The Otago rail trail on Viking horses

by Rebecca Stirnemann (New Zealand)

The last thing I expected New Zealand

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The last thing I expected a month ago was to be riding on a Viking horse along a rail trail past 30 pig skins draped over a fence. In New Zealand we have a tooth brush and a shoe lined fence, but pig skins were new to me. Pig hunting it turns out is a local hobby in Otago, New Zealand. In front of me more Viking horses carried my companions. Originally this type of horse, Norwegian Fjords, had been captured as foals on the plains of Mongolia and transported in longboats by the Vikings to Norway. Now the Fjord horses are in New Zealand. We were exploring the Otago rail trail, a route typically ridden on bikes, both electric and manual with horses. I had been drawn to the area since hearing talk of the beauty of this wild land. Along the Otago rail trail you can discover old historic gold-mining towns, country pubs and rugged scenery. In a couple of areas canyons surrounded us and it seemed like we were in a western movie. I could imagine the stage coaches and trains both going along this road and bandits taking advantage. The trains now are gone and only relics of the times remain. The 145 km from Middlemarch to Clyde takes 3-5 days on a bike. On horseback it would take us longer but gave us additional time to meet the friendly local people. As we explored the country side stopping in the small towns the locals suggested hidden treasures to explore. In Hyde we were shown a delightful tiny old building which had been both a mortician and farriers. As we rode rugged canyons because rolling hills dotted with sheep. Wildflowers in full bloom beside the trail spread along the river. 97 rail bridges cross rivers along the rail trail. I am afraid of heights but with that many bridges my fear disappeared. Great accommodation and food can be experienced on this journey and roughing it is not necessary. Tasty food ranged from historic hotels such as the Hyde hotel where we had dinner prepared by the hosts, to pubs with great country fare where we sat surrounded by gumboot wearing farmers. Supermarkets were in short supply so bring snacks along or in autumn snack upon the many apple and pear trees growing track side. Some of our favorite accommodation was Tina’s farmstay, Wedderburn, Hyde hotel and Komako Cottages Waipiata. All of which provided paddocks for the horses and a good bed. On Tina’s farm we were also allowed to ride around the farm to the highest point along the rail trail. You cannot get closer to the sky in this big sky country.