A Mythical Meeting

by Sophie Biddick (United Kingdom (Great Britain))

A leap into the unknown Ghana

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Nestled deep in the depths of Northern Ghana lies the ancient town of Paga. I had heard rumours of the town before embarking to Ghana. The town of Paga and its infamous Croc-Pond… the home to a bask of legendary beasts and most congenial crocodiles on the planet. As we bundled into our mini-bus heading north from our volunteer base in Bolgatanga the anticipation rose. Would the two-hour bumpy journey in the sweltering heat be worth it? Was there really any truth behind the mythical tales and harmonious unity between the people of Paga and their crocodiles? Upon our arrival our guide ushered us straight towards the sacred lake. With no rifle or weapon in sight we were immediately amongst the swarms of crocodiles loitering in the long grass on the lake banks or basking in the hot midday sun. The tension crescendoed in unison with the prickling heat as we initially held back on the reservation at the furthest point away from the lake banks and crocodiles. ‘Don’t be scared… come’. Our guide motioned for us to venture further amongst the beasts; their scaly skin so thick and rugged they could be mistaken for ancient rock formations. As we descended towards the creatures it seemed impossible to believe that these docile beings could turn around and sprint at 30km/h, snapping with their formidable jaws and possessing the most powerful bite of all animals. ‘Do not worry, they’re very friendly’. We huddled close around our guide, armoured only with a thin wooden stick, as he explained the myths behind the scared pond and centuries of unity between the villagers and beasts. He described the legend dating back hundreds of years to when a tribesman ran to the edge of the lake desperately attempting to evade a lion attack only to be greeted by a crocodile in the shallow waters. In this moment, trapped between two of the deadliest predators in the world, the man made a pact with the crocodile that if he could save him from the lion no harm would ever be inflicted on the crocodiles of Paga and mankind would eternally protect them. Since the crocodile obliged his plea the villagers and crocodiles have co-habited in a harmonious unity. As we looked around the lake at the almighty beasts ambivalently sunning themselves and surrounding us, he explained how his ancestors souls were all around us, as locals believe their ancestors spirits are reincarnated and embodied in crocodiles of Paga. He reiterated this belief, stating how many significant local deaths have often coincided with infant crocodile births over the years. Once we had eased into our new surroundings and adjusted to our formidable companions we were invited to pose for pictures and even stroke the creatures if we dared. Despite their historic friendship with the villagers the crocodiles were far from domesticated pets as they remained wild creatures roaming freely in their natural habitat. As we approached them, their mouths hung open, as if to smile at us with their rows of teeth comically gleaming in the sun’s reflection. Brimming with apprehension I stretched out my arm to stroke one of the crocodiles which our guide later informed us was one of Paga’s most ancient crocodiles at nearly one hundred years old. Its scales felt coarse against my skin and I smiled pondering if one of Paga’s ancestors had really transgressed into this ancient beast’s body. There was something mythical about the calming co-existence and peaceful aurar enshrouding the lake. As we looked on in awe at the young children jumping in to swim with the beasts and women washing their clothes at the edge of the lake amongst the basks of crocodiles it seemed fitting that only a supernatural element could truly explain such a perplexing unison between two species.