Cowboys of Lesotho

by Helmi Okpara (United Kingdom (Great Britain))

I didn't expect to find Lesotho

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Lesotho, a small free state significant in its independence and decision to go against apartheid regardless of the fact that it was and still is surrounded by a larger and stronger nation in wealth and size, South Africa. It is known as 'The Kingdom in the Sky' due to its everlasting mountainous landscape. It has the highest lowest point of any country in the world. It was in the afternoon, when I was speaking to the locals in Maseru, Capital of Lesotho. We spoke briefly of the herd boys, otherwise known as cowboys who resided away from the other communities who were more socially integrated. In the heat and cool breeze I wondered how these herdboys were in reality. Local gossip of their negative impact, such as crime, stirred an increasing amount of curiosity and my interest in them widened. I began taking more notice of them and in doing so had more contact with them. Being in another country can be challenging when trying to communicate. I was told that the herd boys were illiterate. They were not to go to school, but instead worked on the land, carrying a strong tradition. So when I had a young gentlemen ask me for matches, showing me his empty match box, with no words exchanging I wasn't surprised. Although when I handed him the lighter, he became lit with excitement, in a very pure way. I said that he could keep it of course as his reaction was too good to let go. When our brief interaction had passed and he had thanked me deeply, I realised that our communication went further than that with words that I had had with others in Lesotho. This type of interaction happened a few times with the herdboys. I was travelling with an all white group to Southern Africa, I felt as though the things that I was noticing hadn't also caught the interest of my peers. There was one moment in particular where we were travelling in our mini van across the mountains to Nazareth, as we were working with locals, their music blasted at 4am in the morning, it was House. Booming, the car road into the seemingly peaceful roads with cherry blossom trees bursting with colour in the background. Alas, in the distance I saw two figures, it was as if time stopped, then slowed all the way down till I saw two men (herdboys) on horses galloping through time. Every last note from the House music playing went silent, tears filled my eyes, and I could almost hear the hoofs of the horses landing on the ground. I felt proud to be black. How had I not learned of the black cowboys of Southern Africa till now, what a sight. Eventually they past, a time caught up, I was back in the overwhelmingly loud van and everyone was dancing as if nothing had happened. Just writing about that moment makes me feel grateful that I was able to experience it. These moments in travelling humble you by reminding you that there is still so much to see. As for the remarks on how herdboys create trouble, I think that it is easier to blame the problems of the country on whom we do not understand. They choose not to indulge in the treats of globalisation and instead remain true to what they believe is the honest way of living. I cannot say that there aren't disadvantages to the way live but I can say that the purity that they have maintained as a result is a huge advantage and rare to find.