The deep belly of the Medina's labyrinth

by Rose Zhang (Australia)

The last thing I expected Australia

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"Watch out for the Medina taxi!", Nagib our Berber guide chuckled. We stepped behind another hidden intertwining turn in the Old Medina of Fes. The high spirited Nagib was pointing to a donkey. "He's the only form of transport within these walls," he explained as we passed wild Berber chickens displayed next to a butcher hanging cuts of camel meat. Proudly hung above each store were portraits of the Moroccan King and his family. I soon learnt that everything could be found in the dizzying labyrinth of the Medina. It was like a live game of Where's Wally? Traditional leather tanneries continue practising the ancient craft with cow urine and pigeon poop. The colourful dying wells and its craftsmen depict a rainbow Kodak moment. Uncaptured from any photo is the unstoppable natural smell. Fresh bunches of mint are handed to all visitors, placed under our noses to add to tannery experience. The mints are later used in our 'Moroccan whiskies', also known as a refreshing strong brew of mint and peppermint tea. Women on a neighbouring rooftop demonstrated another ancient craft of hand carpet weaving on large looms. The Berber carpet creations all tell a different love story with each generation adding to the designs. The opposite sides of the carpet tassels are purposely mismatched. "Our love stories do not end. Here, you see is the start and is ongoing at the other end - just like how love is," Nagib explained. My companion and I smiled. The Medina is structured to service different functions. The food and cooking quarter were eagerly welcomed by midday. Fresh and exotic fragrances wafted into the air. The communal bakery's clay oven prepared the fresh loaves of bread for the whole Medina community and its families. Each family marks their loaves with a unique design as identified by the baker and from its ingredients without the need for labels. Day prayer schedules rang amongst the various mosques scattered throughout the Medina as locals practised their religious beliefs. Different religions and faiths co-exist as friendly old neighbours within the Medina. Other old continued traditions include herbal medicine and skincare. Kernels of argan trees found throughout Morocco are grounded to produce argan oil. This is used from cooking to skincare. With so many elements to explore, it is impossible not to wander off deep into the belly of the labyrinth. Getting lost is always a thrill. Getting lost in a Moroccan medina is another adventure in itself.