“Better than Kerouac bums” or train hitchhiking in Italy

by Bohdana Kunikevych (Ukraine)

A leap into the unknown Ukraine

It all started from a gaze... Isn't it the nice beginning of any story? Well, probably not mine, especially when it's about the seventy-third crazy look from the Italian driver, who can`t understand any of my words in 3 languages and even can't appreciate my skills in charades acting. It was a good 4-hours game on a gas station, somewhere on the outskirts of Milan, begging drivers to get me at least 100 km away from the city. Fun fact - hitchhiking is banned on Italian main roads, and even staying on gas station could cause you problems, usually from workers of the station who accuse you in impudence. So what you left with after such an experience? One backpack, 4 waisted hours, fatigue and no other choices than to risk. Being a little bit crazy and "always get what I want" lead me to the central train station in Milan, obviously without money and any plan, but with the free wi-fi and ability to google. Before coming to this country I checked all the important information, like "where is the best gelato in town" and "how to eat pizza right, with hands or a fork-n-knife?", but I haven't read all the stories about terrible hitchhiking fate here. So, sitting next to a typical homeless in Milan, who wearing his counterpart Dolce & Gabbana sneakers, I was looking for any good side of fate. And I found it! It was embodied into someone's blog page with an article named "trenostop" (stopping a train). That`s where all the exciting part begins. So, hitchhiking a train could seem more like an illegal act, If you don`t buy a ticket and just trying to hide in a train (try not to follow Kerouac advice in 2020 and at least hide inside the train). But If you feeling like a moral person full of charm to convince the train conductor to give you a ride - congratulation, you can survive this budget trip through Italy! A short guide on how it works: From the moment you decide to go that path, Trenitalia (railroad system) is your best friend. There are two types of trains - regional (Treno Regionale (R),or Regionale Veloce (RV)) and the faster ones FRECCIAROSSA, FRECCIARGENTO, FRECCIABIANCA. The regional is easier to hitchhike cause there is only one conductor for the whole train, and he's checking tickets only once on the way. If you are brave enough you could try the second option, Freccia trains where one conductor is for three wagons and the tickets could be checked more than one time. Also, there are night trains and the one that travels through countries, but it almost impossible to take unnoticed. After you picked your vehicle it is your choice how to make that happen. I had a few different experiences. The first train I took was on the road for 1 hour and I was so afraid to get caught that I spent all that time locked in a toilet. Not recommending this by a lot of reasons, but especially because a) it is disgusting b) someone who will desperately need to use the toilet could say a lot of "good" Italian words about you. The other option is just to sit and wait. Wait for that adrenaline rush when you see the conductor coming. And here where the ancient reaction of fight and flight comes. You can run, or better calmly move, to another wagon and hope that the next stop will be sooner than the conductor will come to you. Or you can fight - explaining all the situation and in 90% you'll just get off the train with warnings that the next time they wouldn't forget you. And for the ending I'm leaving you with the best option I discovered through almost two weeks of "trenostop" - ask. Just ask the main person on the train if you could take it for free, explaining situation. Usually they are too careless to understand what do you want from them and just agree on everything. That way, everyone is happy: you are on a train almost legally, they don`t need to take care of getting you out on the way. Just find your way! Buon viaggio!