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GHOST ISLAND It was a sunny day and we embarked on our journey to the southern part of Uganda in Rakai district, in search for Musumbwa Island, an island where snakes are ‘kings’ and men are ‘slaves’ Going to Musambwa Island you board from Kasensero Landing site on the shores of Lake Victoria, and you move almost 5km, in the waters where you meet three rocky islands. The best non turbulent route to access the island, is Dumu route in Masaka which provides a much clearer and safer water to sail in. The biggest of the islands is about three hectares, the medium sized one about two hectares and the smallest are rocky outcrops protruding out of Lake Victoria. In Luganda, a language which is spoken by almost 68% of the Ugandan population, the name ‘Musambwa’ means a ghost. The Island derived its name from the overwhelming number of snakes in the area which are believed to be ghosts other than normal snakes. Most islands in Uganda are known for immoral behaviors, but Musambwa, boasts with the highest morality rate, because of the set of rules which are believed to be put by the ghosts…on this island, no person is supposed to have sex on this island, no woman is supposed to visit the island and spend a night there, and no woman in her menstruation period is allowed on the island, otherwise she will enrage the ghosts which people perceive to be snakes. According to Tony Kizito one of the caretakers of Musambwa Island, almost 99.9% are men and only women go there during day and they are passerby…and the few who go there have cultural obligations for the ghosts. Kizito started living on this island in the early 1960s, and says the people he found on this island were just spending day and in the evening they had to go back on land. "since the island is rich with green and cool vegetation, it is good for resting and refresh the mind, and one day, a couple had sex on the island and the ghosts got annoyed and reaction was gravely" says Kizito. The lake changed, with an angry storm carrying away houses, deracinating trees and covering the rocky island in a cloud of dust. This place isn’t only an Island of legendary wonders, but also a place where wildlife calls home. There are over 2000 snakes and reptiles of all sizes and bird species. It is a breeding site for the Grey-headed Gulls, Long-tailed Cormorant, Greater Cormorant and Little Egret, all of which breed in internationally significant numbers. You won’t cease to wonder from the moment you set your foot on this island. Having seen a population of only men, some in groups boosting, others roasting fish, as you walk keenly not to step on napping pythons and staring cobras while avoiding crushing the eggs and newly hatched birds in the rock beds. The spirit they call Jajja Musambwa, who owns everything is believed to stay in a big old tree shrine, where residents visit regularly to seek blessings. Next time we will visit Akampene Island, the punishment island, found in the deepest lake in Uganda L. Bunyonyi, where girls who got pregnant before marriage where dropped so that they don't bring a curse in the family.