Lebanon - a journey in times of a revolution

by Hristo Kolev (Bulgaria)

A leap into the unknown Lebanon

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As the plane slowly descends over the azure water of the Mediterranean Sea, I feel that a slight anxiety starts to take hold of me, which upon landing in Beirut has already translated into a real fear. I try to suggest that the shaking is caused by the air conditioning in the passport control room… I was just in the middle of ,,thawra", or revolution - over 2.5 million Lebanese (out of a total of 4!) had blocked all roads in the country for over 3 weeks in protest against corruption and high taxes. Banks, universities, shops were closed. So, in that setting started the "Influence YOUth" project I was involved in as part of the Bulgarian group... Reading the news before my departure, my hair stood on the thought of the fearful pictures I was about to encounter. A taxi. Chaotic traffic. Tanks on the streets. Soldiers armed to the teeth. Welcome to the Middle East! Beirut's suburbs resemble unhealed wounds. Signs of the Civil War, which nearly ravaged the country at the end of the last century, are visible at every corner. Bullet holes in residential buildings remind us that the concept of "stability" doesn’t exist here. After a few minutes, I start to worry. An hour later, I'm scared. Then a ray of hope emerges. Or actually two of them. They are wearing branded clothes, their beards are trimmed in the latest fashion. Volunteers from the host organization. They offer to show us around the neighborhood. In this Beirut where the embassy categorically forbids us to walk? We go out with our hearts clenched, expecting shells and angry protesters. Instead, we get delicious cheese rolls, smiling grannies and hens. The hens are enjoying life in a beautiful courtyard near an apartment block. The grannies are sitting on a not so beautiful bench in front of the same building, smiling happily. Are they crazy? It's a revolution! It took me a few days to figure out the reason for the smiles. And a few more to start to timidly respond. And not to worry about the insistent invitations of random people on the streets to go to their homes to drink tea, see what beautiful gardens they have or take pictures against the backdrop of the view from their terraces. 18 official religions coexist here peacefully, like nowhere else in the world. That is why the current protests are so impressive - for the first time people of all religions came together for a common purpose. The most famous DJs gave concerts on the squares, chains like KFC gave out free food, telecommunication companies stopped their activities out of solidarity... Sunset over the Mediterranean sea. Seagulls trying to steal my tasty kibbeh. Random kids pointing at the stranger. Lebanon’s tranquility isn’t exactly what you may read in the media about this country. Or was that in the mountains? Or probably in the cobbled streets of Byblos, saturated with the aroma of Middle Eastern spices and romance? I don’t remember. The whole Lebanon feels like magic. I catch myself smiling. Like the kind grannies. I went there full of anxiety, only to return grateful for the incredible opportunity. Because there is only one country in the world where you can bathe in the warm sea and then take a lift to the ski resort parched at the top of the same city. Only here will a rich local man invite you to the beach in front of his house to eat freshly baked Arabic bread with his family. Only here will you visit the world's second-oldest city and the planet's eighth wonder. I met amazing people who loved their country and were more than proud to show it to me, encountered hospitality you barely find in Europe, where we often like to set boundaries between ourselves and others, fell in love with the history, nature and cuisine of this tiny but unique country. Wanna take my advice? Don’t approach the Middle East or any other place with prejudices, but boldly embark on the adventure and get the best out of every moment. But this is possible only if you make a real "leap" into the unknown. I did it. And you?