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Every 20 miles or so there was a checkpoint crudely assembled with whatever materials was available. From a distance, Yusuf, the driver would reach for his glove compartment and take out a single note from the wad of N50 notes and crumple it in his hand before turning down the music. "Sannu da aiki," the driver would say in greeting. Sometimes the officer responded but often they didn't. Instead, they would glare at the driver, at me and then move to the back of the car peering at my bags through the glass at the trunk. "Driver, what is inside those bags," they said menacingly. "They are for madam.....women things," Yusuf said looking at me. "That and my books," I added. Not wanting the idea of lingerie and perfume to linger in their minds. "Yes, yes," Yusuf added. "She is a student coming to do some research." At the same time the driver would extend his hand out the window as if to open the door from the outside of the car. His hands would meet the officer's hand and the silent exchange of currency would immediately create a sunny disposition from the officer. "Safe journey," they shouted as we drove away. Sometimes, the officer would make the driver debark from the car and meet him behind the car or in a corner. When this happened the driver often returned in a grumpy mood and I know he had been extorted for more money. But, sometimes the officers simply waved him by shouting felicitations as we drove past leaving a cloud of dust. Have you seen the fruit sellers that peel their oranges with a razor in one circular motion? Reflecting back that is what the trip up the mountain reminds me of. The singular narrow road winding up- round and round into the clouds. The mountain on one side and a deep ravine on the other side cascading into a bright green mass of vegetation consisting of trees, shrubs and rocks. This magnificent landscape continued as far as the eye could see ascending and descending elegantly as hills, mountains and valleys. This perfect view divided by the streams that flowed down forming trench-like incisions that divided the landscape. Transfixed, I asked the driver to stop, and I emerged from the van to take pictures.