Kyrgyzstan - my undiscovered home

by Begimai Alymbekova (Kyrgyzstan)

Making a local connection Kyrgyzstan

Please stay. I heard a stranger say. I was confused by his words... On a spring day, a couple of years ago me and my friends traveled to Altyn Arashan, a mountain valley near Issyk Kul lake, north east of Kyrgyzstan. It was a long road to get there, 6 hours by car from the capital Bishkek, we made it to Karakol and stayed the night in a yurt. The valley is known for its hot springs and its picturesque forest landscapes, that remind you of the Alps. Even though I am Kyrgyz, I had never heard of it before. My friends from Russia insisted on going. I dreaded the early wakeup call and the road to Altyn Arashan. We hadn't planned much in advance and decided on the spot, how to reach the valley by asking locals. We were told to leave our car behind; the valley is impossible to reach as the road is covered with rocks. 14 km seemed, however, to be a long hike, so we agreed to drive in an old rusty off-road vehicle with two local drivers. Something seemed odd at the beginning. I was both skeptical and slowly getting sick, as the road to the valley gets the best of you. For two hours it keeps on shaking. We kept making stops to get some fresh air. There are moments when you regret embarking on a journey and wish for your bed at home instead. This one was one of those days. But the promise of a gorgeous view with hot springs to jump in remained tempting. One of the drivers kept asking about my name and where I was from. I didn't mind sharing, but noticed right away that he was interested in me only. He wasn't young, not tall at all, with golden teeth. I remember him wearing a leather jacket. His Russian was with a heavy accent and he kept looking at me all the time. It was slowly getting annoying. He constantly asked if I had my seat belt on and asked if I was feeling ok. After two long hours of heavy shaking we finally made it to the valley. It was May and relatively cold up in the mountains. My friends ran for the hot springs but I made sure to get a walk, far away from our driver. I needed air. The valley is as beautiful as it is described. The forests on the side are spectacular, the river magnificent and yet calm, I heard of waterfalls nearby. Yet, my mind was filled with anxiety and exhaustion from the drive. Kyrgyzstan remains unknown territory for the most part of the world, as its beauty is untouched. The valleys near Issyk Kul are becoming favorite spots for hikers. And we witnessed many guests from all over the world at the hot springs. It becomes peaceful once you let the beauty in. The air cleanses you from within. I managed to calm down yet kept the ride back in mind. As soon as we got in the car ready for the drive back, my anxiety kicked back in. The driver was smiling at me, asking more questions, if I was married, just one of them. The drive down the valley is one for the nerves. You hit yourself on the elbow, as the 4x4 keeps driving like on a roller coaster. I felt overwhelmed. Traveling means experiencing not only bliss, but sometimes horror. The sun was getting down as we finally reached an asphalt road to Karakol. My clothes were dusty, I was tired and hungry at that point. The driver had a hard time saying goodbye to me. - Please stay. He said in Russian to me. I looked at him stunned. - You remind me of my daughter, he continued. - She has the same name as you. I haven't seen her since she was little. I have always wanted to show her Altyn Arashan but never got to. His friend explained to me, that he got divorced years ago, and his daughter left him with her mother. I smiled at him. And thanked him for the journey. I still think of him to this day.