Fear Will Then Abandon You

by Louiela Ann Analista (United Arab Emirates)

I didn't expect to find Armenia

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Someone said that the richest place on earth is a cemetery. For it is where great dreams are buried too. The Noratus Cemetery in Armenia proves the richness of a burial place but in a different way. This medieval cemetery from the 10th century has the largest surviving number of cross-stones. Cross-stones or locally known as khachkars are part of Armenian’s cultural heritage. Noratus Cemetery is a burial ground. But here comes alive the culture and traditions of Armenians. Intricately carved on each khachkars are ornaments, Armenian symbols, grapes, pomegranates and ever traditional foods. Some khachkars depict the life of the person. It is indeed a cultural walk in an ancient cemetery. The place is underrated for a tourist destination. For those who come here are mostly locals who believe in a ritual conducted in this place. “Fear will then abandon you.” As I was walking alone in the cemetery field, one winter day, a family of four arrived. I followed them as they lighted candles inside the chapel. As a stranger, I respected their personal space. I went outside the chapel and looked at the khachkars. Beside the chapel, there was a special burial stone. It was filled and almost covered with broken pieces of glass. And from there, I witnessed the ritual. The mother assisted her teenage children, who in silence, performed the tradition. Each of them had their own bottle of water. One had to drink and the remaining water to wash face and hands even amidst the freezing winter. The ritual is believed to be from the 19th-century story wherein an old monk requested to be buried alive. With his last words as, “I do not fear death. Never fear anything but God.” The monk also left a message, that whoever has fear, come and pour water at his burial stone. Drink the water, wash face, chest, arms and legs. And the most important thing is to fearlessly break the vessel that contained the water. Fear will then abandon you. One after another, I witnessed the two teenagers broke the glass bottles too and they soon left the Noratus Cemetery. Then I was alone in that vast field and found my way home afterward. It felt like, fear abandoned me too.