Finding the Shoemaker

by Simone Larwood (Australia)

A leap into the unknown Malaysia

Whilst lazily flicking through an inflight magazine on a business trip, I was drawn to an article which sparked enough interest and curiosity to inspire a solo trip to Melaka a few short months later. Something about this article had caught my imagination, and gave me the strongest desire to visit the business featured – Wah Aik Shoemaker, based in the bustling streets of Chinatown in Melaka, Malaysia, and to meet the third generation business owner also featured in the article – one Raymond Yeo. Perhaps it was the exquisite, hand crafted bound feet shoes created by Raymond Yeo and his family that caught my attention, or perhaps it was the idea of Melaka itself. Either way, I was hooked. My family and friends thought I was mad, but I was determined to go, and tagged a flight to Kuala Lumpur to the end of yet another business trip. From Kuala Lumpur I made my way by bus to the colourful town of Melaka where I spent the next few days exploring this fascinating town known for its melting pot of cultures. My primary aim was to find and visit Wah Aik Shoemaker and to meet Raymond Yeo, but in the meantime I was sidetracked by the sights of Melaka and couldn’t help exploring. The river flowing through the town (Sungai Melaka) dividing Chinatown from the Dutch Square was my first port of call and I loved wandering along its well-maintained footpath dotted with colourful pots of flowers, over the quaint bridges and past the old buildings adorned with amazing wall art murals. Such a unique and interesting waterway – I’d not seen anything like it. Every now and then a tourist boat would lazily pass by and I decided I’d take a ride before leaving. I wandered back to the picturesque Dutch Square, known for its terracotta coloured Dutch colonial buildings including the Christ Church and Stadthuys, which was once the residence of Dutch Governors. The Square was alive with activity. Locals and tourists were everywhere, and the rows of brightly decorated trishaws waiting for their next ride added to the vibrance of this meeting place. I knew I’d be back at some point for a trishaw ride – how could I not? After a restful night’s sleep, I woke the next morning knowing this would be the day I’d find the shoemaker. I made my way into the streets of Melaka’s Chinatown and was immediately struck by its character and charm. I loved the narrow, busy streets and the buildings with beautifully decorated facades. Although of distinct Chinese character, I was to learn these buildings were Dutch in architecture being narrow, tall and deep – much like you’d find along the canals of Amsterdam. I visited the fascinating Nonya Heritage Museum in Hareem Street where a wealthy Chinese family once resided, and enjoyed a refreshing cup of tea at Cheng Ho Tea House. I inspected the interesting array of shops along Jonker Street, then visited a temple and mosque in Harmony Street. I ate the most delicious dumplings ever and watched artisans at work in their small studios. After a few wrong turns, and many hours later, I finally found Wah Aik Shoemaker – the very place I had read about a few months earlier and the very place that had inspired this adventure! I entered the shop and was immediately struck by its simplicity and charm. Brightly painted yellow walls to the right with glass shelves proudly displaying an array of beautifully crafted bound feet shoes. And to the left was Raymond Yeo himself, sitting amongst his tools of trade and busily working away at the next pair of embroidered sandals. He was very happy to chat, have his photo taken and talk about the history of his shop. His work was truly beautiful and each and every pair of shoes a piece of art. I took more photos and of course, came away with a pair of beautifully embroidered bound feet shoes which are now displayed in my home. They remind me every day of those few days in the wonderful Melaka – a place I travelled to on a whim, and a place I hope to go back to one day.