Going where there is "nothing"

by Jonatan Jansson (Sweden)

A leap into the unknown Paraguay

Paraguay might be the least visited country in South America, at least if you don't count the tourists day-tripping across the border from Iguazú Falls just to be able to check it off the list. Most people simply dismiss it with the words "Why would you go there? There's nothing to do there". This attitude made me want to go, because I'm convinced that every country has something worth visiting. The hardest part about travelling in Paraguay is the lack of tourism infrastructure and the local buses can't always take you where you want to go. I had read about Crystal Falls, a waterfall that I wanted to visit but after hours of research I concluded that it's almost impossible to get to without a car. Almost. There was one option. I could take a bus to a town nearby and then figure out the last 20 km from there. I packed my tent, food and snacks to last me for the night, and prepared myself for a lot of walking. This part of Paraguay is mostly farmland and I didn't see many people, but the few people I saw were very friendly and curious, smiling and waving at me from their houses. They probably don't have foreigners walking by too often. There wasn't much traffic either but one guy on a small motorbike passed me, stopped a little up ahead, asked if I was going to the falls, and told me to get on when I said I was. Apparently he lived half-way there and could give me a ride that far. I do feel sorry for his bike though. That bike was not happy about having an extra passenger with a big backpack on a bumpy dirt road. But the guy was still more than happy to take me and when I got off the bike he gave me direction so I wouldn't get lost on the last section. Turns out there were only two more forks in the road, both with clear signs for the falls so it would have been almost impossible to get lost. Even though I had read online that there was a camp-site next to the falls, I was surprised to see that it was open and manned. I paid the fee (slightly higher than stated online, but only half the price of what the sign outside said), dumped my backpack, and went straight for the falls. I had made it! A spectacular waterfall hidden in the lush forest, a river with crystal clear water, the feeling of accomplishment, and I had it all to myself. The perfect place to relax and enjoy nature after a long day. I passed on the swim though as the water was freezing cold. The next day it was time to head back and I was, again, lucky with the rides. I haven't hitch-hiked much in my life, but this was the perfect movie-like moment. A traveller walking along a deserted road with the thumb up, one single pickup truck passes, stops, and the traveller jumps up on the cargo bed. It got me off the farm roads and on to the main road where I could find another ride for the last few kilometres. The second ride was different. The first thing the guy who picked me up did as he started driving was to show me that he had a gun. He told me to be careful as this is a dangerous country. Not sure what to think I joked that no, it's not that dangerous, it's not like Brazil. He laughed and agreed, and we chitchatted as well as we could with my extremely limited Spanish until we got to a point where he told me I could get a bus back to Asunción. He turned out to be the friendliest guy that I met in the country. Mission accomplished! I got to see the falls, met locals who possibly never saw a foreigner before, and had what was probably the most unique adventure during all my time in South America. The rewards of visiting the place that people tell you is not worth going to.