birds and bees, flowers and trees

by Mark Blomkamp (Australia)

I didn't expect to find Ecuador

From Loja there is a regular service to neighbouring towns from the Bus Terminal. I walked to the bus stop and although it was a public holiday (El Día de la Raza) I didn't have to wait long before catching a bus to Zamora-Yanzatza ($3) and waited for half an hour. It was a comfortable bus and there weren’t many passengers. The concrete road east of Loja rose steadily to about 3,000 metres above sea level and looking back I had a wonderful panoramic view of Loja. The bus stopped briefly at the Terminal in Zamora and went on to arrive near Hosteria El Arenal. Opposite the driveway was a restaurant – it was lunchtime and I ate a local fresh-water fish, tilapia cooked to perfection. A light drizzle fell gently down as I walked up to the Hosteria to be greeted by cheeky two parrots with such pretty colours: blue, red green and yellow. More parrots and some other birds gathered around each being fed half a corn cob. Above the lodge I walked around a hill following a path through a forest and looked at some lakes that contained many tilapia. While strolling around I saw much birdlife. From the top of the path was a picturesque view of the valley with its green meadows and in the distance forests hugged the hillsides. Later that afternoon I visited Cumbaratza, a nearby pueblo I had seen from the Hostería. I strolled towards the town along the main road which followed the banks of the fast-flowing Zamora River. At Cumbaratza I watched the local lads play ecuavoley in front of the blue Church and noticed, for the first time, poverty in Ecuador. Before dinner, I swam a few lengths of the pool and then had a steam bath (un turco). I felt very refreshed. I had a light meal with a bottle of agua gaseosa. In the Hosteria were many families and unfortunately for me, one large family group were staying in rooms near mine. They chatted noisily and late. And the next morning another family with young children awoke early ... After eating a huge breakfast (scrambled eggs, bread, fruit and glasses of orange juice) I left the Hosteria and walked to a bus stop. I didn't have to wait too long and paid the conductor (el chuleo) 50c for the short ride. Soon I arrived at the Bus Terminal in Zamora and I went firstly to the market where I bought some fruit. I then registered at the Hotel International Torres (which may have had a flash name but it was more like a Hostal). I emptied the backpack and put in a few things which I’d need for the rest of the day. I left the rest of my belongings in the room. From Zamora a taxista drove his yellow cab along the road above the Bombuscaro River. There were potholes and slips and we finally arrived at the entrance of the Parque Nacional Podocarpus. In the park there are many trails. The first led me to a natural pool, then the Orchid Garden, El Mirador (lookout), and to a waterfall: La Poderosa. I heard many birds but only saw a few. It was great to be in the ‘bush’ wearing my mountain boots and have a backpack with two bottles of water and snack food. Although there weren’t many signs along the paths I decided to go for another hike and followed a trail above the river bank. After 50 minutes I came to a swing bridge - time for lunch with the sun shining brightly as I listened to the rapids below. I returned to the Park HQ and took the trail to the left which led me uphill to the lookout. It was very steep and I stopped many times, out of breath. The walk up the hill took fifty minutes and coming down about half that time. The view from El Mirador Natural (high lookout point) was worth the effort. I looked across the valley to Zamora, along the Zamora River to Cumbaratza and its airport, and also more distant hills.