COINCIDENCES

by Paula Castanera Pallas (Spain)

Making a local connection Croatia

I have always had a particular interest in simultaneity. I think it is amazing how millions of different events occur at once. Ones full of joy and hope while others plenty of fear and sadness, but all of them at exactly the same moment. I was born in 1995 in Spain, it was February and everyone in my family was celebrating life. However, more than two thousand kilometres away, hundreds of soldiers were losing their lives in the Yugoslav wars. Worldwide news reported the horrors of the Balkans: thousands of people forced to leave their homes, boys stripped of their identity and forced into the army and the constant horror of facing death. The Balkans were transformed into a battlefield, covered with blood and ash. It was hard to believe that this could happen in Europe, but indeed it was. In the middle of this sea of chaos and fire, one of these new soldiers stood out. A young Croatian boy with eyes as blue as the Dalmatian sea and the strength of Zagreb in his veins. He fought for peace, trying to save as many lives as he could, at the same time he was fighting for his life. He survived war and he started to deal with his wounds and nightmares. With the passing of time, this young soldier became Viktor. He exchanged solitude for company. Instead of hiding from the enemy, he started to enjoy opening up to strangers. He forgot his marksmanship with weapons to focus on the accuracy of words. He left his tank behind to start driving a bus. He finally decided to turn down his honours as a war hero to start a new life as a tourist guide in the country he had fought for. During the summer months, Viktor goes up and down the Croatian coast with a bunch of people behind him. Every tourist who carefully listens to his tales can appreciate Viktor’s passion and devotion to his country and its people. Once you get to know Viktor’s past you understand his sense of pride and belonging to Croatia. His capacity to rebuild his life is a reflection of Croatian society. It is breathtaking how quickly this country has recovered from a war of such magnitude. Take Dubrovnik as an example: while you walk through its cobbled streets, you can’t imagine that, not so many years ago, this city was besieged and reduced to rubble. Its white walls stand out in the middle of the Adriatic Sea, showing the greatness of Croatia. Viktor ends the tour with an unexpected stop on the way. He introduces his group to a war exhibition, where you can discover several vehicles used in the battles. Among them, an old and rusty tank captures the attention of the audience. It was Viktor’s “little toy”. Shrapnel marks are still visible in the metal, as well as in Viktor’s back and legs. Some pieces of the tank were reconstructed just like Viktor’s aquiline nose. Nevertheless, against all odds, both of them were still standing defying oblivion. I’m familiar with Viktor’s history because he was my guide. I was honoured with his explanations, stories and his crude reality. He made me think about the importance of overcoming problems. Facing the blows of life is as necessary as reconstructing yourself. No one is prepared for a war, but not everyone could recover their peace as Croatians did. What a coincidence that I decided to visit Croatia. What a coincidence that Viktor decided to show off his land to the world. What a coincidence that we could share the same place ar the same moment.