Discovering Cuba

by Alicia McGhee (United States of America)

A leap into the unknown Cuba

Last spring, I embarked on a solo journey to Cuba. I had long desired to visit this island full of beautiful people at the heart of such political controversy. I had never met anyone who had gone there so I was going completely unaware of the atmosphere. My journey was one of struggle, quiet joys and survival. The first challenge met me at the airport. Realizing I would not be able to use my credit cards in the country, I decided to leave them home. Big mistake! I forgot that I needed to purchase my visa and remembered just as it was time to board my flight. I did not have enough cash. I got to the counter and was told I had less than 5 minutes to run down the corridor, convert my money to purchase the visa and board the plane. I started to panic, but a young woman over heard my desperate situation and offered to put the charges on her card. I thanked her profusely and set off on my mission of discovering Cuba - challenged with the task of surviving a week with $400. The first place I'd booked a room with was in Guanabacoa, 10-15 minutes from Havana. As I unpacked and got settled, I discovered that I had also left my phone charger at home in the states. The first few days were difficult and a bit lonely, but I stayed busy with the pre-booked activities I'd scheduled through air bnb. The first day I went on a walking tour of central Havana. We walked for more than 2 hours and I captured some beautiful photos until my phone died. Tired and nervous, I overpaid for a taxi just so I could get back to the air bnb. The next day, I was able to borrow a charger from the other boarders, however I had to make a plan to buy a new one. My hostess, a short, pleasant older woman, encouraged me to take the bus, called the gua-gua (pronounced "wa-wa"). Since the gua-gua was so cheap, it was always packed. She told me had to act "like a Cuban girl" if I needed to take a taxi and negotiate a more reasonable price like a local because I didn't have a lot of cash. I learned quickly and was able to find my way around and use the public WiFi to make contact with family and friends. It wasn't until I was taking a salsa class I'd signed up for that I was finally able to connect with my parents and my son. I was so happy to see him and excited to tell him about my trip. The class was in a gorgeous mansion in the lush and bustling area of Vedado, a region neighboring Havana. The hostess was a kind, petite young woman named Litzandra and the instructor Alice was equally as kind. Both women are amazing dancers and taught me so much. Afterwards, I enjoyed a meal at a rooftop restaurant around the corner at another mansion which served as a hostel. Though I was the only person there, a trio of musicians serenaded me with wonderful Cuban music as the sun went down. The next day, I packed up and made my way to my second lodging in Havana. My second hostess spoke as much English as I spoke Spanish, but fortunately I understood her. The move brought me closer to a woman who hosted the cooking class I took on my second day there. When my phone died, she allowed me to charge it in her home, which had a stronger electric current than where I was staying. She and her husband were gracious and we practiced our language skills together. It was a heartwarming cultural exchange. That night I enjoyed a delicious dinner and the warmth of the night at a scenic restaurant. The following day, I visited Callejon de Hammel, a stunning arts district in Vedado. Due to my tour in Guanabacoa, I recognized symbols of Santeria throughout the vibrant space full of original art works. Cuba was a peaceful dream and I cannot wait to return...with my child and of course, with more money.