Gloria

by Emma Wallwork (United Kingdom (Great Britain))

A leap into the unknown Spain

Storm Gloria hit hard and I’m sheltering from the rain under a tiny roof lip at the entrance of ‘Mercado de la Boqueria’ when a middle-aged, brightly dressed woman sidles up to me and starts laughing. ‘Hola!’ ‘Hola,’ I greet, my bad accent a mix of beginner self-taught lessons and self-consciousness. She begins talking in rapid Spanish and I smile politely, ‘¿lo Siento ingles?’ She laughs. ‘AH! English?! I was saying that this weather is bad for women!’ ‘Really? How so?’ ‘Ah, where I’m from, we say watch out, because when it rains like this, there’s nothing to do except go to bed and…’ she trails off, lifting a suggestive eyebrow in my direction. ‘And…?’ ‘Babies!’ she cackles, ‘Beware, not much to do today except make babies!’ And her laughter follows her skirts through the storm as I stand in her wake, bemused and shivering from the cold. ~ This solo adventure started on Christmas day, 2019, less than 5 weeks before this bizarre meeting on a stormy day in Barcelona. Globally and personally, 2019 had been a rocky road, and with a lazy Christmas day afternoon ahead, I started planning 2020’s escapades. A glass of mulled wine, a bowl of sherry trifle and a site of cheap flights later, my first solo trip abroad was booked. The adventure was not too far away, and excitement started to bubble, feet itching to explore. ~ Which brings us to the present. It seems like Storm Gloria had followed me across the span of Europe, intent on wrecking my idealistic solo trip along with the photo ops I’d so carefully planned for my Instagram! But the topographical location of Barcelona meant the city was somewhat sheltered from the worst of the storm, even though the rain and wind still felt slightly apocalyptic. On the worst evening in the middle of the week, I don’t even venture from the hostel. Instead, I curl in my bunk with food from the market and a few episodes of my favourite tv show and hunker down to wait it out. ~ Thursday...sunshine! Happy days! Gloria has finally relaxed a little so it's time to explore a little further afield on my final full day and this unique excursion proved to be the highlight of my trip. A prickle of anxiety began to curl in my belly as I made my way in the soft early morning sun towards Plaza de Toros Monumental. The anxiety spun from my worry about wanting to see a place of such death and bloody history, but I reminded myself that bullfighting is a huge part of Spanish culture and life, still practised in some areas of the country today. Barcelona ruled the sport illegal in 2010 and by 2012 the practice was outlawed in the city, which I was relieved and pleased to see. Last used in September 2011, the incredible bullring Monumental de Barcelona has been left to the elements, and for a small fee, you can explore the entirety of the stadium. The entirety. Never before have I been so humbled and felt so lucky to see and explore, not only the passages, seating and bull stables but even stand in the middle of the ring, feet digging into soft sand, the multitudes of stairs and corridors and hidden windows and what used to be, I can only assume, the VIP boxes circling the heavens. Everything is decaying though. Wooden doors swollen shut with water. Rust starting to spread along metal handles and chair fixtures. Small swooping birds have made their homes in the abandoned paint-flecked rafters. The thought crosses my mind that unless someone starts investing to protect it, surely it won't be safe for explorers much longer. Despite such an awful history, the place surely is a magnificent wonder, and I can only imagine what will become of it in the future. ~ Even though my plans weren't exactly smooth sailing, open and exposed to the elements as we all are, I'm incredibly lucky to have seen such beautiful things on my solo travels, and if that meant sharing Barcelona with Gloria, I didn't mind that much.