Beyond Borders

by Mark Oosthuizen (South Africa)

Making a local connection China

a Culinary experience...unbeknownst one of the worlds most intriguing food destinations. Working as a chef for numerous years and specializing in Asian fair, it was a no brainer to pop a trip through the continent of China. As we approach Beijing airport, the view of cherry blossoms and skyscrapers, surrounded by shrines and palaces get your attention. First things first, getting to the hotel wasn't my priority, but rather hitting the markets with my camera and my hunger for getting an education on hundreds of years of tradition. I Spent two or so days walking around the outskirts of the city and hitched a ride on the Yellow river. As we make our way down to a city called Xi'an the traders along the river supply the ferry kitchen with fresh river fish, shrimps and crabs...chefs tugging at their woks to get fire and flavour into the dishes. Fish wrapped and steamed in banana leaves, spicy Sichuan shrimps crispy and aromatic with ginger and and onion grass...cold beers served from local brewers from the Tsingtao District. As we pass countless shrines and temples with locals carefully tending to the surroundings, it's hard to imagine this peaceful setting once you've been to the city nearby. It bodes a connection to the land and the produce they depend on. We make our way to a little port and take a train up to Xi'an, where the oldest dumpling restaurant in the world awaits. Again here the lay of the land is vastly diffrent from the river scene...high oak trees and pines meet the little winding roads to tea plantations and scenes from a 1920's kung fu movie, included is the 98 year old that greets you have to the door with a snow white beard to the floor My breath is taken away, this you don't see every day, and it exists! As we sit down on a little three legged stool, we're brought a noodle soup that is hand rolled and cut by which could only be the only kitchen Stuart since the place existed, also in her late 90's. Let me tell you I'm thankful enough when I get a meal from my mother, but this is on another level. I wanted to tell her to sit down so i can cook for her...this just isn't sitting right with me. As I sit and observe whilst sipping on some tea, obviously just picked in the fields surrounding us, i notice their finesse and realize this is how they are so active for so long. They take pride in this, and its not mundane. They strive for that perfect cup, that perfect broth. Given the rest of the world, every city has its issues, sanitation and communication, politics and policies. This place was without any of it, it was a bubble of perfection...locals opening their doors and opening themselves up to criticism and opinions, without any doubt that they would add value and a little bit of sense to what they do each day. As I bid fair well to the community of locals, sitting drinking tea and cutting paper patterns, i feel an inherent sadness that i couldn't even begin to capture the setting and experience to take home, but would definately have a story when I roll out the noodles she tought me how to prepare. Customers love a story, combined with a results that could only bring a bit of authenticity, it takes the experience to a higher level. For me food and travel always encompassed the need to return the favour of bringing the experience to my guests...it's much easier to say "I've traveled to the other side of the world, but wait until you try what I've made for you!" Jumping into my kitchen with a fully packed dining room, armed with new flavours and techniques, it bodes well for local fair, and brought a new flavour to the dining experience. As I remember the elder that greeted me at the doors, i couldn't help but wonder who will take his place. How will that time honoured culture continue, authentic or not, I am privileged to tell his story and bring his flavours to my guests.