Dinner in the Desert

by Chris Rose (Australia)

Making a local connection United Arab Emirates

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We were camping in the Middle-Eastern desert when my friend mentioned this finding an Egyptian cuisine called kushari nearby. Always eager to try new food, I found the place a few days later. As I walked into the small shop, I was welcomed by a little old Syrian man - the shop owner and his younger Egyptian assistant named Abdullah, who spoke English well. Abdullah spoke with me as the older man spoke a few words of English. Despite this, he stood with a huge beaming smile, curious to hear every word. Occasionally he spoke and Abdullah translated. Whilst we were speaking, Abdullah prepared some kushari for me. It was the first time that I had seen the vegetarian dish of rice, macaroni and lentils, covered in a thick spicy tomato sauce as if it was half-italian. It came on a huge plate and was only 10 dirhams, or three U.S. dollars, yet I had to argue with the older man for a few minutes as he wouldn't let me pay. The next day I returned and the old man was eating at a table. He had some long leafy green vegetables and arabic bread which he was using to scoop something resembling a greek tsaziki dip from a big bowl. He indicated to me that I should sit and join him before showing me how I should eat the food. Abdullah was there again and we talked again after eating. At one point, when the older Syrian was saying something to me whilst I nodded to be polite, when Abdullah stopped him and told him that he was ridiculous for speaking to me in what turned out to be Urdu - a language which arabic people use to communicate with Indian and Pakistanis as there are some shared words - because I didn't now and never would understand it. Shortly after, the Syrian man told Abdullah to go and prepare a special dish for me. As soon as Abdullah left the room, the old man started pointing to an object and repeating a word. I realised that he was trying to teach me arabic. I repeated the word until he was content with my pronunciation before moving on the the next object. When the Egyptian was back, the old Syrian man began pointing to the objects for me to recite. Tala was table. Eid was hand. Eil was eye.The Egyptian was surprised and keeled over the counter, almost crying with laughter. When the Egyptian left the room again, the old man continued my lesson. Nadalla was sunglasses. Shabul was shoe. Kleenex was the box of tissues. The last one I'm not so sure about, however I am sure that I will never forget those words.