Enjoy Phimai, Past and Present

by Wendy Whitman (United States of America)

Making a local connection Thailand

Phimai Historical Park, located in the town of Phimai, is the largest Khmer temple in Thailand. If you only see one Khmer temple while you are in Thailand, I recommend that it be Phimai. Phimai dates to the 11th and 12th centuries. It is the last point on the imperial road that leads South to Angor Wat, the large Khmer temple complex in present day Cambodia. Phimai is oriented South, facing Angor Wat, unlike the other Khmer temples in Thailand which face East. This orientation, along with the terminal location and the size of the temple, indicates Phimai’s importance to the Khmer. The carvings and sculpture depict both Hindu and Buddhist figures. The Khmer were largely Hindu, yet in this region, the Khorat plateau, there lived a larger Buddhist population. The complex is constructed with large plain sandstone and laterite blocks. The simplicity of the large bricks contrast with intricate carvings in the lintels. Phimai National Museum is just a short walk from the temple. It houses an extensive collection of archaeological finds, many of which are from the temple in Phimai. There are Khmer style lintels and pediments. A sculpture of the Khmer King Jayavarman VII sitting humbly in a meditation posture is a highlight of the Museum. There are also ancient tools in stone and bronze and as well as pottery remains. Another attraction in Phimai is Sai Ngam, a banyan tree grove located just two km. from town. You will pass a few modern Wats (temples) on the way, and perhaps you will enjoy stopping in one. Reaching Sai Ngam, there is a covered outdoor restaurant to your right and on the left a short walkway into a canopy covering of banyan tree. The banyan forest completely fills the small island it is on. There are a few benches under the tree, and the shade makes a very pleasant cool-down space after a walk in the Thai heat. This tree is estimated to be 350 years old. Some say it is the oldest and largest banyan tree in Asia. As branches grow outward, they extend roots downward. Thus, the tree can grow wider and wider without it's branches breaking, as they are supported by the new roots. I found the experience of sitting under the tree to be refreshing and relaxing. Nonetheless, I have heard it described as spooky. How do you think you will feel? I lived in Thailand for 5 months, and I got the best massage ever right here in Phimai!! The place is located on the main road, Tha Songkran, directly across the street from the temple. This location also has other specialties, such as chiropractic and cupping, that not all massage places offer. Thai massage is different from Western massage in that there is stretching and movement, somewhat like a passive yoga, in addition to compression of the muscles. Thai massage was placed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in December 2019. I cannot recommend Phimai as a paradise for foodies. While I was there, many of the restaurants had open doors but were not serving. I did have a good Thai dinner at Ida, on the main street, just around the corner from the Temple. They serve both Thai and Western food, with unfortunately slow service. There is also a very inexpensive night market which sells almost exclusively food items. North East Thailand is known as Isaan. If you like sausage, you can find Isaan Sausage, served on a stick, at the night market. It is usually formed into balls, rather than the long shape of Western sausage. The pork is fermented, giving it a distinctive flavor, and comes in two varieties; The plain pork sausage is a bit darker; the lighter sausage will have rice noodles in it as well as pork. It is certainly possible to visit Phimai as a day trip from Nakhon Ratchasima, only 1 hour away by car. But I recommend coming in the morning and spending a leisurely day and staying overnight. There is so much to be seen, learned and absorbed, both about Phimai’s past and the small town of today. Enjoy Phimai!!!