A Culturally Rich City Preserved within the Cerros

by Ruben Betancourt (United States of America)

A leap into the unknown Mexico

As I closed my eyes, through my entire body I could feel the plane lift into the air. I remember asking myself, “What are you doing?” But, I knew it was time to find myself. Some breaking points in life can be devastating for many. Mine, on the other hand, guided me to appreciate my ancestor’s country. I set out to a country with a reputation for crime, kidnappings and violence. Mexico, a country full of rich culture dating back to the beginning of time and at the same time, plagued with crime and stigmas that discourage many from visiting. It was my first time traveling on my own and I was nervous but at the same time excited for what was in store. As I approached the arrivals in Bajio, Guanajuato I met my friend Jorge, a local who helped me realize that Mexico was more than a county full of malice. It was a country of wonders waiting to explore. Once in Guanajuato City, as I tried to catch my breath after walking up hundreds of concrete stairs on an uphill walk I saw a colossal statue named El Pípila. A monument dedicated to a crippled miner who’s portrayed as a herculean individual for his courage in starting one of Mexico’s rebellions against Spain. But then, Jorge said, “Turn around, look!” At one of the tallest points of Guanajuato, I saw the entire city. A gorgeous landscape of many colors filled my eyes and I was amazed by the beauty of this city. Homes of every color with balconies decorated with plants and flowers were built within the cerros and rolling hills. I could see the beauty of a perfect blend of Mexican and Spanish culture. As the sun began to set, the vintage street lights began to ignite throughout the city, illuminating the cobblestone callejones. A more romantic city began to arise. It didn’t matter which way I turned to look, I was confronted with picturesque views as the lights gave the architecture another color and drama backdrops became a reality. It all felt surreal as if I were in the 16th century. In a matter of seconds, the city would transport you to 400 years in the past. All of a sudden, I hear, ‘Callejoneadas! Callejoneadas!’ There were gentlemen dressed up as 16th century Spaniards. Many of them announced in Spanish that later that evening night tours full of history, tall tales, entertainment and tequila shots would be taking place. I soon realized that Guanajuato is well-known for its celebratory night city tours which become parades of people chanting as they visit some of the most famous callejones. I appreciated one callejon in particular, El Callejón del Beso. It’s a narrow uphill alley that brings two homes close together by their balconies on the second floor. One tale says that a noblewoman named Ana fell in love with Carlos, a commoner and miner, but their love was unacceptable since Ana’s father wanted her to marry a Spanish noble. However, Carlos managed to buy the home next to Ana and every night they would spend time with each other on the ledge of their balconies. But one night her father found them embracing and in his fury, he stabbed and killed his daughter. As Carlos tried to help Ana he slipped and fell to his death. Now, thousands of tourists visit El Callejón del Beso to step on the third step below the balconies to embrace in a kiss which is believed to bring a lifetime of happiness. Vendors lined up along the sidewalks and throughout the plaza selling tacos al pastor, pan dulce, and roses. Musicians filled the air with romantic music and one could not help to become infected by the love that this city transcended. As I sat down on a sidewalk ledge, I began to observe how other tourists and locals became one with the ambiance and let the Spanish music soothe their soul. As I sat there for hours, I let the captivating scenery sink into my core and at that moment my cultural identity was rediscovered. Within a city...I found love...I found beauty...I found myself. I found Guanajuato.