I Didn't Expect To Find Myself Standing in Hitler's Shoes

by Jeanine Consoli (United States of America)

I didn't expect to find Germany

One of my passions when visiting a country is immersing myself in the culture and traditions of every city. I also love to discover the history of each place. When I decided to visit Germany this past December, I designed my trip to allow time to tour a few Christmas markets, castles, art museums, and also important historical sites. I was excited about discovering Germany for the first time, and I looked forward to exploring the beautiful country via road and rail. Upon my arrival in Nuremberg, I opted to tour the Documentation Center, a modern glass and steel building that housed an exhibit entitled, Fascination and Terror. I knew from recommendations that this exhibit provided a compelling history lesson. The Congress Hall was to serve as a meeting center for the NSDAP. It marked the beginning of the rally grounds and built to hold 50,000 people. The architects, Ludwig and Franz Ruff designed the building to resemble the Colosseum in Rome. An audio guide directed me through the galleries starting with Hitler's rise to power. As I walked through each room, I learned details about the purpose and construction of the Rally Grounds, the development of the Congress Hall, and the history of the Nuremberg rallies. I discovered so much more about the events that transpired here over eighty years ago. Even though what I was learning was horrific, I felt compelled to wrap my head around it all. I could have ended my tour after the Documentation Center but chose to extend the tour walk around the rally grounds. The stunning parks and lakes just outside the old town provided the space for thousands to come and participate in planned events. Hitler's mission was to create a place where Germans could unite in solidarity, first to honor the military and fallen heroes and next to stir the emotions of the people. He wanted to show his might as a leader and fed crowds with a steady diet of propaganda. There were military parades, maneuvers, speeches, concerts, and folk-festivals that took place during the eight-day gathering. Over 500,000 participants from the SA and SS, the Reich Labor Service, the unified armed forces, and spectators came to the yearly reunions. The 4.25 square mile complex located in the southeast part of the city was carefully planned by Hitler, along with his favorite architect, Albert Speer. The complex included the Zeppelin Tribune designed by Speer to resemble the Pergamon Altar, from the ancient Greek city of Pergamon in Asia Minor. As I continued to the grounds, I began feeling overwhelmed. Part of me wanted to abandon the side-trip and head back to the joy and celebration of the Christmas Market, but I steeled myself. It was freezing outside, and the grey sky above cast a gloomy pall over the remnants of the eerie altar. Standing on the decaying remains of the podium where Hitler once stood left me chilled to the bone. I shuddered at the reminder of the events that occurred there. I was uncomfortable, but it was important to me that I spend time to see it for myself. Even though much of the original footprint was never completed or demolished after World War II, parts of the facility remained an unfortunate reminder to residents of Nuremberg. The people were torn, and many wanted it destroyed. In the 1970s, members of the city council agreed that it was essential to keep the remains of the Zeppelin Tribune to show the world and to "Never Forget." The Documentation Center and parts of Congress Hall, along with the Tribune and Zeppelin field, takes at least three hours to tour, but it is worth the trip. It is one thing to read about the rallies or see film clips of what occurred in Nuremberg, but it is life-changing to walk amongst the ruins. I wanted to bear witness, and even though I wanted to, I could not walk away.