobstructed photos and enjoy some peace, visit early (before 8am) when the area is nearly deserted, although the surrounding shops won’t open until later.

Grab a bite to eat near Tsukiji Fish Market

Tokyo is justly famous for its food scene, with 12 restaurants earning three Michelin stars. But you don’t need to be a high-spending gourmet to enjoy the city’s riches. Simply wander the side streets near at the Tsukiji Outer Fish Market (the old inner market has been relocated to the adjacent district). Street vendors offer every imaginable variety of seafood: grilled eel, giant fresh oysters, sushi rolls, fish stews, dried squid jerky. Visitors need only to point at something that looks tasty (or at least interesting), with no language needed beyond a smile and a few hundred yen (less than US $10) for most snacks. Wash it down with cups of sake for a walking immersion into Japanese street food.

Vendors at the fish market. Image credit: Bill Fink

One fun and educational foodie activity is to take a sushi-making class in Tokyo, Many tour operators can get access to a chef and the ingredients to educate you on the deceptively difficult skill of creating an apparently simple sushi roll.

Kyoto sites to visit

Spared the devastating bombing that destroyed most major Japanese cities in WWII, the ancient capital city of Kyoto still features centuries-old temples, shrines, and castle complexes, along with picturesque side streets packed with traditional wooden buildings housing restaurants, shops, and entertainment.

Modern Kyoto has an extensive bus and subway system connecting historic sites, with plenty of high-rise hotel options for lodging as well as traditional Japanese ryokans. Dining can be as simple as stopping in a train station café or street side restaurant for a piping hot bowl of ramen or affordable sushi rolls, or you can try a traditional kaiseki meal of exquisitely prepared small plates that are presented like edible artwork.

Dozens of historic sites fill Kyoto, but if you just have a day or two, I’d recommend visiting these three.

Tour Nijo Castle

Built in 1603, Nijo Castle was home of the first Shogun ruler of Japan. Nowadays, visitors can tour the interior and exterior of this UNESCO Heritage site to get a feel of Japan’s centuries-long feudal era. The tatami-mat-lined rooms feature shining golden illustrations painted on rice paper screens; some are filled with life-size figures in traditional garb representing historic scenes. Along garden pathways local vendors sell roast chestnut treats and artisanal bottles of sake.

This hugely popular site is best visited early on weekdays, as even in the first days of post-pandemic reopening the castle was packed with mostly Japanese tourists – the expected rush of foreign returning visitors may make it a requirement to buy tickets in advance.

Meditate at the Ryoanji rock garden

There’s no consensus on the true meaning of the 15 stones arrayed in the world’s most famous sandlot, the 32x82ft (10x25m) meditation garden at Kyoto’s Ryoanji Temple. Some say the rocks represent a tiger and her cubs swimming across a river of raked sand, others say the scene is of mountain peaks poking from swirling clouds. But whatever the stones signify, this Zen Buddhist site is a worthwhile destination in which ponder the mysteries and beauty of nature and the universe.

But given the site’s popularity and the jostling of folks trying to get the perfect angle to photograph every stone at once (impossible from ground level says the guide, as one will always be hidden from view), it’s best to visit the site early in the morning or near closing time. Or if the viewing platform is too crowded, take some time to tour the rest of the temple’s scenic gardens and architecture.

Hike the 88-temple path at Ninna-ji

While the distinctive, bright red torii gate-lined paths at Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari shrine get most of the Instagram fame (and crowds), I’d recommend Kyoto visitors with limited time to instead tour the Ninna-ji Temple. Ninna-ji’s main temple grounds feature a towering pagoda, chanting monks, and religious relics, but the true attraction for a tourist looking to escape Kyoto crowds is hiking the Omuro path of 88 small temples that line the hills behind Ninna-ji.

The 88-temple path at Ninna-ji temple. Image credit: Bill Fink

The Omuro 88 hiking path is modeled after a 750mi (1,500km) pilgrimage trail on the Japanese island of Shikoku. Kyoto’s version, built for those who couldn’t make the journey to Shikoku, can be done in an afternoon. Hikers are rewarded with a peaceful walk through a cedar forest, panoramic views over Kyoto, and maybe even some enlightenment as you stop for a moment’s prayer at each of the 88 mini-temples. During my visit, I only saw a handful of people on the trail, making it a relaxing escape from the crowds at more popular sites.

One Day in Tokyo: 7 Things You Must See and Do

Tue, 04 Oct 2016 05:53:13 GMT

Asakusa District & Senjoji Temple
Edo Culture at Ueno Park
Ginza - the Heart of Tokyo
Imperial Palace Gardens
Cosplay in Harajuku
Meji Jingu Shrine
Food in Shinjuku

Asakusa District & Senjoji Temple

First stop, Asakusa! The district is Tokyo's oldest remaining entertainment area with an Edo-period charm. At the heart of the district lies Senjoji Temple, Tokyo's oldest temple, devoted to the goddess of Kannon.

Nakamise street leading up to Sensoji is lined with countless small shops selling a variety of small items which make for great souvenirs. If you're after a snack, you'll be spoilt for choice here for delicious street food too.

Kaminarimon (Thunder) Gate of Sensoji Temple. Photo credit: iStock/magicflute002

Experience Edo Culture at Ueno Park

By taking the Ginza Line from Asakusa to Ueno Station, we arrive at Ueno Park. One of Tokyo's most popular parks to view cherry blossoms in spring, it’s also home to a number of temples and shrines. The most famous spot here is the Tokyo National Museum, which features national treasures and cultural heritage items.

If you're interested in museums, Edo Tokyo Museum only takes 25 minute on the Oedo Line from Ueno-okachimachi to Ryogoku Station. Ryogoku Kokugikan is also located near the station and if you happen to be in Tokyo at the right time, could even catch the sumo-wrestling tournament when it’s held in the city.

Ginza: the Heart of Tokyo

Heading to central Tokyo from Ueno on the JR Yamanote Line brings us to Tokyo Station, tucked in between Marunouchi and Ginza. The building itself is one of the city's most important symbols as well as a historic reminder of Japan's modernisation at the brink of the 20th century. While Marunouchi is a business district, Ginza is a commercial district known for its brand stores and Kabuki-za, where you can enjoy a kabuki performance.

Stroll Through the Imperial Palace Gardens

The wide road in front of Tokyo station connects it with the Imperial Palace. While you cannot visit the palace itself, its East Gardens are open to the public and well worth a tour. The gardens were once part of Edo Castle's inner defences during the reign of the shogunate. When the castle was handed over to Emperor Meiji, it was converted into an Imperial Palace.

Cosplay in Harajuku

The Chiyoda Line gets us from Otemachi Station on the northern side of the East Gardens to Meiji-jingu Mae near the popular Harajuku district. Harajuku is known throughout the world as the centre of teenage J-Pop and extravagant fashion. Takeshita Street in particular is lined with many small shops, cafes and boutiques.

Pray for Good Fortune at Meji Jingu Shrine

Another not-to-be-missed sight in Harajuku is Meiji Jingu Shrine, Tokyo's most important shrine. Meiji Jingu is dedicated to Emperor Meiji's soul and that of his wife. Take a stroll through the forests of Yoyogi Park surrounding Meiji Jingu and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. The observatories on the top floor of each tower offers a stunning view over Tokyo's skyline and on a clear afternoon you might even spot Mount Fuji in the distance!

Sample Tokyo’s Food in Shinjuku

Cap off your day by walking east towards Shinjuku for an evening of shopping – we recommend checking out all the latest tech gadgets! Before you leave Tokyo, don’t miss out on the city’s world-famous dining scene with a delicious dinner in a small restaurant or pub in Golden Gai.

Top 9 Famous Landmarks and Things to See in Japan

Tue, 04 Oct 2016 02:09:01 GMT

Mount Fuji
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Himeji Castle (Himeji City)
Tōdai-ji (Nara)
Fushimi Inari Taisha (Kyoto)
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (Kyoto)
Osaka Castle
Jigokudani Monkey Park (Nagano)
Tokyo Tower

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Mount Fuji

An iconic symbol of Japanese culture, this perfectly cone-shaped, active volcano is the country’s tallest peak, at 12,388 ft (3,776m). On a clear day, it’s visible from Tokyo. Other great viewing points include the northern shore of Lake Kawaguchiko in the Fuji Five Lakes region (which sometimes rewards you with a mirror-like reflection of Fuji-san), or from aboard the shinkansen train between Tokyo and Osaka. Followers of both Shinto and Buddhism regard Fuji-san as sacred – thousands of people climb the mountain each year, some as an act of pilgrimage, others for the challenge and the views.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

This UNESCO site is of grave importance to Japan. Starting at the base of the park, you can tour the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, which tells the story of the atrocities on August 6, 1945 and its aftermath. Other monuments in the grounds include a cenotaph and a hall of remembrance, which offers a 360° panorama of the bombed city.

Take a short stroll alongside the Motayasu river and you will encounter The A-Bomb Dome, the former Prefectural Industrial Promotional Hall, which remains the only building left since the disaster.

Himeji Castle (Himeji City)

Known as the “White Heron Castle” for its white color and elegant design, this castle is the best-preserved of Japan’s ancient castles, and arguably its most spectacular. It was completed in 1609, when Japanese castle architecture was at its pinnacle. It was never seriously damaged by fire, war, or earthquake and retains many of its original details.

The complex consists of a six-story main keep – climb to the top for great views – surrounded by three secondary keeps and some 80 gates, turrets, and other fortified structures. The castle is especially beautiful during cherry-blossom season, but be prepared for crowds.

Himeji Castle at sunset. Image credit: Getty Images / Julian Elliott Photography

Tōdai-ji (Nara)

Situated in Nara, Japan's first permanent capital, Tōdai-ji is all about superlatives. It's the largest wooden building in the world and houses the 52ft/16m high Diabutsu (Great Buddha), one of the largest bronze statues in the world.

The temple's main gate, Tōdai-ji Nandai-mon (Great South Gate) is the largest temple entrance gate in Japan, renowned for its two fierce-looking, dynamically posed guardian statues.

Fushimi Inari Taisha (Kyoto)

This stunning shrine on the southern outskirts of Kyoto contains around 10,000 vermillion torii gates arranged in a series of curving passageways. Fushimi Inari is dedicated to the deity of the harvest and of business – many of the gates were donated by Japanese companies. As you hike through the torii tunnels up towards the top of the mountain, you’ll pass a number of sub-shrines and many statues of foxes, who are believed to be the divine messenger of Inari.

Fushimi Inari can get very crowded, so plan to go early in the day. Crowds also grow thinner the farther you get from the entrance.

Fushimi Inari shrine. Image credit: Martin Hong

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (Kyoto)

Located in northwest Kyoto in the Arashiyama district, this famous site features a meandering path through towering stalks of bamboo. Walking the path is a serene and otherworldly experience (though it can get crowded). It’s best accessed via the nearby Tenryu-ji Temple, a World Heritage site with its own beautiful Zen garden.

Osaka Castle

The 16th-century building is Osaka’s showpiece attraction. After strolling through the castle grounds, you’ll encounter the jaw-dropping beauty of the castle’s main tower.

Inside, a museum tells the history of the building, while an observatory 164ft (50m) high offers views across the city. The castle is surrounded by moats and stone walls while 13 structures that escaped various wars are of recognized historical value to the Japanese government.

Visit the castle in spring to admire the cherry blossoms while relaxing in the castle grounds with okonomiyaki – a local delicacy.

Jigokudani Monkey Park (Nagano)

Head to Jigokudani Park, in Nagano, where you can see Japanese macaques (aka snow monkeys) relax in the onsen. Jigokudani is a natural habitat of these monkeys, and the park was established as conversation area where people could view them in the wild. During the winter months, they can be seen bathing in the natural hot springs, often with a dusting of snow atop their heads. The best time to visit is January-February.

Useful tip: Keep your clothes on – this is for viewing only.

Snow monkeys relaxing in the onsen. Image credit: Martin Hong

Tokyo Tower

Boldly painted in red with white trim, Tokyo Tower rises to a height of 1,092ft (333m) in the heart of Tokyo. Still the world’s tallest self-supported steel tower, it was the tallest structure in Japan before the Tokyo Skytree was completed in 2012. Tokyo Tower was erected in 1958 as a broadcasting tower and a symbol of Japan’s post-WWII recovery and economic strength. It was modeled after the Eiffel Tower in Paris but is 10ft (3m) taller. The top observation deck, at 820ft (250m) high, offers spectacular views over Tokyo and sometimes all the way to Mount Fuji.

Osaka’s Best Outdoor Attractions → 3 Breathtaking Parks

Tue, 04 Oct 2016 00:27:02 GMT

Picnic Among the Cherry Blossoms at Tennoji Park

Open since 1909, Tennoji Park is a world away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Situated in the southern part of the city, the park is a botanical oasis right next to Tennoji Station.

The best time to visit is in Spring, when the native sakura (cherry blossom) are in full bloom. You’ll be spoilt for choice on statues, open spaces for sport, cafés and restaurants.

Tennoji Park is also the perfect spot for bike riding or a leisurely afternoon stroll. Pack yourself a picnic and take some time to enjoy its natural beauty.

Be sure to stop at the Osaka Municipal Museum of Fine Art too, which is also on the grounds of Tennoji Park. It has a wonderful collection of artworks from paintings to ceramics, dating back as far as the 12th to 14th centuries.

Take Photos Around Scenic Minoo Park

If the inner-city escape of Tennoji Park wasn’t enough for you, head further north to the splendour of Minoo (Minoh) Park. It’s most well-known for the walking trail, Takimichi, built in 1886.

Whether you’re an avid hiker or just looking for a relaxing stroll, Minoo Park has something for everyone. Minoo’s trails begin with a 2.7km paved walkway and is easily accessible from the main train station.

Minoo waterfall is another highlight and it’s only a short distance along the trail. It’s an incredible spot for taking photos and enjoying the beautiful red foliage during autumn.

The walk around Minoo Park should take around 45 minutes, with a major draw card being the Ryuanji Temple located at the midpoint of the walk.

Osaka Castle and Gardens

Osaka Castle is one of the most well-known sites in Osaka city today, and for good reason.

The castle itself has been a poignant part of the city’s history for hundreds of years, having been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times. It also played a major role in the unification of the country during the 16th century.

To this day, the castle sprawls across sweeping grounds, which cover over 60,000 sqm. It’s filled with over 600 cherry trees and boasts a moat tall enough to give a view over most of the city.

The grounds are a sight to behold during the spring when the cherry blossoms frame the castle in bright pink flowers, making it a popular walking spot for locals and tourists alike.

Entry to the castle grounds is free! Make sure you allow a few hours to walk the perimeter of the castle. To discover the full history of this remarkable building, visit the eight storey museum inside the castle – the view from the top is well worth the climb!

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How to Pack for a Trip to Japan | Travel Essentials

Mon, 03 Oct 2016 23:53:29 GMT

Weather in Japan
Adapters and Electronics
Language
Clothing and Accessories
Takuhaibin

Weather in Japan

The basic gear you’ll need for Japan can vary depending on where in the country you are visiting. The weather in Japan varies considerably from Hokkaido in the north to Okinawa in the south.

Pack both warm and cold weather clothing for Japan, no matter what time of year you are traveling. If you’re traveling for a long period of time keep in mind the seasons will change, and winter is considerably cold – especially in northern Japan. Throughout the year, temperatures in Japan range from 30–40ºC during summer, to sub zero temperatures during winter.

If you are going to Okinawa, pack warm weather clothing and swimwear to enjoy snorkeling and scuba diving.

Pack a decent pair of hiking boots and comfortable clothing to go on long walks, as there are many great hiking trails in Japan.

Japan’s seasons are as follows:

Winter: December – March
Spring: March – June
Summer: June – September
Autumn: September – November

Adapters and Electronics

Travel adapters and electronics are available in Japan, but you’ll save money and time by bringing your own. Exceptions to this rule are small appliances like hairdryers and hair trimmers, which are sensitive to voltage changes and may get damaged regardless of adapter usage.

Language

Start learning the language before you leave home by downloading a language app or learning Japanese at a language class. If you don't have enough time, download the offline version of Japanese in Google Translate. This will make communicating in Japan much smoother, as Japanese people effectively avoid English – even in larger cities.

Menus may be found in (broken) English, and you may be able to get by using funky body language and a lot of pointing in Tokyo. This does get progressively harder as you venture off the beaten path.

If you’re using apps and don’t plan on getting a portable WiFi hotspot or a tourist SIM, then do download apps which can be utilised offline, as public WiFi coverage in Japan is still spotty.

Download Hyperdia for accurate route plotting and transportation options, Japanese dictionary apps and the official JapanTravel app (for Android) and of course, our Japanese Language App.

Clothing and Accessories

When it comes to packing clothes, Japan is typically a rainy country, especially from June and all throughout autumn. Therefore, it's important to pack a light rain jacket.

Lightweight clothing is generally a good idea for snow sports during winter too. Though, don’t forget to make sure your snow gear keeps you warm, despite winters being milder in southern parts of Japan, it can certainly get cold in the upper north.

As it is customary to remove shoes upon entering a building in Japan, including traditional restaurants, I'd recommend a pair of shoes you can slip on and off easily. Laces certainly do become tiring after a few weeks traveling around Japan.

Japan has an extensive selection of station-based bag lockers in most cities, so a large backpack would be well suited for travelers planning to do a bit of off-grid exploration.

Takuhaibin

Takuhaibin is an über-convenient delivery service facilitating the sending of various packages to locations including hotels, airports or private homes. Packages can be sent from convenience stores (like Lawson and Family Mart, which are everywhere in Japan), or in the case of sending large suitcases to your accommodation you may talk directly to the companies at the airport.

While companies deliver most types of luggage, do notify your hotel beforehand to guarantee acceptance of the parcel. Your parcel will often be delivered within a day or so, with prices varying with the size of the package.

Skiing in Japan: The Best Resorts to Check Out Now

Fri, 30 Sep 2016 04:57:40 GMT

Living in Tokyo, I’m never too far from a snow-laden mountain. Options abound for powder hounds in the archipelago, ranging from day trips from the capital to more remote areas that have enough to explore over a long weekend or more.

Over the past few years, numerous updates have been made to the country's snow scene. While lift ticket prices have gone up slightly, Japan is still a bargain with the reasonable prices and current weak yen. From Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu towards the south, here are my top recommendations for skiers and snowboarders alike.

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Where to ski on Hokkaido
Best places to ski on Honshu
Skiing on Kyushu

Where to ski on Hokkaido

Japan’s northernmost island is a must-visit for powder hounds looking to explore untracked terrain. The powder is amazing, the terrain is vast and the food is some of the most delicious you’ll find in Japan. The season starts in early December and runs through March, with the best weather from January to March.

For first-timers, the Niseko area is a good bet. It’s home to four ski resorts that are connected by lifts, making a really fun place to spend an entire day skiing without taking the same trail twice using the Niseko United Pass, featuring 30mi (48km) of groomed slopes, 29 lifts, 70 runs and about 12mi (19km) of backcountry skiing. The town has an international vibe, with good services in English and plenty of bars and restaurants that cater to international tastes. In December 2020, the Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve hotel, opened at the base of Mt. Niseko Annupuri, offering boutique-sized luxury accommodation, a ski concierge, and fine dining options. Also look out for Setsu Niseko, a new luxury property that opened in December 2022 and was awarded World’s Best New Ski Hotel at the 2023 World Ski Awards. Their concierge can arrange backcountry and heli-skiing excursions.

About 90 minutes south of Sapporo is Rusutsu. This is the place to go for quiet runs and empty slopes, though the exclusive atmosphere has a matching price tag, with one of the country's highest lift ticket prices (and similarly priced accommodation). Powder lovers will say it's worth it, for the combination of super dry snow (an average of 43ft/13m a season) and plenty of space to play, including permitted off-piste runs. Opened in 2020, The Vale Rusutsu is a ski-in ski-out accommodation with one- to four-bedroom apartments, all equipped with full kitchenettes or kitchens, which come in handy as the night life is much more subdued than at Niseko.

Shops on Ningle Terrace in Furano. Image credit: Getty Images / Sean Pavone

About three hours from Sapporo by bus or train, Furano is more centrally located on Hokkaido, and while that means a bit less snowfall, it also means a high number of blue-sky days and drier snow that often lasts until April or even May! The terrain is a good mix of beginner, intermediate, and advanced, with 10 lifts and 23 runs. Off-piste skiing is permitted, and there are a range of other resorts and backcountry options within an easy day trip

Downtown Furano has a decent number of restaurants and bars offering cozy dishes like curry, hotpot, and robatayaki (food cooked over hot charcoal) along with warmed sake. The Fenix Furano, opened in December 2020, is a ski-in ski-out hotel featuring rooms ranging from standard rooms to three-bedroom apartments.

Best places to ski on Honshu

The Japanese Alps in central Honshu have the deepest snow in the world, and the region is thick with ski resorts. While Hokkaido has fluffier powder, Honshu tends to have more snow and steeper terrain.

Hakuba is another big destination with a great mix of terrain and culture. The town has the vibe of a Swiss village, with steep streets and a walkable downtown area. There's plenty of shopping, restaurants, hot springs, and bars serving locally made sake and beer.

Hakuba was the main venue for the 1998 Winter Olympics, and I love the range of terrain to explore, with more than a hundred lifts and 200 runs across the valley's resorts. Hakuba47 is a network of trails that crosses between local resorts, a great way to explore the area on its own if you don’t have time to check out each individual resort. The area is also close to Tsugaike Kogen, which has some nice lift-accessible tree skiing.

A ski resort in Hakuba. Image credit: Getty Images / christiannafzger

Nozawa Onsen is the perfect place to combine a great day on the mountain with a lovely cultural experience. Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort is a place for powder-seekers, with deep snow and over 31mi (50 km) of trails and 20 lifts, including the Nagasaka gondola which got an upgrade in 2021. The maximum vertical here is 3,560ft (1,850m), so a nice long drop for you thrill-seekers!

The town, which has over 100 years of history as a ski resort, exudes local charm, with narrow streets full of traditional ryokans (guesthouses with tatami rooms) and lots of friendly people. The food is a special highlight, with an exquisite selection of beautifully presented fresh veggies and local delicacies (you must try the oyaki – steamed dumplings filled with sauteed vegetables such as greens, daikon, mushrooms, and more). And of course, the onsen – hot springs – in the town's name are a major draw after a day's exertion on the slopes.

The historic streets of Nozawa Onsen. Image credit: Getty Images / Juergen Sack

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Skiing on Kyushu

Kyushu doesn’t have much in the way of skiable snow, but that doesn't deter the southern islanders. There are a couple of resorts on Kyushu with artificial snow supplementation where you can spend the day honing your skills and carving some tracks. Opened in December 2021 in the town of Kokonoe in Oita Prefecture, Kujyu Forest Park Skiing Ground clocks in at 4,265ft (1,300m) and features panoramic views of Mt. Aso and the Kuju mountain range. The largest ski resort in Kyushu, it offers three lifts, five runs (the longest clocking in at almost a mile / 1,500m) with a maximum pitch of 25 degrees. This is a great place for families, with a dedicated children’s area where they can play, sled, and practice bunny skills.

Best Scuba Diving in Japan: 5 of the Top Dive Sites

Fri, 30 Sep 2016 04:40:49 GMT

Karate, judo, and even sumo may be what comes to mind when thinking about Japanese sports, but many forget that as a nation of islands, water sports are just as popular. From wrecks near Tokyo, to manta, turtle and whale encounters in sunny Okinawa, the varied coastline provides plenty of amazing scuba diving and snorkeling possibilities.

Izu Peninsula
Bonin Islands
Ryukyu Islands
Kerama Islands
Yaeyama Islands

Izu Peninsula Diving

A few hours from Tokyo by car or train will get you to the Izu Peninsula. On the east coast, there are numerous dive locations with good numbers of fish, caves, and some wreck diving.

Visibility is reasonable at approximately 33-66ft (10-20m), but the water can be cool. Most divers wear 5mm wetsuits from July to October, and dry suits in the winter.

The islands of Oshima and Hachiojima are popular weekend destinations too. Many Tokyoites take the overnight ferries on Friday evening, dive Saturday and Sunday morning, then jump on the afternoon ferry back to the modern world. Hachiojima in particular is famous for its turtles.

Diving at the Izu Peninsula, Japan. Photo credit: Chris Willson Photography

Bonin Islands Diving

The Bonin Islands, also known as the Ogasawaras, are sometimes referred to as Japan’s Galapagos because their isolation has caused local species to evolve in unique ways.

The islands are only accessible by ferries that run once or twice a week, and the journey is both long (around 24h) and expensive (around ¥35,000 or US$240 each way). However, this does mean that visitor numbers are limited and it helps preserve the island’s plentiful and often endemic flora and fauna.

Visibility here is good – normally up to 130ft (40m) – and the local waters are filled with tuna, stingrays and dolphins. There’s a reason divers describe the water's color as “Bonin blue”.

Ryukyu Islands Diving

The Ryukyu Islands were once an independent kingdom, but now form Japan’s southernmost prefecture. Okinawa is the main island and the hub for transportation, business, American bases, and definitely worth a visit. Further south are the Miyako Islands, and further south again are the verdant Yaeyama islands that include Ishigaki, Iriomote and Yonaguni.

Flights to Naha on the main island of Okinawa take around 2h 40min from Tokyo. From Naha to Miyako or Ishigaki is another 1 hour.

There’s great diving across the entire Ryukyu chain. The most popular dive spots on the main island are the blue caves near Cape Maeda, and Sunabe Seawall which has excellent soft corals. More advanced divers head to the steep walls of Cape Zampa or Manza Point. Popular species to look out for here are batfish, anemonefish, and colourful nudibranchs.

A clownfish. Photo credit: Chris Willson Photography

Kerama Islands Diving

Just an hour by ferry from the port in Naha are the Kerama Islands. The Keramas have some of the best diving in Japan, with crystal clear waters, turtles, beautiful hard corals and immaculate beaches to relax on after the dive.

Yaeyama Islands Diving

Ishigaki Island is famous for the idyllic Kabira Bay and the “manta scramble” where during the summer months, manta rays lazily circle coral outcrops on the reef.

Yonaguni is Japan’s westernmost inhabited island, famous for migrating hammerhead sharks during winter and the Yonaguni Monuments. These massive stone structures that are either a natural phenomenon or evidence of a lost civilization.

Scuba diving the Yaeyama Islands, Japan. Photo credit: Chris Willson Photography

Japan Onsen Etiquette: What Travelers Need to Know

Thu, 29 Sep 2016 21:39:34 GMT

History of Onsen
Where to go
What to Bring
Step-by-Step
Faux-Pas
Onsen Snow Monkeys
Ooedo Onsen Monogatari

History of onsen

Onsens have long been used as communal bath houses, and as venues for healing and recreation. Today, the widespread availability of personal bath-tubs and showers, coupled with the hectic lifestyles of modern Japanese locals, have contributed to the decline of onsen as daily cleaning facilities. However, they are still a popular local pastime. They're also loved for their healing capabilities, which vary depending on the type and composition of the water.

Where to go

Onsens are all over Japan, but if you’re looking for something a little more special, it’s best to get out of the main cities.

The traditional onsen locations such as Hakone outside Tokyo and Beppu in the more southerly Oita Prefecture are always great choices. From the large and famous to the small and homely, there are onsens galore here.

Don’t be afraid to try somewhere a little off-the-beaten-path too, as these smaller, family-run onsen are often frequented by the elderly Japanese with stories to tell (especially if you speak Japanese).

What to bring to the onsen

Many onsen offer towels for a small fee. If you're pinching pennies, you're also welcome to bring your own towels, soap and other bath items.

If you're in Hakone, there are many street vendors selling Onsen Tamago, eggs that you can take with you to gently cook in the waters of the hot spring. Legend has it that you add 7 years to your life by eating one of these. Whether or not that's true, these are delicious and definitely a novelty worth trying.

Step-by-step guide

Before stepping into the onsen, you should rinse off your body and rid yourself of the daily grime. Most onsen provide you with small stools to sit on while you clean yourself, and in rare cases, you may find some soap free-for-use.

Afterwards, you should also rinse the stool off with water, put your things to the side and enter the bath sans towel (although you may have a small towel on your head).

Faux-pas at the onsen

For hygiene reasons, entering the onsen wearing any type of garments is forbidden. Not even a towel is allowed. Also, when showering beforehand, watch out for shower water seeping into the onsen.

Furthermore, splashing water and swimming around in the onsen is generally frowned upon by the Japanese.

Tattoos are a huge taboo too and many places will deny entry to anyone sporting ink. Smaller tattoos, however, may be plastered over.

Onsen snow monkeys

The Japanese Macaque is known for enjoying the heat of the onsen during winter and has become a popular tourist attraction.

Nagano Prefecture (a slightly expensive, 2h ride from Tokyo by Shinkansen) is home to a popular monkey park where you can enjoy watching these monkeys all year around.

Ooedo Onsen Monogatari

Tokyo is home to this onsen theme park, which provides a gateway into the wonderful world of hot springs, yukata and experiencing a more traditional Japan of a bygone era.

Providing far more than a simple bathing experience, it’s a place to dip a toe in traditional Japanese culture! Did we mention that it's open almost round the clock?

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Okinawa One-Day Itinerary: Our Pick of the Island’s Best

Thu, 29 Sep 2016 21:26:06 GMT

So you’re going to Okinawa, but only for a short visit? Of course you want to explore as much of the islands as possible, but first you need to figure out just how much you can squeeze into 24 hours.

Okinawa stopover
24 hours in Okinawa

I’m just here for a stopover

If you are traveling elsewhere and Okinawa is just a stopover, we’d suggest staying close by the airport, which will most likely be in Naha City on the southern end of the main island. There's plenty to do in Naha and getting around is easy with buses, monorails, or taxis.

To utilize your time well, a taxi will be your best bet. Though it’s the costlier option than the others, you can get to exactly where you want to go.

Start on Hokusai Street in Naha, lined with souvenir shops and places to try delicious local cuisine. Next, hop in a cab and head to Shuri Castle, the palace of the Ryuku Empire and one of Naha's most prominent landmarks. A UNESCO World Heritage site, much of this magnificent castle was destroyed in a fire in 2019. Though the main hall is currently under reconstruction, visitors can still visit the impressive grounds and gardens. Don’t miss the traditional performances too, where you might even be bitten by a performing shisa (lion-dog) for good luck!

If you’ve got time afterwards, head to Okinawa World – just 30 min from Shuri Castle – where you can visit the museum, explore the massive natural cave and grab a bite to eat. It’s also a great place to pick up some handmade souvenirs for the family.

I’ve got all day

If you’ve got 24 hours in Okinawa, there’s plenty of time to squeeze in a bit more. Hire a car and drive to the northern parts of the island, where you’ll find beautiful beaches and less tourist crowds.

Updated November 2023.

Head to Motobu Peninsula, a beautiful region in north-central Okinawa surrounded by crystal clear ocean. Visit Okinawa’s Churaumi Aquarium, which is one of the largest in the world and a must-see. While you’re here, take a walk around Ocean Expo Park to learn about the local marine life.

Or take a leisurely hike up Mt Gusuku. This distinctive rocky mountain on Iejima is only a 30-min ferry from Motobu Port. The course will have you passing through the torii gate and visiting a sacred shrine. It’s suitable for hikers of all levels. Though hiking boots aren’t required, enclosed footwear is advisable.

While on the Motobu Peninsula, don't forget to stop at Nakijin Castle, one of the largest castles in Okinawa. Depending on your budget, we’d recommend staying at one of the resorts in this part of the island – it will be well worth the money and give you more time to explore this untouched part of Okinawa.

If you're up for a longer drive, a bit further north of Motobu is spectacular Yambaru National Park, famous for its mangrove forests and waterfalls.

But if you don’t have time to venture that far, there is still plenty to see around Naha. Seeking the sun and sand? Take a trip to one of the beaches. Pristine Mirabu beach in southern Okinawa is only 11 miles (18 km) from Naha. Check out the coral reefs and tropical fish on a glass-bottom boat tour – due to calm waters, it operates year round. Or head to Naminoue Beach, the only public beach located within Naha itself. Perched on a cliff above the beach is Naminoue Shrine, worth a visit while you're here.

Wrap up your day of sightseeing by checking out Okinawa's busy nightlife.

Updated November 2023.