Despite sporting nearly every clothing item in our suitcases, the short stroll to the local couple-owned okonomiyaki restaurant in Gora, Hakone is cold enough to turn fingers purple. We’ve been told the establishment is open from 5.30-11pm...but go early, as the husband is a grumpy man prone to an early knock-off if he’s not feeling it that night. Google reviews agree with the less than positive evaluation of the gentleman’s mood but there’s no way we’d have known it as we enter the non-descript shop, a simple sign the only symbol of its existence. The couple’s warm greeting is in stark contrast to the air outside and we are quickly looked after. The surrounding neighbourhood is not exactly spoilt for dining options and, with barely sixteen seats, we’re surprised to find only two other diners in the compact eatery. We’re seated on bar stools directly before the grill, where we can warm our frozen extremities and watch the magic unfold. The restaurant is quaint and traditional, with a small tatami-matted zashiki area at the rear. A simple menu accompanies the humble atmosphere while the music…does not. Cardi B, Drake and Big Sean tunes flow, quite aggressively, between pints of Asahi beer and okonomiyaki steam. An interesting selection, no doubt, but one that somehow feels like an integral part of the ambience by night’s end. As we wait eagerly for our two pork okonomiyaki, another group of two enters. My limited Japanese knowledge picks up the owners turning them away; “gomennasai, no seats tonight”. It sounds sarcastic at first but the couple walks straight back out. Another glance around the barely quarter-full restaurant confirms our perplexion. No sooner had we noticed the small reserved signs, however, than a large and boisterous party of elderly locals burst through the entrance. They appear to be regulars, or just in particularly good spirits, joking with the husband about whether the small restaurant had enough beer for them all. Once seated, the group remains lively, drowning out the hip-hop melodies. Some of the elderly folk pull out cigarettes, rapidly puffing away. The smell of tobacco barely reaches us though, barred by the powerful scent of the spectacle before us. The couple work flawlessly in tune with one another. As the husband pours a pre-prepared bowl of cabbage, ginger and egg onto the grill, the wife cuts strips of pork, to perfectly cover the mixture. The process is precise; the couple have had years to refine their art, but it retains a homely feel, as though you’re watching your grandma whip up her signature dish. The mixture is fried slowly until a thick pancake gleams golden. Mayonnaise and a rich dark sauce are lathered on top in a dazzling spiral. Bonito flakes are sprinkled above, landing softly and dancing in the heat, completing the masterpiece. Presentation is modest, with just a plate and serving wedge, but the flavour is luxurious. The sour ginger and slight spice of wasabi mayonnaise work sublimely with the deep, sweet sauce and salty pork. We begin to feel full just halfway through the dish but there’s no way we’re leaving our plates anything less than bare tonight. As we eat, a few other hopeful groups of travellers enter the now-full restaurant. It’s only now that the potentially changeable mood of the husband shows. Google reviews, however, show only one side of the story. The husband explains that, sorry, we are full. The tourists immediately launch into an incessant barrage of ‘can we just wait?’, ‘isn’t there a seat inside for us to wait on?’. The husband, who has limited English, grows impatient quickly, dismissing the group with an abrupt ‘no’ and flick of the hand. Poor hospitality? Or entitled tourists? We count ourselves very lucky that we nabbed the last two remaining seats, as the husband returns happily to cooking and banter with the elderly group. The okonomiyaki restaurant stood out not for its incredible food or exciting atmosphere, but for its simplicity. A few menu items and a humble location, no faffing around with any excess. Just a couple doing what they know how to do best. It was just us, several other energetic guests and GUMMO, by 6ix9ine.