A four-legged hitchhiker

by Georgia Verschoyle (Australia)

Making a local connection Thailand

There are a lot of dogs roaming the streets in Koh Tao, Thailand. I would not call them “street dogs” however, as unlike other countries I’ve visited, many of them seem to be someone’s pet, wearing a collar, often a little over-fed, and a smidge more approachable than experience has taught me to expect. As a slightly obsessed animal lover I frequently go out of my way to say hello as I pass, offering my hand to sniff, and maybe a soft pat if they don’t shy away or show me their dental prowess. During the day they can be seen basking in the sun outside shops and restaurants, or slowly meandering down to the beach, almost as a vague demonstration to any water-wary tourists still hesitating on the sand. In the evening some partake in socialising in the local bars, blending in with the patrons; with the odd territorial dog letting you know you’ve come a bit too close to its residence, as I discovered walking back to my bungalow one particular night. The next day I opted to rent a scooter for the rest of my trip, mainly to make navigating the many palm-fringed hills on the island a bit easier and enjoy some beach hopping, but in part to ensure my safe passage home each night. After spending an evening at the farewell gathering of a new friend, I wandered back to my scooter, still parked in front of the restaurant where I’d eaten dinner. As it was quite late there was no one else around, but the area was still well lit. As I was retrieving my helmet from the seat of my scooter, a scruffy white dog with almost comical brown spots wandered over shyly, pausing at my side with his ears apologetically flattened as if slightly embarrassed to request some affection. After giving him the obligatory head scratches, I continued clipping up my helmet ready to bid him farewell and ride home. To my utter surprise (and delight) he decided I passed the character test and promptly climbed onto the footwell of my scooter and lay down expectantly. He wasn’t a small dog, but had clearly done this before as he formed a tight little circle and made sure to tuck his tail in. “Off we go!” he seemed to say! Having never driven a dog on a scooter before, I couldn’t help but partake in the novelty. I cautiously backed out onto the road and, after locating some rather small corners on which to place my feet, I drove off at half my usual pace, unsure of where my furry passenger wished to be taken. After a few minutes we passed some shops and a handful of dogs raced out barking at my canine footrest and began chasing us. No more lazy sunbathing – they had territory to defend! A little alarmed, I sped up and we quickly left them behind, barking in the distance. I began to suspect this was the reason the spotted dog at my feet had joined me for a late-night ride: a human escort through the gauntlet. A little while later we reached the turn off to my accommodation, a very steep ride up and down several hills. I didn’t want to risk riding with him on the challenging terrain, nor did I want to take him too far from his preferred (yet undetermined) destination, so I decided to let him off at the bottom of the hill. I nudged him a little with no response, and then a little more, and he slowly and reluctantly disembarked off my scooter. Almost immediately a long-haired sandy-coloured dog I had previously encountered trotted over, and while she had been friendly to me when we’d met earlier, I braced myself for another confrontation. However, my concerns were completely unfounded as they both started licking each other affectionately like long-lost pals. They clearly knew each other, and my heart burst with joy as I sat relishing in their playful greeting. As they sauntered off, I rode into the night grinning like a madwoman, thrilled to have played a part in the reunion of Spot and Goldilocks.