A Dusty Venture

by Ezme Hollick (United Kingdom (Great Britain))

A leap into the unknown Oman

As rich in nature as it is in culture, there’s no doubt that Oman should be on your travel bucket list, but to truly immerse yourself in the depth of beauty this country has to offer, you must be willing to take a leap into the unknown and embrace its naturally nomadic way of life. With its jagged coastlines, enchanting oases nestled between sand-coloured mountains, vibrant souqs, excessive hospitality and year round sunshine, Oman has it all. For a long time, it’s been the hidden wonder of the Middle East - a secret ‘Shangri-La’. As tourism in the country begins to expand and once sleepy fishing villages slowly wake up to the demands of foreign visitors, I want to share my tips on dodging the tourist buses for an authentic experience. Situated on the Southern End of the Arabian Peninsula with borders with the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia and Yemen, Oman is a rich blend of cultures with a deep-rooted sense of national pride that makes it very much a world of its own. Despite its fast growing economy (thanks to its abundance of oil), the country has managed to remain humble, avoiding the excessive modernisation seen in Dubai in favour of preserving its Bedouin traditions. Although it’s infrastructure has been significantly refined in recent years thanks to the initiatives of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos, it is still the rolling sand dunes and unrelenting rugged mountains which characterise the country. Acting as a gateway, Muscat is where most journeys around Oman will begin. A lively capital city which boasts all the conveniences of modern life whilst still reflecting the slow pace of Arab life, Muscat is home to must-see sights such as the elusive architecture of the Grand Mosque and European inspired Royal Opera House. However, it was when I left the capital that I felt my true journey began. Armed with tow ropes and enough water to last a lifetime, I began the steady crawl inland and up the dusty roads of Jebel Akhdar (‘Green Mountain’). Even from the bottom, the views were unimaginable - clusters of latticed white houses dotted among the moon-like landscapes and mosques wedged between charcoal hills were small reminders of reality in what could have easily been the set of a Science-Fiction movie.Evidently, my (lack of) driving skill meant I stood out as a tourist as it wasn’t long before a pick-up truck stuffed with local men and boys convinced me to abandon my shiny new hire car and join them for the ride up to the village. Sitting in the back of the pick-up truck with Mohammed and Akhmed, a father and son from a nearby village, Al Ayn, I was covered in chalky sand as we zig zagged around the fallen rocks and precariously close to the cliff’s edge. My companions were returning from their daily trip to collect village supplies from the bottom of the mountain. As the jeep inched to a halt, Akhmed jumped out, urging me to follow as he explained, in broken English, that he wanted me to meet his favourite goat, affectionately named Amira. A quick scramble and we began to see Amira’s head poke through the rubble. A slightly scruffy white mountain goat, she nodded her head indifferently as he grabbed her and beamed. Of course, in true Omani style, it was then insisted that I join the men for Qahwa, or coffee and dates. We sat among the goats on a patterned rug as small cups of coffee were passed around and each man thrust a date into my hand. I sipped the coffee; the sweetness of the cardamom erupted on my taste buds at the exact moment that the bitterness of the strong coffee was about to hit, producing a perfect blend. Despite the language barrier, the warmth and hospitality of these men was overwhelming and it became easy to see how Bedouins used to be a symbol of comfort for the lonely traveller. It’s the simple nature of this village life, fuelled by tradition, that’s the very essence of this unique country, something which could never be achieved by simply sticking to the tourist trail.