Mapu Lahual – Indigenous Protected Areas

by Nicolas Caram (Chile)

Making a local connection Chile

It had been a long day. We had been walking for over 6 hours, through sinuous narrow paths, still doubting if we had made the right decision turning right instead of left in the last junction, two hours ago. Or in the other 3 ones before. The road was not easy. Ups and downs were more frequent every time. But our thoughts were still hopeful of reaching Caleta Condor, probably the best hidden white-heaven beach you can find in Chile. If you can… Caleta Condor is right in the middle of the Indigenous Protected Areas Lafken Mapu Lahual. Two days walking South you will get to the small community of Manquemapu. Two days North, a slightly bigger town called Maicolpue. No roads in between, just the sound of the wild. For the whole week we traversed the 52 km trek that crosses the area from South to North (the recommended direction), we had no phone signal nor wifi. We were totally disconnected from the outside world. Javier Ancapan, our private guide, left us at a point of the road where we wouldn’t get lost, and should easily be able to find our way to Caleta Condor. We were hoping he was right. Javier is a member of the Indigenous Community of Manquemapu, one of the six communities of the williche indigenous people, that form and manage Mapu Lahual, as the area is better known. These communities are a day-walk from each other. They communicate through a messenger who has to walk from one community to the next, or with a radio they all turn on at 15:00 o’clock every day. Fifteen minutes after he left us, we entered an unusual type of forest. The trees we were seeing are called alerces, a native species which can only be found in Patagonia, however, they look very much like a sequoia. We were amazed by the shape and elegance of the tree. Apparently, they can live for hundreds of years. They were standing meters away from each other, like single pillars on a vast extension of land. It seemed as they stared at every person that passed by, through their solitude. Sadly, the alerces are now declared an endangered species, after an indiscriminate cutting down. Hence, in 1976 the State of Chile named it a Natural Monument, for its protection. Yet, an agreement was made with the williche people. Being an economic activity with which they have lived for generations, they are exceptionally allowed to continue making use of the trees that have already fallen down naturally. Dusk was falling. After 12 kilometers and blistered feet, we were finally arriving to what was our place to stay for the following two nights. As the path started to descend, paradise appeared in front of our eyes. We arrived at a beach with white sand and crystal clear water. The sun was still setting on the horizon. There it was, Caleta Condor, a narrow bay, surrounded by hills and deep forests. Ariel Millacheo was waiting for us, with a big hug, a warm meal and a cozy bed. As head of the community, he told us about the great job they had done to prepare the area for the arrival of tourists. After 10 years receiving support from the World Wild Fund (WWF), the group gained the skills to manage the tourism development of their territory. They had recently built a camping site and three cabins for people to stay. Additionally, they started offering different types of activities such as kayaking, fishing or traditional cooking. Furthermore, they recently formed a tourism agency, together with the other 5 communities, to promote and attract more tourists to have an authentic experience with the williche people in the South of Chile. Explorers who wish to adventure in the search of Caleta Condor should necessarily hire a local guide. Not only to avoid getting lost, but so that they can immerse themselves in the history, the culture, and to experience the essence of the place. Mapu Lahual is still a secret for travelers, not looking to be discovered.