Knowing An Ancestral Culture

by Roberto Azevedo Moreira dos Santos (Brazil)

A leap into the unknown Brazil

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Who has never thought of knowing more about their origins and cultural heritage? I was born in São Paulo, southeastern region and main economic center of Brazil, surrounded by business buildings and living with the typical bustle of an urban environment with a hot and humid climate. My parents were born in the state of Bahia, in the northeast of Brazil, known for its high temperatures during most of the year and for the beautiful tropical landscapes. Traveling and getting to know the region where my parents were born was an incredible experience that awakened a cultural look at the history of Brazil in the state with the largest number of black people. I had never visited the city before and my guide was my aunt, who took great pleasure and introduced me to Salvador's culture and customs. The weather hot was really my first surprise. The days I was in the city were with temperatures above 30ºC, with the sun always radiant, different from the humid climate of São Paulo, which is usually between 28ºC and it always rains. A tip I recommend for tourists who visit Bahia is to never forget the sunscreen, hat and sunglasses. The first place I visited as soon as I disembarked from the airport was Farol da Barra, located at Barra's Beach in Salvador. It was late afternoon and the sun was setting. I found it incredible to appreciate the arrival of the night on the beach on Monday. There were few people on the sand who wore light and comfortable clothes refreshing themselves with the famous “Geladinho”, a type of bagged fruit juice ice cream. My favorite was coconut.. The day after my arrival in the city I was able to learn more about the Bahian culture that has a lot of African and Portuguese influence, due to the first Portuguese ships to have landed in that region of the country. There are many Catholic churches with Baroque architecture and colonial-style houses that today have become, souvenir shops, cultural spaces and hotels around the city confirming the European influence that contributed to the cultural construction of the country, mixed with the gastronomy rich in inherited spices of the African people brought by the Portuguese during the colonial period. The tropical and cheerful climate defines the people who, today, preserve the customs brought by African descendants. The Pelourinho, the city's main historic center and meeting point for tourists from all over Brazil and the world, defines well the mixture of Europe and Africa, making the place magical. The colorful colonial houses fill our eyes and make us doubt where to visit first. There are so many shops, bars, restaurants and cultural spaces that it is difficult to decide. As I am a lover of the arts, I did not hesitate to start with museums and cultural centers and I was delighted to learn more about the contribution that Bahian artists of African descent brought to Brazilian culture. Still on the subject of the arts, my uncle invited me to visit Afoxé Filhos de Gandhi, a cultural and social institution that also integrates the city's carnival street blocks, holding events with mystical and religious characteristics with the intention of maintaining the memory of customs inherited from African people. This cultural heritage is seen in the clothing of the block's musicians, in the percussion instruments and in the songs with Yoruba dialects. Listening to the axé rhythm is contagious and makes your body move with the rhythm of the drums and agogôs. The religiosity of the people of Bahia, also caused me enormous admiration. Candomblé is an Afro-Brazilian religion, practiced by most Bahians, with African roots that worship the orixás (entities African deities) revered for songs, dances and offerings. There is a lot of poetry and art to the worship of Yoruba entities, as each orixá has special care, a specific color, an offering, a dance and a distinctive song. Knowing my parents' hometown, connected me with a part of Brazil that I didn't know and enchanted me by the diversity and cultural richness in gastronomy, fine arts and music.