a Khmers local market - its colors, its women & its smiles

by Gabriela Yamin Salmi (Brazil)

Making a local connection Cambodia

Sunday morning and the humid heat was already in the room. I woke up by a inner force as if it was strongly connected to the sun outside, aware of the beautiful day that was calling, my body instantly reacted by the first move. I firmly stepped out of bed and after washing my face I quickly got changed. Having my photography gear all packed, I was ready. I was not very sure which way I’d go once I leave Krousar Khmer’s Homestay. Before heading down the stairs I hope I could meet Farah before leaving and lucky me there she was, awake and ready to give me a few explanations on how to get to the local market taking place on that day. It wasn’t too far from home, only a few blocks walking mostly along a busy straight road then within streets I haven’t been. I so wanted to get to know a place I wouldn’t find on any of all guides’ highlights 'to do's, to see" of Siem Reap and Farah, who got me in that point, was the right one who as a local was able to give me some tips. All set to leave soon I found myself chasing after that weekly event that I might be lucky enough to live it at least once. The pavement road gave place to narrow dirt roads. What a chance to walk inside neighborhoods out of the beaten path. Rather then in busy main roads with no particular beauty on it, secrets are kept into small dirt roads. I kept walking, no rush, small steps I would go. Noisy trucks were now substituted by crowds of motorbikes ringing their bells. People talking and wearing their ‘old but gold’ flip flops would walk past carrying all kinds of stuff. There I was – with a camera hanging on my shoulder and boring jeans on - actively observing all that movement whilst moving and engaging conversation with some those people would exchange eye contact with me. I could see now the main concrete building of the market and many other people outside, sitting along the sidewalk selling their things. Raindrops. More and more of them until a strong rain starts and washed all of that dusty layer in the air away. Light would now find a way to enter in between the cloudy sky and bring magic down to earth while me, I would take some time and remain chatting to three ladies selling flowers on their bicycles below their umbrellas. Simple like this and I was already capturing beauty in every gesture of light. In all of a sudden I realized I entered an alley I could only see women around me. All kinds, all ages, all colors, all smiles. All wearing an emblematic outfit where pants & shirts would look like having been carefully chosen - should I have known how good Khmer people would match their clothing patterns… All those would give a colorful touch to that day that suddenly turned gray. It was all tight and chaotic but peaceful and enormous at the same time. Handmade baskets full of fruits of all colors, flowers and herbs are commercialized. Narrow roads and fishes jumping out of their bowls. What a scenery I will never forget. Baby ones and elder ones. Strong hair or baldhead or hiding inside long hats, wearing flowered dresses or wearing pants. People carrying their babies on their hips and riding their bikes. Cutting all sorts of meat or even preparing fresh coconut milk to sell. Within them I felt so embraced and since ever a subtle connection has been established I had their approval and all that moment became comfortable enough for me to take the most beautiful portraits of a Sunday I could ever get. I got trespassed by their smile and empathy, by sunlight & rain and our hearts connected. Through the lens our souls met. Spontaneity took place and guided me all day and this is how I was able to communicate with each one of them. Capturing moments & portraits which I collect and forever thank all beautiful authentic women of Siem Reap.