Zooming down the mountain to the coast from Ella’s highlands, cheeks flushed from heat and fear, my fingers tightly gripped the seat in front. The bus aggressively weaved around slower traffic on a steep cliff as a carsick child lost their lunch into a plastic bag. Tissamahara (Tissa) bound for a safari at Yala National Park. No set plan, but with guidebook in hand and a few guesthouses to check-out in mind, the enchanting landscape of tea fields quickly transitioned to green forest, then to sparse yellow grasslands. Cool mist turned to savannah sun. In the final stretch to Tissa, a jeep of young wide sunglasses wearing, jewelry toting Sri Lankans tailed the bus. The driver pulled over for a drop off, and men jumped onboard relentlessly marketing their safari and guesthouse to foreigners. I messaged a traveler friend who had raved of their Yala safari experience. They responded immediately. We found their guesthouse on foot. Got a room and secured seats on the jeep for safari the next morning. ` Chilled and half asleep, the open-air jeep lined up at the park entrance at 4:30 AM. Slowly the bright fruit bat filled night sky turned hazy pink and the park rangers unlocked the gates. We were off! Peacocks cooed and hornbills squawked as the jeep rolled its way through the pot holed dirt roads. The crisp misty air was pregnant with new earthy smells. Then we stopped. With faint sounds of bushes cracking, which quickly turned to thunder. A family of elephants emerged from the brush, crossing the road directly in front of us. Like a fly to a dung pile, jeep after jeep rushed from all corners of the national park and crammed in for a sight of the elephants. Distressed by the pandemonium of engines and noisy humans, the gentile giants retreated back into the brush. Upon returning from Yala National Park, we were asked to join the afternoon temple and wildlife tour. Most of the hotel guests were going. Delirious, we climbed into the Toyota and drove off with the Leopard Whisperer, as he directed his driver the unique days course. The ancient white Buddhist temples nestled into the rocks of the rural park road glowed in the afternoon sun. Stopping for wildlife, especially the rare bird species, for the chance to observe and photograph them in their natural habitat. Fate had led us to the local legend Mr. Tissa. I call him the “Leopard Whisperer” for his keen ability to find and safety observe the great leopard. Tall and thin with aviators, safari clothing and gold chains dangling. His mellow pensive presence turns to intense focus once stepping into the jeep. Arriving a large marsh surrounded by grazing buffalo and a sunbathing crocodile, exotic birds serenaded us as the pineapple curry, rice, dhal and papadom lunch tantalized the taste buds, with hints of coconut and chili. The final tour stop was a secluded pull-off where we devoured juicy watermelon as anticipation built. Dusk was approaching; the real safari was about to being. Pulling out of the vista point, there was a giant one tusked elephant. It didn't seem happy to see us. The story is it killed another tusker in the park last year, and in doing so lost a tusk! The aggressive male dominated the road. Adrenaline pumping, the jeep stayed just ahead of it. Racing the clock to the exit the entrance gate by dark, the engine was killed on down hill stretches. Cruising through the jungle in silence is how we came upon a leopard. Following it slightly off the road, the leopard came up to the jeep, squatting into the earth while licking the sand and starring intensely into our souls. Shaking and in awe, Mr. Tissa whispered: "He is showing us his power because we are in his territory." Never did I expect to have such intimate experiences with leopards and elephants on multiple occasions in Yala National Park. Mr. Tissa’s ‘Private Tour’ is the best-kept secret in Sri Lanka because being way from crowds with enforced silence exponentially increases the chance to find and spiritually connect with the rare and elusive leopard. And the experience is truly astonishing. Bon Voyage!