The sight was exquisite - a 6000 meter volcano, snow etched into the ravines and cracks in its slopes. A large ochre mineral lake, surrounded by a narrow green perimeter. In the distance an ancient volcano.The Andean plateau is a contrast of brown deserts, snow-capped peaks and the bluest of skies.Here in the sandy playground of the Andes, shouldering the mountains, I felt brazen enough to want to climb and to explore the gentle, unthreatening slopes.Petulant car sized rocks were plonked defiantly on an expanse of sand. I saw what had inspired Salvador Dali.