A Mexican Cave of Wonders

by Liese Savage (Australia)

I didn't expect to find Mexico

As I walk down the steps leading into the restaurant nestled within a cave, I can't remember anything that’s led me to this point in my Mexican travel adventure. It no longer matters that I’m a hot mess from climbing the pyramids at Teotihuacan all morning (not my finest moment), nor do I care about having to climb more stairs on my way out later. Nothing else fills my focus except for the party that’s happening beneath me, deep into the cave of La Gruta. Barely a five minute car ride from the pyramids, the hidden restaurant is popular with locals and tourists alike, boasting authentic ancient Mexican food, music, and indigenous dancing. The heathen that I am, I found out about it on Pinterest but thought it too expensive for my shoestring budget. That was, until my friend and makeshift tour guide decides that I can’t leave Mexico without experiencing “the secret gem hidden under the pyramids”. Who in their right minds would give up an opportunity like that? We give our names to the host and wait in the shade of the surrounding trees with a cool drink sold by street vendors. My friend and I decide to spend our time on a swinging bench while sipping our michelada beer, happy for the respite from the glaring sun and the crowds we had to deal with at Teotihuacan. Even though it’s midday on a Saturday, the wait isn’t long and in the peacefulness of the shade, thirty minutes feels like five. We take our unfinished drinks deep into the cave and are seated at the very back - right next to a wall of lit tea-light candles haphazardly placed within the rock face. It gives off a mystical ambiance where anything is possible and before I know it, I’m eating barbecued grasshoppers on homemade blue corn tortillas. The luck I’ve experienced throughout my Mexico trip extends into the cave as we are treated to one of only two dance performances of the day. The music echoes through the cave and everyone - locals and tourists - are completely entranced by the twirling dresses, intricate footwork, and even a fire catching display. Although the restaurant is labelled as expensive (three out of four $’s on Google), it’s actually reasonably priced for the amount of food you get. My companion and I order the grasshoppers (delicious and no, they don’t taste anything like chicken) and a appetiser of guacamole and pork rind, and we’re completely sated for around USD$45. As we pay our waiter tells us the story of the cave - in ancient times it was blessed by the gods to be a place of spiritual healing and restoration for all who journey here. “Your old life died as you walked down the stairs into the cave,” he tells us and for once my cynicism doesn’t rear its ugly head. “While you have enjoyed the food and dances here, you are being prepared for the new you that will emerge when you ascend the stairs and leave.” With this, he gives us each a tea-light and lights them for us with his own candle. “This candle is a symbol of your spirit. Take it and place it within the cave, leaving a part of you here to be cared for by the spirit of Mexico.” The man doesn’t need to tell me twice. Adventuring farther into the cave littered with tea-lights fulfils all of my Indiana Jones fantasies, adding to the wonder of the day. My friend and I leave our candles as high up as possible, hoping that some of the luck we’ve been carrying around for days will somehow make its way to more deserving hosts. We walk up the stairs as free and reborn spirits, journeying towards the sun and into our next adventure. La Gruta Teotihuacan is open every day 11am to 7pm. Meals range from USD$4 to USD$20 and cocktails are standard at USD$8. Reservations welcomed but not required.