Learning the art of ‘slumming it’

by Carole Bold (United Kingdom (Great Britain))

I didn't expect to find India

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Before visiting Mumbai, I questioned the ethics of slum tourism. Is witnessing poverty an acceptable ‘day out’? Booking a tour through an NGO that invests profits into the community quelled my concerns. In return for my intrusion, my tourist bucks would be used for education programmes. We’ve all heard the expression ‘slumming it’. I was braced to see what that meant in the reality of Dharavi - Asia’s biggest slum. With an astounding one million people living in 1.75km2, basic needs such as sanitation and clean water were scarce commodities. Crossing the bridge from Mahim Station, we entered Dharavi and were instantly thrown into the whirlwind of slum life. We reached a wide road, weaving our way between hundreds of hectic people, avoiding handcarts and motorbikes, frantically tooting their horns. The vivacious scene was similar to other parts of India I had visited and a stark contrast to the poverty and tent-like shelters that I had envisaged. Delving further into Dharavi, we visited the residential area and it was clear how wrong my image of slum houses had been. Though ramshackle, the homes within the slum are permanent constructions, built with concrete, corrugated metal and the occasional ornate tile embellishing an exterior wall. Most have a second-story – reached by ladder - with some families risking an illegal third-story to allow themselves rental income. We meandered through the narrow, maze-like lanes, hidden from the sunlight by overhanging roofs. Many homes were concealed behind a make-shift door of brightly patterned material, but a few were open to curious eyes. A cramped room held all the necessities for a family – a bedroom, kitchen and lounge in one. The little and large sandals lined up outside showed that house-proud locals kept their homes clean from the dirty streets. As a Western face, I expected people to ask me for money. In reality, residents are hardworking and pitied those who begged on the streets. Our guide, Nilesh, quoted his father: “every person in the world has one thing in common – 24 hours a day”. The people of Dharavi use their 24 hours wisely to work and gain a modest income to support their families. In the industrial section, men dismantled car parts on machinery with no safety equipment to protect from the flying sparks. Women, clothed in beautiful saris, crouched beside baskets of poppadoms drying in the sun. Men sat between mountains of denim, sewing jeans and nodding their heads to the Bollywood music on their stereo. These are just a few of Dharavi’s 10,000 businesses, with a massive annual turnover of $665m. In many ways, Dharavi was what I expected. There was rubbish strewn around the lanes, foul smells and the most polluted river I have seen. Only 1% of the population have their own toilet with others using community toilets or open land. Water is available for only a few hours a day. Though it was not a wealthy place, the people of Dharavi are rich in many ways. Living in such close quarters creates a strong sense of community. People are enterprising and proud of their wares, some products branded with the Dharavi name. Barefoot and bright-eyed children, running around with their friends, said hello and offered me high fives. People of all ages have a thirst for knowledge, eager to attend the NGO’s youth and school groups, working to improve their life. It is not an easy life, but the locals I encountered seemed content and appreciated what they had instead of yearning for what was missing. In contrast, in rich countries, we spend our energy comparing our achievements and possessions to others. We are so fortunate to have the wealth that we do and take basic things like having a toilet (or two) in our homes for granted. Touring the Dharavi slum gave me a new perspective. To appreciate what I have, instead of ruminating about what might be missing. To be so thankful for the cards that I have been dealt. When I returned home from India, I set up a monthly contribution to the NGO. Every time I see this payment leave my bank account, I will be reminded to practice the art of ‘slumming it’.