Freedom found in the Transkei

by Lesica Roux (South Africa)

Making a local connection South Africa

Road trip time! A massive variety of roads mapping the entire South Africa makes this country very easy to explore by car. Cars are cheap to rent (even for the locals) and the public transport system even cheaper and generally very comfortable to use. I'm travelling to a part of the country less visited for my annual holiday, armed with a good old paper road map, all the standard camping gear, some good music and a spirit for adventure. I've decided to travel North and along the East coast, from my hometown in the Garden Route, to a large area known as the Transkei. (Transkei meaning 'area above the river'.) In the apartheid years the Transkei functioned as a 'separate development' territory, but was never given international recognition for it's independence. When apartheid ended in 1994 it was reintegrated into South Africa and became part of the Eastern Cape province. The reason I mention this is because it is so very different from the more traveled and developed parts of the country. The landscape starts changing from the mountainous, dense indigenous forests to the more rolling hills topped with native huts and free ranging animals kind of scenery. I finally arrive at my first destination, which is a little coastal village named Coffee Bay. It's dark already and I check into the Coffee Shack backpackers. Weary from my 1000 km journey, I quickly pitch my tent, head off to the backpacker's restaurant/bar and order a homemade Xhosa meal and some local beer. They have live music that night and while I'm dining I enjoy possibly the best bongo drumming band I've ever heard! I spend the next week just chilling out at Coffee Shack. Their camping area is one of the most unique and beautiful sites in the country. Under ancient Milkwood trees, at the Bomvu river mouth (meaning red river in Xhosa) and on the beach. Wow! Cows, goats, pigs, dogs and horses make up the Transkei big five. They roam freely and you often find them on the beach hanging out with sunbathers, kids playing soccer, hikers and surfers. I finally stumbled upon the 'real' South Africa. It feels like I'm on a tropical island far removed from and unburdened by our modern society, architecture and luxurious lifestyles. I fill my days with swimming, hiking, stargazing and eating with the locals. The sound of the drum beats echoing through the valleys wherever I go. The culture and place feels ancient. These experiences are powerful and I often hesitate to take out my camera, just out of respect. My journey continues and I stay on the coastal roads, never really losing site of the Indian ocean. When I reach a town called Port St Johns (about 120 km North of Coffee Bay), I learn that the beach here is known as the most dangerous in the world, because of the number of fatal shark attacks. No swimming here! I easily find accommodation I like and decide to check in. If I thought Coffee Bay felt like a tropical island, Port St Johns quickly jumps into the lead in the competition for the most exotic town along the coast. Lush forests, steep cliffs with arms out forming small bays, white beaches, rivers and lagoons all touching the beautiful warm ocean. Mind blown... There are little shanty town shops stocking basic supplies, but not often will you find supermarkets or banks so it is better to be prepared. As an African myself, I understand the culture and would still say it isn't necessary as a visitor to employ a tour guide to travel these parts. I found the accommodation everywhere to be very well equipped for tourists and all round very friendly. It is better to go with your own transport for many reasons. The driving around is in itself a big part of the experience. I was hooked. It felt like I just wanted to stay on the road and explore what is around every bend. Driving home after 2 weeks I felt sad. I didn't want to go back to the 'real world'. I didn't want to leave.