The Crown of Africa

by Maulline Gragau (Kenya)

A leap into the unknown Tanzania

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When it comes to that point where you see your life flash before your eyes, make sure that it is during or after accomplishing something worthwhile like saving someone’s life, adopting a child, or more daring, a strenuous hike up a gargantuan mountain such as Kilimanjaro. This impressive natural landmark and Africa’s tallest, free-standing dormant volcano has been the inspiration of many a novelist, short story writers, and journalists such as Ernest Miller Hemingway. The Snows of Kilimanjaro, Hemingway’s artistically successfully story yet, tells the story of a bitter writer, Harry, who dies in Africa from gangrene before ever writing about the astonishing moments of his life. Harry bemoans the fact that he has wasted his talent. Kilimanjaro is not only grand in stature but also in its indelible spirit. For generations, East Africans have flocked to the silent giant to revel in its beauty and majesty. They have revered the mountain for centuries believing that God resides on the peak and so in terms of great need, they have pitched camp at the foothills of the ancient silent giant known to them as “Kili”. This ancient masterpiece was formed 750,000 years ago by three inactive volcanoes – Kibo (centre), Mawenzi (east), and Shira (west). Kibo, the youngest and highest point rises to 19, 340 ft (5,895m). Mawenzi, the older core of a former summit rises to 16, 893 ft (5,149m) while Shira, the remnant of an earlier crater rises to 13,000ft (3,962m). In spite of its lava-spewing past and its location three or so degrees south of the equator in Tanzania, near Namanga a breathtaking ice dome envelopes the crater of Kibo. The snow-cap has, however, started to melt because of climate change and global warming. Nevertheless, Kilimanjaro casts a tall, proud and majestic shadow over Africa standing as a powerful motif for Tanzania’s incredible extremes. The mountain’s name creates an element of mystery. While some refer to it as the Crown of Africa, God’s Mountain, Pride of Africa, many simply view the ancient silent giant as a metaphor for the culmination of the beauty of East Africa. With a fascinating landscape and iconic views, it’s no surprise that many intrepid adventurers and thrill seekers attempt to scale its heights. Although it remains a key test of human endurance, it’s still considered as one of the easiest mountains to scale, with hikers ranging from age 12 to 90 years old! There are several routes for people to follow, each with varied endurance requirements. The Marangu trail is by far the easiest. During the five-day trek, climbers stay in three purpose built camps. The Maua path is more challenging. Although it meets up with Marangu’s highest camp, there are no facilities available for the first two days, meaning you sleep rough under the canvas. While some prefer this back-to-nature experience, others struggle with the lack of home comforts. Keep in mind that trekkers are not permitted to climb Kilimanjaro without a guide. Scaling Kilimanjaro will take you through five distinct zones. The lowest levels are cultivated farmlands which can be accomplished with merely a walking cane and normal clothes. Next is the rainforest whose damp grounds create a picturesque mass of plant life and idyllic winding rivers. The third level is an expansive 3,200m of moorland and heath. It’s here that you’ll break through the cloud line and find yourself surrounded by sky. Beyond 5,000m, there is no vegetation only desert landscape and harsh rock face. If you make it to the summit, you are confronted by a thin blanket of snow and ice that makes it all the more worthwhile. Unlike most expeditions, the climb up Kili is exhilarating and entertaining with its lower levels offering bespoke 360 degree views of elephants, rhinos, monkeys as well as the elusive leopards. Although completing the dramatic walk to the top of Africa’s silent giant is considered an incredible feat, there is much more to Kilimanjaro than its summit. Whatever you choose to do in Kilimanjaro, you can guarantee that you’ll take away more than just lifetime memories. Unlike Harry in Hemingway’s short story, document your trip so that you don’t have to bemoan the loss of the best moments of your life.