A magistral way to the unknown

by Melanie Vendeville (France)

A leap into the unknown Indonesia

It is early in the morning, as I look through the plane’s window. The sky is overall bright and light grey clouds are covering the majestic valley of Baliem. Here it is, the place I have decided to start the new journey of the year. Here it is, the long mountain chain along both sides of the Baliem river. Here it will be, a week trekking alone on this preserved Papua land of Indonesia. That is a first -solo trek to an unknown place- but, surprisingly, I am not afraid and excitement, haste, are taking over. As the plane lands and I make my way out of the airport, I think of what need to get done before I can actually start the trek: snacks and water provision, police registration for trek permit obtention, and most important : orientation to get to the starting place of the trek. Snacks and water are packed. On my way to the police station, I get offered a surprising but not less unpleasant escort from Melina, to who I asked for directions. Melina, a tiny smiling woman in her late thirty, kindly starts walking along with me. First encounter and human-interaction in the region. Those “first” are always special. We exchange basic words, reaching quickly the limit of my bahasa Indonesia vocabulary. However, I make myself understood, Melina’s eyes opening so big, testimoning surprise, fear and maybe a touch of craziness, seeing this foreigner I am, going to this valley she never been, and probably where anybody around her had never or would ever been going. Past months releases’ over the news have not being encouraging positively neither to go there, and still, local people seem worried, afraid, refraining themselves from discovering this piece of their homeland. We separate at the last intersection from which we can see the police station. We have a warm embrace as we knew each other for long, not that couple of minutes we just have spent, and, Melina slowly slides to my wrist a traditional Papua bracelet made of coconut wood. I immediately feel charged in good energy and by taken this bracelet with me on the journey, I am somehow taking her with me. This encounter is a very particular one. I feel at that right moment that this might be the first of many more to come. Adventure will tell. Trekking permit is obtained from the police, along with advices from officers not to go alone neither unaccompanied on the trek, exactly the opposite I will be doing. Usually following the local recommendations’ while travelling, this time and for some reason, my mind is set up for this trip alone and it feels like nothing can make me deviated from it. Plus, I am carrying with me an emergency kit in case anything happen. I walk toward the city center, market coloured streets with fruits, veggies and other food sold by farmers, who probably took them all the way down the valley. I ask for directions and head toward the east. Quickly seeing a sign on the road indicating “Kurima”. This is it, starting point of the trek. That is a warmup walk of about 20km. I continue walking along the sandy road, motorbikes are belling while passing, until one actually stops. Late fifty man called Farouk asks what am I doing alone and where am I heading to, then offers me a lift to the village where I am actually going. That an easy one ! I will skip the warmup walk for now, these strengths would be surely needed later on the trek, and I happily accept. On the back of the motorbike, my hands securely holding the back rack, Farouk keeps telling me to please be careful trekking. Soon we leave behind the city, cars, motorbikes and related noises, to enter a rocky-only land. Magnificent mountain chain on both sides, the trek trail is taking shape slowly from down the valley on my left side. I cannot stop keep looking at it, I cannot be more impatient to start walking it, to discover what this nature has as wonders to offer, as human wonders’ met on the way have already been so far, magistral.