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"If there's one thing you MUST do," my grandfather implored a few years before his passing, "you must go to, Poland." Nearly 15 years after I found myself exhausted, yet exhilarated, as I stood in the Krakow, Airport. "I made it, Grampa." I thought to myself. I could almost smell his Carpe Diem cologne in the air. My nerves were completely shot from jet lag but I found that navigating to my hostel was easier than originally thought. I quickly exchanged my currency and walked over to an information desk where I was directed EXACTLY how to get to my destination near the center of Krakow. Luckily, I had also downloaded an app suggested by a friend that was a saving grace. After a quick 30 minute bus ride through the outskirts of Krakow, I arrived at my hostel far too early to check in. I left my one bag to retrieve later and with a map in hand I set off. Hungry, jet lag and in desperate need of coffee I put in my headphones and headed straight on to the Stare Miesto of Krakow. Your sense of smell is such a gift and I often breathe deeper during travel to take in the "scents" of a city, country or moment, locking them into place in my memory. I passed bakery after bakery of fresh paczki and other delicious looking mysterious pastries. Despite my hunger I pressed on. The scent of espresso mixed in the air as Chopin's "Nocturne No. 2 in E Flat" created a whirling, morning ritual, ballet. The town square burst into view and my breath was taken from me. Pigeons filled the air over Cloth Hall as the Church of St. Mary's towers pierced the sky behind it. The quaint fronts of cafes and restaurants lined the square and I arrived into the one coffee shop that was bustling with life. I took my cafe latte and ham and cheese croissant to the outdoor seating area despite the brisk, spring air. I watched traditionally dressed horse carriages line up outside the hall as children chased after groups of pigeons peaking away at the ground around the market sheds. I spent the majority of my day strolling the streets and taking in the astounding architecture. At one point I found myself at the Wawel Royal Castle where I stood looking over the city and indulging in a black bird's song. It was all so vastly different from my home town of Chicago and a far cry from my current residence in Sitka, Alaska. As if by luck, or the will of my grandfather, it began to rain as I arrived back at my hostel. After some needed rest, relaxation and research, I headed back out into the cool, spring evening to have dinner at the highly recommended, vegan restaurant, Veganic. After a phenomenal, mushroom gnocchi and two glasses of white wine, all for the modest price of $15 US dollars, I found my way back to the square. I purposefully stopped before rounding the corner and put my headphones back on. Music, much like a scent, locks into memory. Khalid's, "Vertigo" gently began it's intro as the square lit up the scene. Lights danced around every building and bounced off of the water left behind by the earlier shower. I spun around in circles, tears filling my eyes. Every building seemed brought to life as the architecture was only further enhanced by its meticulous, illumination. The restaurants had a heart beat as they bustled with patrons. The smell of smoked meats engulfed the air. I walked in circles around Cloth Hall for some time with my neck craned back. My mission when I travel is for my eyes to behold something new every day and this was more than just new. I wanted to envelop myself in everything around me. "Are we alive? Or are we dreaming?" asked, Khalid in my ear drums. Yes. Both. Poland feels like both.