Finding a Home Among Strangers in Rwanda

by Makutha Godwill (Kenya)

Making a local connection Rwanda

I had never been outside my country before. Getting my first ever salary on December 24th, I found myself in a ticketing office for buses going from Nairobi Kenya to Kigali Rwanda. The journey takes approximately 24 hours, and that meant I was going to spend Christmas day on the road. The bus left Nairobi at 9 PM on 24th, and we arrived at Busia the town at the border between Kenya and Uganda at around 6 AM. There were no queues at the immigration offices, and within a few minutes, we were back on the road. The journey through Uganda is scenic with long stretches of greenery and dramatic landscape, save for the roadside markets selling second-hand shoes and clothes. We arrived at the border between Uganda and Rwanda at 7 PM. By this time, almost half of the passengers we had left Nairobi with had alighted. Two passengers joined at the border, and I came to know later that they were sisters, and they had been stranded at the border after visiting their relatives in Uganda. I had no idea that these strangers were going to make my stay in Rwanda memorable. One had occupied the empty seat next to me, and we had chatted all the way to Kigali. Her name was Phina. I told her that I did not know where I was going, and I did not know anyone in Rwanda. She thought that I was crazy, and I think it was out of pity that she invited me to a wedding she was attending the next day. We were finally in Kigali at 10 PM. We exchanged numbers, wished each a goodnight, and parted ways. I got accommodation near the Nyabugogo bus terminal with the help of the driver. I was early the next day, and I started to wander around Kigali. The streets were mostly deserted as most of the people had traveled upcountry for Christmas. After an hour of roaming, I took a taxi to the genocide museum. It was still early, and I was the only visitor. A complete tour takes approximately two to three hours. I had time. I visited different rooms in the museum, which all had different items on display. Among the heart-breaking pictures are life-sized photographs of child victims, each one with a name and intimate particulars of their favorite things. Most of the exhibits were very abstract but had a huge symbolism. When I walked out, I was instantly in tears at the sight of the mass graves just after the exit door. This was after being in the hall of the child victims. It was a humbling experience. I called Phina at around noon after I left the museum. She directed my taxi driver to her place, where she was finishing getting ready for the wedding. We went to the ceremony, which I rate among the best that I have ever attended. It was colorful, and most people donned Mushanana, the traditional Rwandese dress. She introduced me to her friends, some with whom we would later form a traveling troupe during my stay in Rwanda. Phina hosted me for over a week, and together with the newfound friends we toured Rwanda drinking caramel-flavored banana wine and beers in 750 ml bottles. We toured several towns, including kibuye, Butare, Gitarama, Musanze, Byumba, and Gisenyi. Gisenyi is contiguous with Goma in DR Congo and was particularly memorable as we found ourselves sneaking into Congo since we had not carried the necessary travel documents. We had been in Congo for hours before the Congolese police caught up with us in the evening as we enjoyed the street food and cold beers close to the border. They let us free after bribing and begging them for almost an hour. Each day was different, and I enjoyed every moment with my new friends. In my last night Rwanda, they hosted a farewell party for me, and this still remains a top travel highlight for me.