A lime & 8 Tortillas

by Jeffrey Kendall (New Zealand)

Making a local connection Guatemala

I had avocado, tomatoes, coriander and salt at hostel. I'd just bought beans and jalapenos. All I needed was lime and tortillas for my tacos. Walking up the Lanquin "high street", a roller door was up on my right, the large window cavity exposing the make-shift shop inside a fairly empty room. An attractive woman in her mid 20s was sitting at the table watching the school kids play in the adjacent school. Her granizadas ingredients were laid out in front of her to entice purchases of the cups of grated ice with flavoured syrup and candy poured over the top. She also had a bowl of limes. Receiving a "buenos tardes" and a large, beautiful smile, she quoted me 2 quetzal and I could pick whichever I wanted. As an after thought, I asked her if there was a place nearby selling fresh tortilla. If I was willing to wait, she could make them at a cost of 4 for 1 Quetzal (USD$0.13 cents???). Ordering 8, I tried to keep my sunburned skin out of the late-afternoon sun. The gas on the stove ignited with a woosh and she pulled out a large plastic bowl of pre-made tortilla dough. She took her first handful and started patting the dough flat by flipping her hands from one side to another. Small talk ensued, initially she queried meabout what I thought of Semuc Champey and then Guatemala in general, to which I assured her that it had been life changing. Her name was Anna. Unlike most of the woman in the village, she was not wearing the gorgeous and colourfully woven dresses and intricately embroidered shirts so common in Guatemala, but was wearing jeans and a sleeveless t-shirt that had a rainbow of stripes running horizontally over it. She had tastefully applied make-up on, as well as earrings. Her hair pulled back into a simple pony tail. The ubiquitous sandals completing the ensemble. Mid way through smoothing out another tortilla's round edge, she stopped, reached under the table and handed me a wooden stool to sit on. Her large smile still beaming. A local dog quickly sat between my legs and it enjoyed being scratched behind the ears as Anna and I chatted, merrily. I could understand her Spanish as well. I was really enjoying this connection. Three young girls ran up next to me and yelled something to Anna which, was said too quickly for me to interpret. Maybe it was said in Q'eqchi, the local Mayan dialect. She looked up from the stove and reaching for more dough, I thought I understood her reply with "you can do it". Two of the three kids ran around to the side of the building and entered the kitchen's side door. One put money into a wooden box and took out change which, she showed to Anna, who confirmed it was correct. The other girl pulled three frozen bananas out of a chest freezer. They had been mounted on ice block sticks and covered in chocolate and ground nuts. This girl handed a banana out the window to her friend who was busy asking me the usual "where are you from". A moment later, all three girls were running down the street, frozen fruit treat in-hand. We joked about the shop being self-service. Lifting the edges, Anna decided that the tortillas were ready and she started packing them into a plastic bag for me to carry home as the pleasant conversation continued. Despite the jungle humidity, steam was drifting out the top of the bag. A quick spin with her well practiced fingers, the bag was knotted and it was then put inside another so I wouldn't burn myself carrying them. She thanked me for the modest purchase and I thanked her for making the tortillas and her enjoyable and friendly conversation. With our farewells said, As I walked up the steep inclined street, I realised that I now had a big smile on my face and a spring in my step. Anna's gentle, warm and welcoming persona had improved my afternoon considerably. Actually, she was the best part of my day. I think I will buy tortillas tomorrow as well.