Being Lost in Surabaya

by Evimeinar Nasution (Canada)

Making a local connection Indonesia

A concerted effort to preserve our heritage is a vital link to our cultural, educational, aesthetic, inspirational and economic legacies - all of the things that quite literally make us who we are - Steve Berry. In the current days, this old Surabaya part of town still has its charm for people who love to connect with heritage and locals. It’s fascinated, rich and diverse. Yet, these multicultural locals live side by side in peace which we can see through the way of life and foods. Back in the Dutch era, it was divided into Chinatown on the southern part of Kalimas and the northern part was the Arab & Malay (any Indonesians categorized as one) villages with Kembang Jepun road as the boundary. The Dutch themselves lived in western part which later founded the "Little Europe" community.⁣ To cover the Indonesian district, I chose to go to Pasar Pabean (Pabean Market) early morning and had my breakfast there where it is a place to reminiscing the architecture by looking at the Neo-Classic gate of the Pasar and human interaction part through trading activities as it’s the oldest and largest fish market in Surabaya. Pasar Pabean was established during the Dutch colonialism in 1849 and underwent a permanent building in 1930. As the largest fish market in the city, it is a central for fresh ocean fish sales and trades between traders of smaller traditional markets in Surabaya to buy fish supplies. Around 7 A.M, after enjoying the trading activities, my stomach was giving me an alarm that I needed to look for a local a breakfast at a small eatery (known as Warung or Depot) inside the market. Not far from where I wandered around, a legendary food stall, Warung Nasi Madura Bu Moa was my choice to get Nasi Madura (Madura Style Rice). This 3rd generation of food stall still exists with the same menu and quality. The best part of eating at this Warung is not only about the foods but the pleasure of observing human interactions between other merchants (such as fruit or vegetable or spics vendors) near by the warung and customers. A sheet of banana leaves was ready to be a plate of rice with my choice of Peyek Urang (Shrimp Fritters), Fried Tongkol (Skipjack Tuna), Fried Babat (Cow’s Tripe) and savoury crunchy omellete. Kuah Semur (sweetened stew broth) was drizzled over the rice and a spicy Sambal Pencit (Green Mango Sambal) is a must to company a set of Nasi Madura. A sensation of spicy and sour from the sambal was merged perfectly with savoury shrimp, tuna and cow’s tripe. It was unbelievably SATISFACTION. Moving along the oldest Chinese temple in Su, Hok An Kiong or known as Klenteng Coklat or Klenteng Slompretan was my pick for Chinese district. A great smile from the temple’s caretaker was welcoming. People come here either they want to pray or just want to enjoy the beauty of old history like what I did. Initially, it was built in 1821 as a shelter for Chinese ship’s crews that were docking at the Surabaya port who brought the statue of Ma Co Po to be worshipped, which was beginning of this Temple. I didn’t forget to stop by at Pasar Atom. Heaven for foodies. Many different Chinese Indonesian style dishes are sold. Kartiko was one of my options. Most of the time, my eyes are hungrier than my stomach can handle. Some snacks were picked such as Lemper (Stuffed Rice Roll with Chicken and Wrapped in Banana Leaves) and Pastel (similar to empanda) and Es Sinom (Iced Young Tamarind Leaves). In the late afternoon, I kept strolling toward the Arab neighbourhood and enjoying where they do business of selling perfumes and essential oils. At the end of the day, I stopped by at Depot Ampel to enjoy Surabayan style Middle East dinner. Roti Maryam (similar to paratha) and Gule Kambing Kacang Hijau (Goat and Mung Bean Curry) were delightful dinner to close the night. Since the Srivijaya empire (long before Dutch arrived), this part of town has become a place for various nationalities to live and continuing to spark the charm of diversity until today.