I left my heart in Valparaiso

by Antek Benedyka (Australia)

A leap into the unknown Chile

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Before I got on the plane to travel to South America the first time, I felt lovesick, crazy, cuckoo. I was travelling into the unknown, to see a lover in Chile after a magical time together when we first met when he was travelling around Australia a year and a half before. We knew we had a connection, but would it be the same? Our lives on different continents meant that we had to be realistic about our affection for each other. Cue the theme music to Brokeback Mountain. As I tried to guess the weather for late August in the Andes with my would be romeo, I also tried (and failed) convince myself that i wasn't a character out of a really bad Rom-Com where they show up unexpected to meet a lost love, only to find out they are married with five kids, and leave with an empty heart and an international restraining order. The first leg of my visit was to go to Brazil for a German friend's wedding off the coast of Salvador, in the state of Bahia.Ten days later, I left the balmy coastal nights and torrential rain of island life behind me and headed to Santiago, Chile, where I got my bearings for the next chapter of my telenovella love story. Santiago is a thriving international city nestled in the Andes, and I filled my days wandering the streets on free walking tours, taking photos of the incredible street art and filling my stomach with empanadas and delicious Chilean wine. Climate change meant that the usual ski-season didn't ever really kick in, but I made the most of visiting the stunning vistas of the Cerro San Cristóbal, Cerro Santa Lucía - hills that allow you a bird's eye perspective of the city below and beyond into the Andes where the condors cruise through the mountain air. After ten days in the capital and many late nights out at the amazing bars and theatres, I braved it, and took the leap into the unknown to find my lover in his home town of Valparaiso. I took the bus for an hour and a half in the very comfortable salon cama seat, which allows you to lean back and enjoy the views of the vineyards that stretch between the valleys that connect the two cities. When i arrived, Elias (my very own Chilean Heath Ledger) met me at the Valparaiso metro stop with sparkling eyes and a disarming smile. My worries melted away as we hugged and laughed at how strange life can be when you take a chance for love. We walked back with my bags through the old port area, which is dotted with markets, street vendors and performance artists. We weaved our way through the streets to Anibal Pinto, a public meeting square, and made our way to his place, nestled in the district of Plaza Bismark, a cultural park located on the top of one of Valparaiso's 43 hills. Elias made me feel at home and i knew the story was just beginning as he suggested we head out to Mascara, a gay club located near Plaza Anibal Pinto to see a pop band that was touring from Santiago. Chileans really know how to party, and they start their evenings after 11pm, so I was nicely surprised as the dancefloor didn't really start pumping until well after midnight. Elias helped my future hangover along really well by ordering me drinks that were devilishly cheap and very strong! We made our way back to his place early in the morning, and the rest of that evening is firmly stored away in the adults only chapter of my diary! The following day, we headed off for the day, and went to the enormous flea markets of Feria Maturana, on Villa Alemana, near the waterfront, where I was introduced to the delicious Mote con Huesillo apricot nectar and barley drink. Over the following weeks, Elias led me through the streets of Valparasio, past the adorable street dogs, amazing street art and performers that make Valparaiso one of the most beautiful cities I have visited. Or maybe I am biased, as mi corazon lives there. Magic exists.