Into The Steps Of A King - The Rova Of Ambohimanga

by Narindra Randrianavony (Madagascar)

I didn't expect to find Madagascar

The Rova of Ambohimanga is one of the must-see historical sites to see while in Antananarivo. Situated just 21 km away from downtown, the Rova of Ambohimanga used to be the palace of the King Andrianampoinimerina in the late 18th century. This King is known to be the greatest King that Madagascar has ever known. Still, the history of Madagascar remains vague in the mind of many Malagasy people. For this reason, a friend of mine and I decided to plan a day trip to visit the Rova and walk into the steps of that famous King. The easiest way to reach the Rova is to rent a private car. However, we decided to take the public transportation instead (The Taxi-Be H). We met some traffic on the road, but we finally arrived after one hour and a half drive. Well, more or less... [Tips: If possible, avoid visiting the Rova during Malagasy Holidays. Less traffic!] We got out at the last bus stop, which was just right near the first gate of the Rova. ASCENDING THE HILL OF AMBOHIMANGA I have to say that we were quite lucky to have taken the bus. Indeed, if we have rented a private car, we wouldn’t even have thought to stop at the first gate of the Rova. Our driver would have probably left us upper in the hill, where you buy your ticket entrance. But here we are, passing through the first gate and starting to climb up the hill, like all the King’ visitors did 200 years ago. The main building is still about one kilometer uphill. However, the shade from big trees, the sound of local fountain and a gentle breeze made our hike an easy one, even pleasant. We met the sign of a second gate and finally we arrived Rova’s main building. AMBOHIMANGA, A PLACE OF WORSHIP AND CLEANSING As we arrived at the top of hill, we saw another gate. We paid our entrance fees and our guide – David – invited us to enter the inner court of the Rova. In most Rova of Madagascar, there should be an inner court where the King gathers his people to make a public announcement and where public festivals are celebrated. For the case of Ambohimanga, the “Fidasiana” played that role. One of the most important festivals celebrated there is the Malagasy New Year or the “Alahamady Be.” If you were Malagasy living between in the 18th – 19th century, the “Alahamady Be” is THE festival you don’t want to miss. David explained that during this festival, all the sins of the people would be imputed to the King. Then, the King would take a ritual bath and as a result, all the sins of his people would be cleansed. David then invited us to enter another gate. (Tips: Before entering the next gate, immerse yourself with the history by taking time to look at the outer wall made of sand, shells and egg whites. 16 million eggs were needed to build the Rova’s wall.) We then walk through a small path and enter a small door to visit the “Fahimasina.” It was the place where the zebu consecrated for sacrifice during the “Alahamady Be” / Meal fellowship is kept for one day and one night. After the King blessed the animal, it is considered as holy and ready to go in the “Fidasiana” for sacrifice. AMBOHIMANGA, DWELLING PLACE OF KINGS With a gesture of his hand, our guides invited us to follow him and see the Lapa, dwelling place of the King. The lapa Mahandrihono, was built in 1788 for the King. With only two doors and no windows, the room looks slightly dark. The place for sleeping, for receiving guests, and for cooking were all within that unique room. I wanted to take photos but David gently asked us not to. Anyway, we get out the lapa with our left foot first and backward. David told us that by doing so, we don’t give our back to the blessings that should be ours. We then head in to another door leading outside the Rova and David lead us to the sacred forest of the Rova…