Desert reminisces: A cultural safari in "Loiyangalani"

by miriam makali (Kenya)

Making a local connection Kenya

I am going to stay here longer, away from the hustle and bustle of city life, in this wild place considered an oasis. That’s ok because I have mastered some survival life skills necessary for this escapade. Some scouting techniques would come in handy too. Like lightning fire using sticks and stones, pitching a tent atop the huge African Magnolia tree and of course, hunting down the wild rabbits and squirrels, would make for some sumptuous delicacies. The time is 2.30 p.m. (GMT). The temperature outside is 86 F. The sun is scorching hot and my fancy white tee is now all soaked up in sweat. This part of Sub-Saharan Africa can be quite unforgiving especially this time of the year. As I hurriedly get my luggage off the helicopter, the pilot makes a reminder to all passengers; “Enjoy your stay in Turkana, but remember security starts with you. Be safe people”. I pretend not to hear that part. See, Lake Turkana, one of UNESCO’S heritage sites - located North of Kenya, is a volatile region. But there is always the other side of the coin, the beautiful part that no one seems to highlight. As a matter of fact, its considered the cradle of human beings, as the ancient fossils of human origin were discovered here. The dare-devil genes in me and the love for cultural tourism brought me here. After a five-hours bumpy ride, we finally arrive. A rusty billboard read “Karibu (means welcome) Loiyangalani”. A local name to mean a place of many trees. Contrary to my expectations, the landscape is lush, with a thick canopy of cactus and Cyprus’s trees. It’s love at first sight and am in awe of this place. My home for the next 5 days is going to be the overland truck and a family of strangers we just met, who are backpacking. Mosei, our local guide, warmly welcomes all of us at the camp. After a few pleasantries with other travelers and a safari sundowner, I feel rejuvenated. I inform Mosei of my intentions to check out the local area. “Would you like me to accompany you? It’s not safe for strangers to go to the village alone”, He tells me.” No, thanks. I won't go far”, I assure him. The breeze is refreshing and the atmosphere tranquil. The bird biodiversity is rich, making it a top spot for bird watching globally. Such a pristine environment, I Marvell. Suddenly, am wandering off track, oblivious of the lurking dangers in this desert. No worries, I console myself. I got my trekking pole. Just in case I get lost, I can draw a ‘way back’ with arrows, starting from ‘Here’. I can hear the sound of laughter and giggles from a far. I head towards a group of six young beautiful women. I am mesmerized by their black ebony skin, so sleek and authentic. They are all bare-chested, with only small pieces of cloth covering their loins. Brightly colored beaded chains hang around their necks. We arrive at the banks of the mystical lake Turkana, at sunset. On this particular evening though, we are the only group present. So, Naikei, the group leader encourages me to join them in a refreshing ritual bath at the lake. An event where one is supposed to strip naked and join the spirits in singing and ululating, along the banks before finally taking a dip. I swear this was the most emancipating thing I ever did in my adult life and, yes, I felt a spiritual cleansing from the blessed waters of Lake Turkana. Only the dark clouds reminded me of the time-lapse. I had to find my way back to the camp before the security personnel could commission a missing person's search. My awesome girlfriends escorted me back safely as we planned on tomorrow’s adventure. They updated me on the upcoming Lake Turkana cultural festival. A 3-day carnival, where different cultures are celebrated. As I laid in bed reminiscing on events of the day, I knew I had to make tough decisions. I wanted to explore some more and enjoy the myriad of colorful cultures while discovering the hidden treasures of Turkana.