The Salt Desert

by PALLAVI KHEMKA (India)

A leap into the unknown India

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I finally made it, after planning for a year and half. The white desert – Rann of Kutch, is a beauty. Situated in west India, in the great Thar Desert, the world’s largest salt marsh welcomed me with an exciting journey and some beautiful memories. At 12.05 am, I was at the railway station, apprehensive and happy, waiting for the train to arrive, clutching onto my unconfirmed ticket. As I joyfully hopped in, there followed an hour long conversation with the ticket checker. ”Please Sir”…… “I am sorry Miss”……. And then the old generous man looked convinced with the extra monetary offering and with the rising sun, I was at Kutch. The fresh air, felt so happy. At 6 am, the salt land was barren and cold and amazing. As far as I could see, there were stretches of white terrain, merging into the whiter sky. The golden glow of the rising sun had lit up the ground below my feet (I took off my socks and sneakers to walk on this part of the earth, to feel the soil). The land sparkled as the salt reflected the sunlight and hence the pinkish- gold glow. I sat there, admiring. People clicked photographs in great perception with sun, some walked around and some huddled here and there. I sat there sipping the Kutchi Masala Tea. My stay was at the Rajwari Bhunga (Tent House) 4 kms from the desert. After a lavish local breakfast of the “Dhokla” (fluffy rice cakes), “Khandavi” (rolls made out of pulses), “Khakra”(tortillas), “Raita” (curd), I made a visit to the local shops. I had not seen anything so colourful for miles as a stretch. There were beautiful embroidered sarees, shoes, umbrellas, key chains, scarfs etc for sale and I almost got one each (paid extra for my luggage to the airlines). These handicrafts are all hand- made by the local men and women, famous for the intricate vibrant designs of mirror work, paintings and ornamentation. I enjoyed the sunset at the salt desert again. Mesmerized to linger around a little longer, I missed my bus back to the tents. The sun set and it was dark and no one was seen around. I panicked for there was nothing but a glowing land in the moonlit night. I ran a kilometre, only to find a few army officers taking back their camels into shelter. And this was it – I trotted on a camel back all along the desert on a full moon night, glad to realise that “all things happen for the good”. The chilly night saw an adorable cultural event, where little school girls and smiling musicians danced and sang to the local music and narrated folk legends. It was a show so cheerful, that whenever I look back at it, I never fail to smile. I also visited the Kala Dungar (Black Hill), a landscape with an enormous magnetic force that made our vehicles move even when the engines were not turned on and the Gandhi Village, where the residents hand crafted beautiful attires and colourful artefacts and lived a life of simplicity and contentment. Taking back with me some lovely pictures (I wish I could show them on Nat Geo), mouth-watering packaged food from the Kutch, some white salt right from the desert itself and memories of the wonderful people I met, I sign off. I made some friends. A woman who sold to me a scarf, hugged me warmly when I left her shop. A man selling coconut water, narrated some excited stories from his life including how his children travel far and wide performing folk songs, a little girl gifted me a doll, made out of scrap cloth. She had made it herself. A few days away from my city and all the busy days, was perfect to reflect on some life lessons. My young ambition of becoming an astronaut had pictures of the moon to be of a particular sort – white, gold haze ball, pearly with cold, pure air. The Rann was a little time travel into the land of hope, dreams and beauty. There is always so much to see and learn all around. Happy Travelling. Cheers!!