Dapoya

by Gaëtan Soerensen (France)

A leap into the unknown Burkina Faso

8th March A. takes me for the first time to the Dapoya district in the north of Ouagadougou. Everyone's looking at me. 10th March The contact I made before my trip doesn't answer me. I'm beginning to understand the difficulties have come. 11th March Maybe this harassment isn’t negative. It is probably a kind of test from the locals or simply a rude attention of kindness. A mixed couple is sitting on the terrace of the French Institute of Ouagadougou. He has sixty; she has twenty and shares a complicit laugh. This place has everything to please, but something’s wrong. 12nd March The Matata is in the south of the district. I met the owner of this chic night club, a woman of a certain age, the only one who look down the men. I’m concerned about how this neighborhood is changing. 13th March People look at me when the wind blows through my hair. Pupils laugh at me. Womens are beautiful. 14th March I registered as a student at the Institute of Research and Development (IRD) , which allows me to access their library during the week. Nearby, the International Medical Center is a clinic where expatriates go for treatment. 15th March I’m starting to make a mind map of Dapoya. Who are these clients? 16th March All techniques are good for having few coins. This evening a smart look child is dancing instead of begging like the others. It is difficult to say no to them. 17th March I met Salam this morning in the shade of a small booth. He doesn’t speak French and gives me his ID card. Appears on it his profession: farmer. But another inscription appears in bold: Illiterate. 20th March I meet Sally late at night. She’s 29 and invites me to her home. I quickly understand that for her the night is nothing more than a workplace. We talk until the sunrise of her 8-year-old son. 21st March I’m thinking of Salam, where could he be? 22nd March Sally invited me to share a meal. She gave me a visit of the Northeast part of Dapoya. Fertile lands borders the north of the district. 23rd March Salam works in a bar in the name of « Sans Souci » from 3pm to 11pm. 25th March The notion of intimacy becomes more important in my immersion process. Kind of photographic Grail who offers a pure moment. But does this moment really exist? 26th March Under the zenith of Dapoya, the prayer ends. I join Sally, she cannot pray because she's considered to have a «bad life». While the day is dominated by men, women take over the night. 27th March When night falls, I'm as usual with the members of the Faso Zouglou band. They take me with them on their night getaways. I'm now the band’s official photographer, which gives me some freedom. 28th March I suspect the « Sans Souci »'s boss takes Salam away from his bar. I think i asked too much question about him. My chances of seeing him again fall with time. 31st March Visiting Sally. Her neighbours see my unwanted visits as a financial support. I gave up explaining to them that I’m not his « white man ». 2nd April I’ve been walking around the farmland with Sally. I realized that she had been doing this for a very long time and was expecting God’s help to get out. 3rd April Party in the villa of my expatriates acquaintances. The house is in the old colonial district. They drink alcohol imported from Europe. 4th April I went back in Sally’s house but she was sleeping with a man. The scene was beautiful with these half-naked bodies entwined. I left without making a noise as not to wake them. 6th April Cissé told me he could’t find Salam because he go back to his native village. I realize now I'll never find him again.