Grünau im Almtal

by Chloe Robinson (Australia)

A leap into the unknown Austria

Grünau im Almtal. Cold, dewy yet so captivating; the perfect pause between the opposing miseries of Summer and Autumn. We found ourselves here after striking conversation with another young traveller on a cramped bus in Slovenia; the name of the town lacked familiarity. The visions the young traveller spilled into our minds were enough for us to alter our plans and embark on the 8 hour train the next day. "Isolation, yet the intense feeling you may finally be at home." Her words stuck with me. The hours spilled one after another as we moved through the countryside towards the village of Grünau. Accommodation came easily, there was only one option; the Treehouse Backpackers. Gerhard, the host shortly contacted us. Our pick up from the station was arranged. The moment we stepped off the train, we were greeted by the complete serenity. No bustling cafes were in sight as we stepped onto the tiniest concrete slab, which was the train platform. Fresh air flooded into my lungs as we appreciated that moment. Then and there, it was just my travel buddy Chelsea and I. Everyone else on the train disembarked 70km ago in Salzburg. Gerhard arrived in a rusted, ram shackled ute. A friendly, sand coloured lab jumped out of the back and greeted us. Gerhard laughed, and "Welcome girls, and how did you find Austria's best kept secret?" The ride back to the hostel was something else. I struggle to find the words to explain that car ride, after 6 months of travel in the busiest locations, 6 months of aching for home yet the desperate longingness to keep traveling because in the back of my mind I knew there were places just like this… that I needed to see. As we travelled down gravel roads we passed the beautiful countryside, cradled between blankets of evergreen mountains. Gerhard didn't leave out a detail. The Treehouse Backpackers had been around in 1997, being the middle of spring Gerhard talked us through all the activities the treehouse organises for its guests. My mind was running wild, we arrived at the treehouse. A beautiful, wooden building standing high in the trees... bikes piled out of the shed, a crystal-clear lake flowed gently next to the treehouse. There were 5 guests in total at the treehouse, including Chelsea and I. The next four days were filled with hiking the Austrian alps, following creeks, swimming in lakes and trekking across endless planes of greenery. The outing that sticks with me the most is the bike ride. We borrowed bikes from the hostel along with an old map that didn't make sense to me. We road freely, in the middle of the rare bitumen roads, then frantically on the gravel roads. We screamed at the top of our lungs and listened. Our voices echoed on for what seemed like forever. It really felt like in that moment Chelsea and I were the only ones present in our little worlds. Finally, we arrived at Almsee, a picturesque lake, 11 kilometres south of Grunäu. We spent 8 hours by this lake. The feeling of being alone at a destination that felt so pure and untouched was over-whelming. The lake mirrored the towering mountains which curved around the lake. The reflection was so precise that after a lazy afternoon resting by the lake I stood up; for a moment I wasn't sure which was the reflection. The deepest blues, and most vivid greens. I will never forget the upmost feeling of pure freedom and a lust for life that embellished my soul and left me feeling recharged in the most authentic way. I wanted to share this place, but I also wanted it for myself… knowing there was a big chance I'd never have the opportunity to see this lake again I felt tears streaming down my face; not of sadness but it is hard to part with a feeling you have longed for, for so long. The ride back was sweet, but slow. Taking our time, we paused whenever we felt the urge. Time is something I have always struggled with, it goes on forever, yet it defines the way we live.