A Drive on the Wild Side

by Keelin Riley (Ireland)

A leap into the unknown Sri Lanka

There are three things Sri Lankans jovially refer to as necessary when driving in their own country: “A good horn, good brakes, and good luck!”. Repeatedly racing this phrase around my head, I started to doubt my decision to embark on a self-drive holiday around the jewel-shaped isle of Sri Lanka. Having spent most of my previous travels tucked safely away in the back of air-conditioned tour buses, I decided to take a leap into the unknown and rent my own vehicle to explore my next destination: sensational Sri Lanka. For the next two weeks, a very old, but very trustworthy green Mitsubishi Two-Seater Turbo became my main mode of transport. I affectionately nicknamed her Clever Girl on account of her uncanny likeness to the green jeeps from Jurassic Park. It was hot and sticky with no AC, the stick shift jammed in fifth gear and the doors didn’t close fully - but I spent the best two weeks of my life with that car, exploring the palm-fringed beaches and meandering backpaths of Sri Lanka. Granted, a self-drive road trip is not the most popular option with tourists. The roads of Sri Lanka are erratic, with each driver following their own set of rules of organised chaos. Other than the motorway leading out from the capital city of Colombo, most of Sri Lanka’s roadways remain practically as they were in the 1950s - narrow, winding and unmarked. However, once I gained some confidence in old Clever Girl, I began to enjoy navigating my way through the bedlam, it was a cultural immersion like no other and guaranteed way to stay off the beaten track! The orange dusty trails are shared by everyone, including tuk-tuks, buses and even the local elephants. Much to my glee, elephant crossing signs became a frequent sighting on the roads. I kept my eyes peeled for the duration of my trip, but doubt began to seep in when by week two I still hadn’t spotted any. My prayers were answered on an early morning outing to Udawalawe National Park. At first I almost missed it, a grey mass, blending in with the green shrubbery ahead. My worn Mitsubishi brakes screeched to a halt as an enormous elephant plodded out in front of the car’s bonnet. His tusks gleamed white in the morning sunlight, while his tail lazily swatted flies from his backside. With surprises of the countryside around every corner, driving in this charming country never became tedious. Sri Lanka, though only three-quarters the size of my home country of Ireland, is a melting pot of cultural diversity. Driving from one town to the next taught me more about the island than any guide book ever could. The four main religions of this small nation are Buddhism, Islam, Hinduism and Christianity. Modern Sri Lanka is now working hard to cast off the dark shadows of the civil war that blighted it for decades. One day’s driving saw lines of orange wearing-monks and towering Buddha relics, while the next town brought a flood of colour, music and flowers as I cruised by a Hindhu wedding ceremony. The further north I drove, the more black burqas and hijab I came across. No matter the town or village, tourists are always welcomed with open arms. While new crops of hotels are sprouting up all over to keep up with tourist demand, the real gems of Sri Lanka are to be found in the homestays. No more than a room in the home of a local, some of my best nights were spent being fussed over by different host families. Not unlike Irish hospitality, mothers would insist I eat second and third helpings of rotti and curry, while fathers splashed more homemade beer into my already full mug. By the end of my two weeks in this beautiful country, I was left yearning for more. I came to Sri Lanka for its beaches, elephants and more, but stayed for the people and their generosity. Despite a tragic history and turbulent recent times, Sri Lankans are determined and optimistic. They're proud of their heritage, eager to see you smile, and quick to return it when you do.