I was envious and conflicted. I was responsible for experiential and service learning at an international school in Asia and sent groups of students and teachers to Bhutan each year. On return, they boasted how their worldviews had changed after learning about Gross National Happiness (GNH) and hiking to Tiger’s Nest monastery through Bhutan’s pristine environment. I was envious because I thought I should have the opportunity to experience Bhutan rather than just sending others there. I was conflicted because Bhutan’s penal code includes discriminatory laws against same-sex relationships. How can a place synonymous with happiness criminalize people because of their sexual orientation and/or gender identity (SOGI)? Would I face any issues if my partner and I travelled there? Moreover, should we choose to visit a place hostile to Gay Lesbian Bisexual and Transgender (GLBT) people when we are able to travel elsewhere? After doing our research we were assured that the laws in Bhutan against GLBT people are not actively enforced. After debating the ethics of it, we decided to take the leap, and planned a three-night stay in Thimphu and Paro. Like my students, our itinerary included, amongst other things, tree planting, hiking to Tiger’s Nest monastery, and a discussion with an expert on GNH. Our guide Songay met us as we stepped out of Paro International Airport, smiling and dressed in a traditional gho. As you’ll discover if you go to Bhutan, all travel is organized through government-registered companies with limits placed on the number of visas issued annually. It’s not the type of place you can just show up and start poking around. However, the control measures don’t feel restrictive and are designed to reduce any potential negative impacts of tourism on Bhutan’s environment and culture. The hefty visa rate includes levies directed toward education, healthcare and environmental protection. Sceptics may question if the funds ever reach their intended goal, which may be impetus enough to visit the Land of the Thunder Dragon because nothing beats getting to see something with your own eyes. After a strenuous hike to Tiger’s Nest, the iconic Buddhist monastery perched on the side of a mountain, Songay safely delivered us to our meeting with the expert on GNH. The discussion revealed news of the King’s efforts to progressively increase democracy in Bhutan. We also learned that the pine trees we planted have helped Bhutan exceed its constitutional commitment to preserve over 60% of the country as forest. But the idea of Bhutan’s progress still seemed at odds with its discriminatory law against GLBT people even if, as we had read, it is not being enforced. The chance came for me to ask whether everyone has experienced GNH equally? “Are the current reforms going to address the legal discrimination against GLBT people?” We were elated to find out that parliament had recently debated the law and were taking steps to strike it from Bhutan’s penal code. I expressed my appreciation for the candid nature of our discussion and commended Bhutan for its efforts. My long-standing desire to visit Bhutan exceeded my expectations. I am no longer envious of my students and colleagues. My attachment to such a negative emotion has disappeared and been replaced with contentment and appreciation. I am grateful to better understand Bhutan through my personal experience. SOGI may impact your ability to travel. Awareness of local laws and customs is a first step in managing risk especially in places where discrimination is state sanctioned. The decision to travel is personal whether you acknowledge your presence in solidarity with locally marginalized people or are exploring the lived realities of a place as a GLBT traveller. Had we not travelled to Bhutan, I might be sceptical of GNH and unaware of the progress it is making on behalf of its GLBT people. Instead, I am encouraged that Bhutan is providing the world with a model of environmental stewardship and, through its measures of reform, a more equitable and inclusive GNH.