Across the border by walk

by Joseph Issac (India)

Making a local connection India

Moreah is an Indian border town located in India – Mayanmar (Burma) border, around 100 kms from Imphal – the capital of Manipur, from where vehicles are available on a sharing basis to reach there. I wanted to visit this place for a long time but the situations were not favorable due to strikes, roadblocks, and landslides. So I waited for a favorable time. I started my journey early, as 3 plus hours are required to cover the 108 Km stretch of road that hugs the mountain terrain and passes through a couple of army checkpoints. The Herds of cattle grazing in the vast green fields were occasionally spotted as the road went through the plane lands of Thoubal and Kakching reaching Pallel Mamang Leikal - a small town downhill. From Pallel the road begins to ascent and into a while of the journey from there, the entire view of the place is contrasting to which I have seen before. Only the folds of lush green mountain ranges extending to a far of distance beyond the sight can be seen which presented a sublime panorama throughout the delightful road that progressed through the mountains. A few places on the way, the road widening was underway and the evidence of the recent landslides was clearly visible. This road trip filled me with awe and intimidation due to the risky terrain. After crossing a couple of army checkpoints I reached the border town. The town as such is small and the old fashioned shops built out of wood made me feel as if I have time traveled. There are various kinds of shops on both sides of the busy narrow street congested by carts – parked on either side of the road which leads to the border gate, with an arch built across it, which reads “INDO MYANMAR FRIENDSHIP GATE”. This was the first time I was about to cross an international border by walk, the thought of which excited me. To cross the border passport is not mandatory but any ID proof and a nominal fee, which permits us to stay on the other side till 4:30 PM. On the other side of the border, there is a small market with various shops similar to that of the Indian side called as Namphalong market. They sell a variety of goods from handmade artifacts to liquors and large cigars. Alcohol was served in restaurants like soft drinks as opposed to that in Moreah as Manipur is a dry state. On both sides of the road, there were money exchanger’s kiosks. Though Kyats is the official currency of Myanmar, Indian Rupees are also accepted by the merchants. Indeed they have suffered during the time of demonetization because of this. People here mainly speak Burmese, Tamil, and Manipuri. I hired an auto-rickshaw to reach the nearby market called Tamu in Burma which is located 5 km southeast to the border. This market was built as a complex housing in various shops. I strolled through the market and purchased a few souvenirs for myself. When came out of the market, I saw a Buddhist monastery situated uphill, known as the Tamu Buddhist Temple. Ignoring the scorching Sun I reached there by walk. The monastery was serene and hush encompassing few tall statues, a big bell adjacent to the Stupa, a couple of concrete buildings, a graceful tower with stairs leading to the top and a small but beautiful roofed main entrance with stairs. Though they used tin sheets as roofing for the stairway, its side constructions made of wood to support the roof and the worn-out stairs gave an antique and a graceful look. The classroom which is barely a roofed enclosure consisting of a blackboard and few desks and benches served as a symbol of their humbleness. The ambiance of the place gave me a rejuvenating feel. There were many traditionally constructed wooden houses in the locality in black color gained through the constant exposure of harsh sunlight over a period of time, giving an antique touch and an elegant look. After spending time in Tamu I went back to Moreah and spent the rest of the day strolling the market trying their local cuisine.